383,396 which one
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On The Tree
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From: palmerton pennsylvania
383,396 which one hey guys i was wondering which one is better the 396 or 383 in your opinion. i want to build one i want a streetable car it isnt a daily driver but i still want to be able to drive it to the track race it and drive it home im looking to hit low 12s high 11s i just bought a set of lt1 heads ported and polished will this be ok for both the 383 and 396? and any resources on this will be appreciated thanks
If you are building the block that is in the car now I would go with no bigger than a 383. Main reason being is that you could possibly get another rebuild out of it with a 396 setup if needed.
Originally Posted by Out1aw
If you are building the block that is in the car now I would go with no bigger than a 383. Main reason being is that you could possibly get another rebuild out of it with a 396 setup if needed.
I believe it the same bore just a longer stroke.. i say go with the 396 since u will have nicer powerband...... u can make the HP of a 383 on a stout 355 but u wont get the torque. a 396 or 408 is a mean broad powerband u can easily make 500 torque and 500 hp across the board. spend the extra $500 and get the 396 trust u wont be disappointed... I am thinking about doing a 396 for the trans am i just bought...
I saw 396, simply because it sounds meaner, plus how many guys have a 396 cubed LT1, I have seen way more 383s out there, plus there is no substitution for cubes, all else being equal cubes will always make more power
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Heads are where power is a 350 and a 383 with the same heads will often make the same peak HP just the 383 will make more average torque.
Think you will find most serious racers go with the 383 it is a great balance of extra stroke for torque and high rpm capability. On a boosted or sprayed engine it leaves more room for a stronger richpacage without going short on the rods. A 396 with long rods will put the pin up inot the ring package. I am not saying go with long rods because they are magically better, what they allow is a shorter piston for less weight, you have to balance that with strength though.
Personally I would ignore anyone who swear cubes are power IF and that is a BIG IF they have a car that puts down good power it is going to be a result of more checkbook than ability. The guys you want to pay attention to are the ones who seem to get a lot out of not much.
My vote is a 383 probably 6" rods to keep the pistons light if you insist on building a motor.
On the otherhand for you modest goals and low usage of the car a good heads and cam package will do in the power department. My car goes 12s in all the weather Wisconsin has thrown at it. The worst weather I ran in I was 150miles from home it was over 90degrees and they had to dry the track because it was raining when we got there, so humid just changing tires lead to sweat blindness. I was running 12.9 where two other heads/cam b-bodies were stuck in the high 13s both HOT cams. If my Caprice can run those numbers in that weather and is a daily driver you should have no problem reaching your goal on the stock shortblock too, mine has 100K on it and is holding up fine.
Think you will find most serious racers go with the 383 it is a great balance of extra stroke for torque and high rpm capability. On a boosted or sprayed engine it leaves more room for a stronger richpacage without going short on the rods. A 396 with long rods will put the pin up inot the ring package. I am not saying go with long rods because they are magically better, what they allow is a shorter piston for less weight, you have to balance that with strength though.
Personally I would ignore anyone who swear cubes are power IF and that is a BIG IF they have a car that puts down good power it is going to be a result of more checkbook than ability. The guys you want to pay attention to are the ones who seem to get a lot out of not much.
My vote is a 383 probably 6" rods to keep the pistons light if you insist on building a motor.
On the otherhand for you modest goals and low usage of the car a good heads and cam package will do in the power department. My car goes 12s in all the weather Wisconsin has thrown at it. The worst weather I ran in I was 150miles from home it was over 90degrees and they had to dry the track because it was raining when we got there, so humid just changing tires lead to sweat blindness. I was running 12.9 where two other heads/cam b-bodies were stuck in the high 13s both HOT cams. If my Caprice can run those numbers in that weather and is a daily driver you should have no problem reaching your goal on the stock shortblock too, mine has 100K on it and is holding up fine.
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From: CHITOWN
Theres a guy doing low 12s on a 396! Horriable setup the motor is chocking.
You better get some very nice after market heads and let that motor really shine, 396s should never be half assed.
Or have the stock heads ported very well to your setup etc
You better get some very nice after market heads and let that motor really shine, 396s should never be half assed.
Or have the stock heads ported very well to your setup etc
Last edited by slick1851; Sep 2, 2006 at 02:13 PM.
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From: palmerton pennsylvania
i think what im gonna do is buy golens 396 short block and put the heads and cam on that for 3799 i dont think i can beat it does anybody have any experience with them if sowould he stock heads ported and polished be enough for that motor?
Golen's shortblocks are fine, avoid their longblocks though the heads are a joke.
Ported stockers CAN support a 396 but it completely depends on the quality of the portwork. If you got good heads it will be good if you got something hacked the motor will not perform.
Ported stockers CAN support a 396 but it completely depends on the quality of the portwork. If you got good heads it will be good if you got something hacked the motor will not perform.
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From: palmerton pennsylvania
yeah the guy that did the portwork on these paticular heads is pretty well known around my area he does good porting and polishing work so i dont think that will be a problem hes also selling me a cam to match the heads when i get them monday ill have to post the specs thanks for the info
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
The biggest problem with going bigger is getting heads that REALLY flow enough to feed the cubes 
It takes more then CFM numbers to feed a bigger engine. This is the main reason I went with a 380
It takes more then CFM numbers to feed a bigger engine. This is the main reason I went with a 380
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From: palmerton pennsylvania
yes this is true but i could always get bigger heads down the road am i right? these heads were on a 383 setup that the dude is breakingdown and getting rid of the whole car i believe the setup ran low 12s with street tires but im not positive on that one
You can always change heads but what a PITA. Do it right the first time. I ran low 12's with my damn tailshaft busted about 1/2 the way down, a shitty stall with about a 1800 rpm launch.
It depends on times/power goals and budget.
Becuase with more cubes you need more head (lol). So a 396 can end up costing a lot more than some people think.
The "easiest" (notice the quotes) is forced induction. Now the reason I put quote on the "easiest" is because that will always end up being a lot more of a pain in the *** then you intitaly expect.
Becuase with more cubes you need more head (lol). So a 396 can end up costing a lot more than some people think.
The "easiest" (notice the quotes) is forced induction. Now the reason I put quote on the "easiest" is because that will always end up being a lot more of a pain in the *** then you intitaly expect.