Ok I got datamaster to pull up two codes for why my service engine soon light is on. Code 15 and code 22. It is "coolant temp low" and "TPS low". Should I just replace both of those sensors (TPS and ECT sensor located on the waterpump) and reset the battery to see if the light goes off. Also since the car runs should I use datamaster to record while I am driving or just keep fixing the codes until the light goes off. I do have a small intake manifold leak that is leaking a small amount of oil on the back of the intake manifold where i used permatex on the part that isn't covered by the original gaskets. Is this something I need to fix before I can get the car to run better or is this small leak a possible cause as to why my ses light is on. I have a new gasket in the mail but since it is a LT4 manifold I think I am just going to order a ported LT1 intake manifold and hope that manifold fits better.

 

If there is something wrong with the ECT sensor then that would exlain the hesitation...is it running really rich?
The reason I ask is because when that sensor is malfunctioning the PCM reads the temp as -40 degrees so it really dumps the fuel to it.
When you run the scan see what temp the PCM is reading.
The intake leak would compound that as well.

Your TPS may just need adjusting.
Check this thread out on camaroz28.com.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=adjusting+TPS

 

No, don't just go arbitrarily replacing sensors. TPS low can just be a throttle adjustment.

Do you have an aftermarket throttle body? Sometimes you have to slot the sensor to dial in the TPS.

You can leave Datamaster running while the engine is off, key on, and you can open/close the throttle body, and watch the voltage and % that the PCM is reading for the throttle body. Closed (0%), it should be somewhere between .5 and .7 volts. What is it?

Wide open, it should be anywhere from high 3.x volts (3.8+) to 5 volts. Mine's just over 4.

Keep in mind a new engine will usually have different air requirements than the old. Last night I tweaked on my 94Z's new 383. I had to open up the throttle body blade a full turn of the set screw to get the idle air control counts down in to the 50's and keep the motor from stumbling. Idles much smoother now.

As for the coolant temperature, check the sensor and connector. It might be as simple as a bent pin. You can also watch Datamaster to see what the PCM thinks is coming from the coolant temp sensor.

 

This sounds stupid but worth a shot. Make sure the wire on the back of the alternator, the one thats attached by a nut, is on really tight. I had some VERY similar problems and it was because of that wire being loose. Although it was more sporadic, sometimes it would do it, sometimes not. Worth a try, check it out.