I was replacing the front seal on the timing chain cover and found out that my oil pan seal was tore to pieces too. . . .I currently have it loose and needed to know if I'm going to have to take out my transmission to pull it back. - Or if I can take one of the motor mounts off and jack the motor high enough to wiggle the pan out.

Thanks!

 

you can jack it up enough to remove it... its a Major PITA... but i did mine... since your there you might as well go ahead and spend the extra 30 bucks and pull a melling HV oil pump in it for reassurance... just in case... but yes it can be done without removing the tranny...

 

Jack up the engine, take off the motor mounts, take off the headers or manifolds, then drop the K member down a couple inches. That is the easiest way

 

Don't bother "upgrading" the pump.

 

It can be done without dropping the "K" member, but you might have to rotate the crankshaft so the first couple of throws are "up", and the pan can slip between the "K" member and engine. (Yes, you will still have to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine a little)

Don't forget to remove the "low oil" sending unit from the side of the pan..

 

Yeah a high volume will suck your pan dry. Stick with stock replacement for a stock pan.

 

Another vote for keeping the stock pump.

 

i dont have any problems with mine, considering that the LT1's came with HV pumps anyways... i just replaced it since i was there.... why do you agree not to change??? just outta curiousity...

 

i have heard of people pumping the pan dry especially on long straights. yet another vote for not changing to the higher volume pump

 

i dont have any problems with mine.... maybe its a freak thing..... mine has been in for over a year/35K miles... thats why i was curious.. never heard of that one before... do you think its due to the oil pan design??? i did have to install a trap door to insure that the oil would be near the pump under heavy braking... so i dont know about it with the door out...