dissapointing LT1 dyno #'s ... come and read
06-14-2006, 02:32 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by daniel6718
my 306 cammed lt1 with no supporting mods through an auto and 3200 3.73 dynoed 295! haha and runs 12.4 on the motor at about 3500 pounds
also daily driven
also daily driven
I am considering supporting mods for that cam, headers, valve springs, roller rockers etc.
So your telling me your running 12.40's with stock heads, rockers and stock exhaust manifolds????
06-14-2006, 03:26 PM
#23
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well, unfortunatly im not 21 so i cant skip on coronas at the bar.
but i guess it all makes sense. just a few more bucks = better performance
next time i dyno with the longtubes and everything fixed, im gonna ice the manifold too and see if i can get to 300. hopefully itll cool the manifold down just a few degrees to squeeze in that wee little bit more power
but i guess it all makes sense. just a few more bucks = better performance
next time i dyno with the longtubes and everything fixed, im gonna ice the manifold too and see if i can get to 300. hopefully itll cool the manifold down just a few degrees to squeeze in that wee little bit more power
06-14-2006, 03:28 PM
#24
Originally Posted by emerica4601
well, unfortunatly im not 21 so i cant skip on coronas at the bar.
but i guess it all makes sense. just a few more bucks = better performance
next time i dyno with the longtubes and everything fixed, im gonna ice the manifold too and see if i can get to 300. hopefully itll cool the manifold down just a few degrees to squeeze in that wee little bit more power
but i guess it all makes sense. just a few more bucks = better performance
next time i dyno with the longtubes and everything fixed, im gonna ice the manifold too and see if i can get to 300. hopefully itll cool the manifold down just a few degrees to squeeze in that wee little bit more power
06-14-2006, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 95formulalt1
whats the # for a bone stock LT1??
Generally speaking, take 15% off the crank horsepower number for a stick car.
Generally speaking, take 17% off the crank horsepower number for an automatic car.
Drivetrain loss will be increased by the following changes:
heavier wheels
gear swap to a higher gear (3.42 to 4.10)
heavier driveshaft
12 bolt or 9 inch swap
larger (heavier) mainshaft (T-56)
upgraded internal transmission components (A4)
Heavier crank pulley
supercharger
Last edited by NoMoreLS1; 06-15-2006 at 09:32 AM.
06-14-2006, 05:02 PM
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i wont embarrass myself with my dyno numbers.. they said 340 at the FLYWHEEL. course it was much, much less than that at the wheels.. i was honestly expecting 300, and i though i was being a bit modest.. and of course my disgusting track time.. thats another story... this cam better make me smile or her *** is gone.
06-14-2006, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by silverlt1ss
my buddy has a golen 383 with afr lt4 heads, midlenth's !cats! and borla m6 4:10's. he made 375 rwhp. he also has a stock TB he was real dissappointed
06-14-2006, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by emerica4601
well, unfortunatly im not 21 so i cant skip on coronas at the bar.
but i guess it all makes sense. just a few more bucks = better performance
next time i dyno with the longtubes and everything fixed, im gonna ice the manifold too and see if i can get to 300. hopefully itll cool the manifold down just a few degrees to squeeze in that wee little bit more power
but i guess it all makes sense. just a few more bucks = better performance
next time i dyno with the longtubes and everything fixed, im gonna ice the manifold too and see if i can get to 300. hopefully itll cool the manifold down just a few degrees to squeeze in that wee little bit more power
That manifold will be hot enough by the time it's at WOT. Unless you leave that bag of ice on it for hours, it won't be cool enought to make any real difference. Plus you don't drive the car around with a bag of ice on the intake manifold. Dyno the car as it would be driven.
No need for dyno tricks. 
06-14-2006, 05:45 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by NoMoreLS1
When tested on a DynoJet Chasis dyno...
Generally speaking, take 15% off the crank horsepower number for a stick car.
Generally speaking, take 17% off the crank horsepower number for a stick car.
Generally speaking, take 15% off the crank horsepower number for a stick car.
Generally speaking, take 17% off the crank horsepower number for a stick car.
06-14-2006, 09:19 PM
#35
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yeah, i guess dont go for the dyno tricks.
and this 300 rwhp is with not just from longtubes alone, read above and you'll see other things i gotta fix up that'll deff change my #'s
well, i got the email from TSP today, longtubes and ory should arrive this coming monday. I also just ordered a lt4 km from a gm site.
ill be sure to update later on my progress
Longtubes aren't going to gain you 35rwhp over shorties, mabey 10 on a bolton car if you're lucky.
well, i got the email from TSP today, longtubes and ory should arrive this coming monday. I also just ordered a lt4 km from a gm site.
ill be sure to update later on my progress
06-14-2006, 10:03 PM
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00 formula elesone, The LT1 was underated as is the ls1. Most Lt1's have around 300 - 310 at the crank, unless you have a dog or the car was beat to death.
06-15-2006, 12:01 AM
#39
Originally Posted by 396D1SS
I am considering supporting mods for that cam, headers, valve springs, roller rockers etc.
So your telling me your running 12.40's with stock heads, rockers and stock exhaust manifolds????
So your telling me your running 12.40's with stock heads, rockers and stock exhaust manifolds????
no i have exhaust intake cam and tune thats about it...1.6rr crane 10308
stock shortblock including timing set stock intake stock heads ect...