Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed my car is a bit of a turd and much more than 90mph. What mods help with high end power? Besides a new set of heads lol

Vendetta

The three letter word of God:


Cam.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Im gonna have to do some in-depth reading on cam's. Ive never really taken the time to try and understand all that mumbo-jumbo, its hard t remember it all. Is there much out there for fast cam only lt1's? I know that our heads are so shitty to begine with, I thought a bigger cam would only be starved by them.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

you would be suprised, a mild cam although wilder than your stocker will give you a very noticiable gain on stock heads, however you will see a bigger gain with a better flowing set of heads. you just need to match your cam to your stock heads. my advice is this,

Comp Cam:
Specs:
218in @ .050
224ex @ .050
495 in lift w/1.5
503 ex lift w/1.5
112 LSA
1.6 Roller rockers
58 MM TB (opt)
CAI (opt)

get a set of longtube headers and a good catback and you will see a phenomenal (sp?) gain over stock. this cam is not only streetable but it is very compatiable with your stock heads.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

I know this is going to sound absolutly retarded, but how would that cam loap? I love nothing more than the sound of a loapy cam. That being 112lsa it prolly wouldn't hit very hard corect?

Right now I have a homemade 1le elbow, Shorty headers, ORY, and a plated Borla cat back. Next on the list is CAI.

Also, when I get a cam ( say the one above ) that works good with stock heads, whats it going to do when I Feel like getting a set of heads down the road? Is it going to be useless with the better flowing heads, or will the cam ' come alive ' with the new heads? I want a cam that will work GREAT with stock heads, then someday when Im looking for a bit more power, and I have the money, I can throw a set of heads on it and get a bit more power out of it, keeping the same cam, see what Im saying?

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Looking at that cam a bit more, seems like it might work really good with my planned set up ( 150 wet shot ) as it is a bit bigger on the EX side. I was going to go with a hot cam, but idk now.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

it wont lope much but it will be noticable. especially if you take the plate out of the Borla. this cam will work good with a better flowing set of heads, it will probably come alive with a set of ported stockers. if you go any further than that you would need a cam with more duration on both sides to feed the cylnders with better flowing heads.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

mm, what performance differance would, say 110 lsa make? And that would make it lope more correct?

Vendetta

That's pretty radical. You'll need some heads to make full use of that kind of grind. 112/114 lsa will be fine for what you're looking for.

slowmofo

iTrader: (6)

Do you have to run Shortys? LT's would help you gain top end.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Ive done a bit more research, and found out that 110 lsa will give me more acceleration ( in theroy ) but will be harder on the valve train, and harder to tune. Number one is performance ( cam wise ) but sound is a close second to me, nothings better than a choppy idle imho

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (1)

sticking with a 112 will allow you to retain ease of driveability, good gas mileage and a good curve for the street.

Even the tiny LT4 hotcam has been known to make 350 rwhp with stock heads, bolt ons and a mail order tune. Our heads aren't so bad, especially ported!

Bolt on wise, getting LT headers, unplating your borla, getting a CAI (the $45 dollar ebay ones work GREAT) and a tune will all help your top end.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Alright, 112 it is I guess. This is all way out in the future, but I like having a game plan. So that cam is a mass produced cam right, or am I going to have to have that custom ground? What's my gas mileage going to do? Not that I care about it, just wondering how bad its gonna get, as I drive ~200 miles a week.

Also, what 'supporting' mods? Titanium retainers, new springs ( what kind ), push rods (again, what kind) do I need new lifters? What about 1.6RR's?

Thanks guys, you ****-in rock when it comes to someone needing info!

Z 2 8

I'm curious about that as well. I have an A4 LT1 with LT headers, matching Y-pipe, CAI, LT4 KM and a tune. I'm thinking about that cam now. How much Rwhp should it give me/us with my current mods?

JUICED96Z

I have a little red button to take care of that problem

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

this is a mass produced cam.


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

you should be ok with your stock rods, retainers, lifters and retainers. but thats a judgment call. hardened rods and 1.6 RR's would be a good idea. the operating range of this cam does not exceed your stock cam so you wont need stiffer springs to prevent valve float. your gas mileage should stay about the same. you may notice a little difference but i wouldnt count on it. now also if you get your 1.6 RR's your lift is going to increase a little.

with your current mods, a stall and gears would be your best bet before getting a cam. but say you get a stall, gears and this cam, you should be looking at around 325-350 RWHP from what ive seen in the past on other members cars.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Hehe.... I will be spraying eventually as well

Would I need new springs if I went with 1.6's?

I hear stock lt1 pushrods are pretty weak, is that true?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

they are weak, like i said, its a judgment call. it depends on your mileage and what not. no you shouldnt need new springs with 1.6's. however, its a judgment call.

Z 2 8

How would a stall and gears give me Rwhp? If i just got a cam now, wouldn't i make the same power? I know i would be faster with a stall and gears, but I don't see how that improves dyno numbers.

Also, i'm concerned about gears. If i get a 3:73, when will my car shift into OD? If i'm going to the 1/4 mile and i hit about 95 or so and shift into OD, my car would be slower and I would be better off having the stock 3:23's, correct? I know in the 1/4 now, i won't get out of third. Not even close.

Also, since all the shifts are shorter, won't the car be slower from a roll? For instance, when i floor my car now at 60 it goes into second and is a pretty good hit. If i do that with a 3:73, i'll probably downshift into 3rd and it would be slower...Third gear now is the weakest gear and if i choose to get into that gear sooner, i would think i would be slower up top...Does this make sense?

Honda Hunter

iTrader: (8)

Thought it was LS1