what rockers and pushrods?
what rockers and pushrods? I'm very impateint with trying to get the car back together and I need to buy these two things.
for roller rockers (1.6) I hear Crane Golds and Comp magnums are good. Whats better NSA or SA? I have guideplates so doesnt that mean I need NSA ones?
Also what length/brand pushrod should I go with?
If anyone can give me a quick idea for a good combo I appreciate it, ready to buy
for roller rockers (1.6) I hear Crane Golds and Comp magnums are good. Whats better NSA or SA? I have guideplates so doesnt that mean I need NSA ones?
Also what length/brand pushrod should I go with?
If anyone can give me a quick idea for a good combo I appreciate it, ready to buy
I would try and get some scorpions RR they are a good brand and cheap too full roller.... In terms of pushrod just make sure they are 4130 chromoly steel i.e. Trickflow, Crane, Comp Cams. its your choice they all work good.
CC ProMag full rollers, they're the strongest ones out there and worth every penny. I would recommend running the NSA with GMPP guideplates. Don't use any other brand of guideplates unless you wanna get some adjustable ones and weld them up. With guideplates you're going to need some hardened pushrods, comp's rods would be fine, or get the chromemoly Hi-Tech rods if you plan on some really serious RPM or some extreme lobes. I'd also recommend changing your studs out for some 7/16" studs and buy the RR to match. Use ARP studs or the comp magnum studs, which are made by ARP also. Good luck. Oh, and make sure you change your springs as well.
NSA 1.6 promags all the way man.
Use 7/16" studs and comp magnum 1-peice pushrods
GMPP guideplates (Don't screw around here, you can't affod to have pushrods rubbing)
Stick with 1.6:1, 1.7 is just asking for trouble on a roller setup.
Tou running a stock cam or have you upgraded?
(This would be a good time to do it if the engine is apart anyhow)
Use 7/16" studs and comp magnum 1-peice pushrods
GMPP guideplates (Don't screw around here, you can't affod to have pushrods rubbing)
Stick with 1.6:1, 1.7 is just asking for trouble on a roller setup.
Tou running a stock cam or have you upgraded?
(This would be a good time to do it if the engine is apart anyhow)
Also, keep in mind if you opt for Titanium retainers, you'd better check for the underside of the rocker clearing the shoulders of the Titanium retainers. I had the GMHPP 1.6 Roller Rockers and used some T.R. and unaware, the underside of the rockers were actuating the valves by hitting the Retainers! I just thought it was 'close', not contact. At first the motor ran strong but bit by bit, it ran more and more erratic. By the time I pulled the valve covers and saw what was going on, it was too late. This condition, apparently, hammered the 'near' side of the L98 spring seats till they fragged from metal fatigue and the shards went into the gear mesh of the oil pump drive gear and the drive gear on the cam. No oil pump, no oil pressure, dead motor. 
I'm now told that to go with CC ProMags only and the problem is solved whether for now or the future. Strong, dependable and plenty of underside clearance, even for T.R. Also, definitely go with the GMPP guides. My bud put about 3 different guides on his motor before he got ones that worked correctly (not bending pushrods, coming off the rocker, etc) and the GMPP were the ones he ended up with.
Good news is that it's coming back from the dead as a 383 (formerly a 355) with a solid roller.
The cam is a "Cam-motion" custom grind solid roller, 242/252 .606/.606 108.9 LSA and some Crane solid roller lifters. That cam in a 383 made 457 rwhp with stock ported heads through a 6speed when the previous owner had it.
I'm now told that to go with CC ProMags only and the problem is solved whether for now or the future. Strong, dependable and plenty of underside clearance, even for T.R. Also, definitely go with the GMPP guides. My bud put about 3 different guides on his motor before he got ones that worked correctly (not bending pushrods, coming off the rocker, etc) and the GMPP were the ones he ended up with.Good news is that it's coming back from the dead as a 383 (formerly a 355) with a solid roller.
The cam is a "Cam-motion" custom grind solid roller, 242/252 .606/.606 108.9 LSA and some Crane solid roller lifters. That cam in a 383 made 457 rwhp with stock ported heads through a 6speed when the previous owner had it.
I already have the GMPP guideplates, beehive springs, big cam, ti retainers, .039" headgaskets, 7/16" ARP studs, p & p'd heads etc..
I am pretty set on ordering the comp pro mags 1.6 rr's from thunderracing-on sale for $270. I tried to get ahold of them like all day today but lines were busy....
As far as pushrods go many ppl are telling me my stock ones are hardened already and should be fine. Worst case scenario I bend one and replace them with the $35 hardened ones from thunderracing. I have a friend who ran a sprayed 383 on them...
I am pretty set on ordering the comp pro mags 1.6 rr's from thunderracing-on sale for $270. I tried to get ahold of them like all day today but lines were busy....
As far as pushrods go many ppl are telling me my stock ones are hardened already and should be fine. Worst case scenario I bend one and replace them with the $35 hardened ones from thunderracing. I have a friend who ran a sprayed 383 on them...
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Originally Posted by seawolf06
If you bend a pushrod, you're going to have to replace a lot more than just the pushrod, promise. Spend the money now and do it right.
