Does this sound like a faulty ignition switch?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 103
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Does this sound like a faulty ignition switch? Ok, yesterday I pulled up to a light and when I was sitting there the car just quit running and wouldn't restart. It doesn't even crank when you try to start it. And when the key is in the on position, none of the lights on the dash illuminate like they used to. If you keep clicking it to the start position a bunch of times, sometimes it will fire up and run just fine for about a half second and then just quit.
I'm stumped and the car isn't here at the shop so I can't go dick with it. I checked all the battery, alt, and starter connections and they all seemed ok.
Anyone have any ideas?
I'm stumped and the car isn't here at the shop so I can't go dick with it. I checked all the battery, alt, and starter connections and they all seemed ok.
Anyone have any ideas?
Sounds like Ignition switch or VATS. Reason I say that is because one of the guys on the 93 board had his VATS die while he was driving and everything just shut off, no security light, no nothing.
Vehicle Anti Theft System I believe.
Here's the VATS Connector under the steering column:
http://shbox.com/1/air_bag_disc_2.jpg
Here's the VATS bypass diagram:
http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg
And here's how to get your key pellet resistor info:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key
As always, thanks to shoebox for the diagrams and photography.
Here's the VATS Connector under the steering column:
http://shbox.com/1/air_bag_disc_2.jpg
Here's the VATS bypass diagram:
http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg
And here's how to get your key pellet resistor info:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key
As always, thanks to shoebox for the diagrams and photography.
When you key the switch on and get no lights, do you get any fuel pump priming or anything. Reason I'm leaning towards VATS is because even with an ignition switch failure you should still get power to the dash and the little light show before you start the car.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Originally Posted by Fastbird93
When you key the switch on and get no lights, do you get any fuel pump priming or anything. Reason I'm leaning towards VATS is because even with an ignition switch failure you should still get power to the dash and the little light show before you start the car.
Just the opisit(sp). with VATS failures we get all the lights but no start. when the ignition fails many things can happen. I lost my First ignition switch at 36k miles
I am pretty sure the VATS sesor failing was due to dealer error fixing things LS1 Tech Stories
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Just the opisit(sp). with VATS failures we get all the lights but no start. when the ignition fails many things can happen. I lost my First ignition switch at 36k miles I am pretty sure the VATS sesor failing was due to dealer error fixing things
I am pretty sure the VATS sesor failing was due to dealer error fixing things However, and I've seen this first hand, if your VATS module (think of it as the brain) goes, you'll get nothing, nada. Case in point (and the car I'm talking about):
...if your VATS computer died, you wouldn't even get that much from it, your fuel pump wouldn't even prime...
My VATS system died on me twice, the first time (like xxxxxx said) the security light came on...the second...nada/nothing it just shut down the entire car AS I WAS DRIVING...during a tuning session with xxxxx of course...lol....
My VATS system died on me twice, the first time (like xxxxxx said) the security light came on...the second...nada/nothing it just shut down the entire car AS I WAS DRIVING...during a tuning session with xxxxx of course...lol....
Could be either or though because they're so similar. I'd say if you're narrowed the issue down to one of the two, start with the cheaper/easier to replace and go from there.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I can tell you first hand the VATS black box is not cheap NOR easy to replace....I have replaced it Only way I found to get it out is to completely remove and split the dash.
Only way I found to get it out is to completely remove and split the dash.
Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I can tell you first hand the VATS black box is not cheap NOR easy to replace....I have replaced it Only way I found to get it out is to completely remove and split the dash.
Only way I found to get it out is to completely remove and split the dash.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 103
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Ok, so we trailered the car up last night and dropped it off at the shop I work at. I checked and when the key is turned to the "On" position, there are no lights and no fuel pump prime. Ignition related things operate like normal - radio, turn signals, my hard-wired to ignition power fans. When turning the key to "Start" the lights on the dash illuminate but there is no crank.
So I guess it's time to pull the underdash panel and the column cover and atleast start from there? Or should I look into pricing on a new VATS module?
So I guess it's time to pull the underdash panel and the column cover and atleast start from there? Or should I look into pricing on a new VATS module?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 607
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From: Anna, OH
Let's keep it simple since I'm kinda confused by what it doesn and doesn't do: If the dash is totally dead (no lights at all) and silent, and there's no fuel pump whine, it's the ignition switch box on top of the column.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Originally Posted by LTSpeed
Let's keep it simple since I'm kinda confused by what it doesn and doesn't do: If the dash is totally dead (no lights at all) and silent, and there's no fuel pump whine, it's the ignition switch box on top of the column.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Originally Posted by LTSpeed
Let's keep it simple since I'm kinda confused by what it doesn and doesn't do: If the dash is totally dead (no lights at all) and silent, and there's no fuel pump whine, it's the ignition switch box on top of the column.
I am leaning this direction and may even guess the screws may have came loose
hey im also having an issue like this, but all of my bells and whistles work, i get fuel pump prime, but the car wont roll over...........ive checked all grounds, all fuses, and i ran fine until today, then i was changing the inline fuel pump and after start and shut off a few times the car just wouldnt turn over....... any help?????
Last edited by xxxtreme36; Jul 5, 2006 at 10:30 PM.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 607
Likes: 1
From: Anna, OH
Originally Posted by xxxtreme36
hey im also having an issue like this, but all of my bells and whistles work, i get fuel pump prime, but the car wont roll over...........ive checked all grounds, all fuses, and i ran fine until today, then i was changing the inline fuel pump and after start and **** off a few times the car just wouldnt roll over....... any help?????