new to these cars
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
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new to these cars ok my wife is getting me a 96 firebird formula. i do not know anything about these cars. i have always had ricers and the grew up and got into mustangs. curently i have a 89 mustang with a fully built 460 on 300 shot of nitrous. anyways i want to know what i can do to this car to get better performance out of it. the car has 140,000 miles and got a good deal. a dealer reposed it from a older guy and theyre letting me pay off the amount owed and keep it. my wife works there. i have a nx kit that will be going in as soon as i get some info on it. i dont want to do any head or motor work yet. ill probably just buy a rebuild kit and do that but thats it. what do you guys recomend me to do, to get the car to atleast 300rwhp n/a (without the nitrous) thanks in advance for your help.
**edit i posted pics of the car. edit**
**edit i posted pics of the car. edit**
Last edited by mustanggtandgsxr; Sep 2, 2006 at 03:10 PM.
Just take care of the intake and exhaust sides well and then get a tune done. I'd do the typical mods, Cold Air, Cat-Back, Long Tube headers and Y if you can...and then have it tuned. As they said, it wont take much to make 300hp. Enjoy. 
Thread Starter
Teching In
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its a m6 white with t-tops. im planning on doing a cai,exhaust with lt's, and rear end. i have a set of 4.10s at the house that i took of my mustang will these fit into the formula? and you think that spraying the car with alot of miles(140,000) is not going to be good? thanks for your help.
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From: In a house
Intake
*CAI/new ram air box-SLP twin filter it works wonders, dunno about ram air boxes
*Intake elbow-trick flow elbow, smooths out incoming air
*airfoil-smooths out air into tb
*52mm TB-the LT1 intake bore is 52mm (stock TB is only 48 mm)
Cooling
*160 thermostat-cooler air into engine/engine runs cooler
*manaul fan switch-cools engine on demand
Exhaust
*catback-slp or hooker they are both very good, if you can find a gmmg exhaust for cheap IE 300 and under dont hesitate to buy it
*Headers/y pipe-Pacesetter LTs with Y pipe amazing price and great gains and sound
*cut out-self explanitory
Drivetrain
*gears-4.10s all you need (need to buy gm gears)
*short throw shifter
*aluminum DS
Misc
*TB Bypass-100%*free (no gain but horsepower is not taken away after coolant warms up, keeps about 6rwhp)
*weight reduction-spare tire/jack*36 lbs*, whatever else you wanna do its up to you
*syntehtic motor oil/rear end fluid
*remove cat/cats if you can get away with it
*pullies-frees up some ponies
a little added something Compstall dynoed:
298hp/323tq to the wheels (275/325 flywheel stock)
all he had was.........
CAI
Exhaust(No headers)
1.6 RR's(doesnt do much on stock motor)
Elect. Water pump
with a 94 Z28 M6
you have 285/325 (305/335? if you have WS6 ram air package) both are flywheel numbers
so your already well on your way no matter what, and if you go with the above mods whichever brand/mod version you go with you should exceed 300rwhp very easy
but first and foremost as with a 140k mile car, unless you find out otherwise do a tune up as you should already know that: oil/oil filter/plugs/wires/coil/probably might want to replace the opti/check belts/check fluids/check hoses/run fuel system cleaner/etc
*CAI/new ram air box-SLP twin filter it works wonders, dunno about ram air boxes
*Intake elbow-trick flow elbow, smooths out incoming air
*airfoil-smooths out air into tb
*52mm TB-the LT1 intake bore is 52mm (stock TB is only 48 mm)
Cooling
*160 thermostat-cooler air into engine/engine runs cooler
*manaul fan switch-cools engine on demand
Exhaust
*catback-slp or hooker they are both very good, if you can find a gmmg exhaust for cheap IE 300 and under dont hesitate to buy it
*Headers/y pipe-Pacesetter LTs with Y pipe amazing price and great gains and sound
*cut out-self explanitory
Drivetrain
*gears-4.10s all you need (need to buy gm gears)
*short throw shifter
*aluminum DS
Misc
*TB Bypass-100%*free (no gain but horsepower is not taken away after coolant warms up, keeps about 6rwhp)
*weight reduction-spare tire/jack*36 lbs*, whatever else you wanna do its up to you
*syntehtic motor oil/rear end fluid
*remove cat/cats if you can get away with it
*pullies-frees up some ponies
a little added something Compstall dynoed:
298hp/323tq to the wheels (275/325 flywheel stock)
all he had was.........
CAI
Exhaust(No headers)
1.6 RR's(doesnt do much on stock motor)
Elect. Water pump
with a 94 Z28 M6
you have 285/325 (305/335? if you have WS6 ram air package) both are flywheel numbers
so your already well on your way no matter what, and if you go with the above mods whichever brand/mod version you go with you should exceed 300rwhp very easy
but first and foremost as with a 140k mile car, unless you find out otherwise do a tune up as you should already know that: oil/oil filter/plugs/wires/coil/probably might want to replace the opti/check belts/check fluids/check hoses/run fuel system cleaner/etc
Last edited by Bowtie Boy; Sep 2, 2006 at 10:54 AM.
Originally Posted by mustanggtandgsxr
its a m6 white with t-tops. im planning on doing a cai,exhaust with lt's, and rear end. i have a set of 4.10s at the house that i took of my mustang will these fit into the formula? and you think that spraying the car with alot of miles(140,000) is not going to be good? thanks for your help.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
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cool thanks guys very helpful info. so right now i will be shopping for a cai, full exhaust(no cats im in florida so i can get away with it), short shifter, gm gears, and a tune. where should i look for these parts at? is there a website you guys recomend? i have a nx kit single shark nozzle. will that work ok or do i have to get the plate or get 2 nozzles, one for each side? and i have draglite wheels with dr's 28x10.50x15 that i had on my 03 mustang gt. will these work with the formula. you think i will be in the 12s with the stuff i mention im goint to buy? high or low 12s? thanks for your help i have never gotten responses in the mustang forums like i do here. i mention to the forums my wife was getting me a formula firebird and they all freaked out. so thanks alot
oh and as soon as i get the car i will be doing a full tune up and put royal purple all around. do the tb bypass, manual fan switch
oh and as soon as i get the car i will be doing a full tune up and put royal purple all around. do the tb bypass, manual fan switch
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Resident
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From: In a house
**PRE NOTE** I am NOT endorsing Neweraperformance they just have really good prices!!**
I tried to find the best deals, I know NEP cant be beat, as for gears you may wanna shop around thats best I could do.
Need to copy and paste most of these links they dont show up as link for some reason.
*Headers/Ypipe- http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=pshlt1|0
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=pslt1y|0
The best deal on the internet right now! The cheapest for pacesetter uncoated FL headers,and y pipe plus FREE shipping!
*cat back- http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=3103931039a|0
It says for 98-02 but you can buy a kit for 93-97 (new era carries it), this exhaust retails on SLP for 432!+ shipping this site is only 377 with FREE shipping!
*gears-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
probably can find cheaper somewhere else, but thats the cheapest for the best gears ive found so far
*shifter
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=bm45052|0
B&M ripper shifter short throw
*Tune*(get it last)
www.madz28.com or www.pcmforlesstuning.com (I think i am going with mad)
As for the DRs they should work as long as same bolt pattern, these cars will burn tire easy on a launch especially if you wanna launch it with a m6 with 4.10s
Should def see 12s with the mods, drs, and if your a good shifter
I tried to find the best deals, I know NEP cant be beat, as for gears you may wanna shop around thats best I could do.
Need to copy and paste most of these links they dont show up as link for some reason.
*Headers/Ypipe- http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=pshlt1|0
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=pslt1y|0
The best deal on the internet right now! The cheapest for pacesetter uncoated FL headers,and y pipe plus FREE shipping!
*cat back- http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=3103931039a|0
It says for 98-02 but you can buy a kit for 93-97 (new era carries it), this exhaust retails on SLP for 432!+ shipping this site is only 377 with FREE shipping!
*gears-
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
probably can find cheaper somewhere else, but thats the cheapest for the best gears ive found so far
*shifter
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=bm45052|0
B&M ripper shifter short throw
*Tune*(get it last)
www.madz28.com or www.pcmforlesstuning.com (I think i am going with mad)
As for the DRs they should work as long as same bolt pattern, these cars will burn tire easy on a launch especially if you wanna launch it with a m6 with 4.10s
Should def see 12s with the mods, drs, and if your a good shifter
Last edited by Bowtie Boy; Sep 2, 2006 at 01:50 PM.
TECH Junkie
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From: CHITOWN
Bowtie boy thats cool you took time to answer alot for this guy.....
Get a brand new optispark, its going to go out soon if it hasnt already, do the LT4 KM
You can get a Mail order tune thats pretty good, I would suggest getting a new clutch in the car..
Get a brand new optispark, its going to go out soon if it hasnt already, do the LT4 KM
You can get a Mail order tune thats pretty good, I would suggest getting a new clutch in the car..
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 474
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From: MI
Skip the rebuild. Do a "autorx" treatment instead. much cheaper, and has been know to improve Compression 5-15 psi. MANY followers of ths stuff over at Impalassforum. I have no hard data, but I know that my cadillac(94 Iron Headed LT1) ran a ton better afterwards. I gained the same amount of pull from the autorx as I did from a full dual 2.5" catback. (seamed like anyways) The car had 140k on it. these engines are known for going 250k+ in caprice cruisers before they die. Normally a spun bearing kills them, and they still have little to NO bore wear. fix the spun bearing and send them back out with all re conditioned stock parts and they are good to go. Anyways. I think these guys gave you some great ideas! 
the only thing I will add, is that I would be careful with that weak rear end and a manual and slicks(or DR's) But thats just me. I'm just glad my car has an 8.5" 10 bolt.
the only thing I will add, is that I would be careful with that weak rear end and a manual and slicks(or DR's) But thats just me. I'm just glad my car has an 8.5" 10 bolt.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 474
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From: MI
AutoRX is an engine cleaner that works very effectivly. It's different than a motor flush, in that it doesn't thin the oil out, or produce a "sudden" release of sludge. It's not a solvent, it's a fatty acid. so it slowly breaks the sludge down on a mocule level... I think. It works over a 1,500 mile period, and slowly lossens junk up and deposits it in the filter. When I got my caddy, the insides of the valve covers were AWFUL. There was a 1/16 of an inch of sludge over everything. I manually pulled as much out as I could, but there was still alot of junk. ISSF told me about this stuff, and I gave it a shot. Unbelieveable! You can seriously feel the difference. The biggest gain is from it loosening crap around the rings, and letting them move more freely. Anyways, I'm sold on it, and will use it in every car I give a damn about. At 25-20(depends on how many you buy) a bottle, it's not cheap. but it IS effective. Anyways.
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
I have been searching for a safe engine cleaner/fricion reducer for years, and I finally found it. Screw the rest of the crap: Slick 50, motor flush, compression restore... they are all garbage.
I'm not a salesman for them or anything. I just love the ****.
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
I have been searching for a safe engine cleaner/fricion reducer for years, and I finally found it. Screw the rest of the crap: Slick 50, motor flush, compression restore... they are all garbage.
I'm not a salesman for them or anything. I just love the ****.
Last edited by MrCadillac; Sep 2, 2006 at 07:11 PM. Reason: added more info, and site.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 22
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lol thanks man. so i just put tjis in once or how manytimes? and so i do an oil change after 1500 miles or just like i would normally? thaks
**edit- never mind i went to the website and read the how to part thanks
**edit- never mind i went to the website and read the how to part thanks
Last edited by mustanggtandgsxr; Sep 2, 2006 at 07:56 PM.
I noticed that no one said anything about the water pump. If you change the opti out you might as well change to an electric water pump. b/c the factory water pumps are prone to failure. when they drop bearings it starts to leak when it leaks, it leaks directly onto the opti causing even more damage than a leaking water pump. CSR and now Summit make some good ones. there around $160 but you have to grind a little on the housing to make them fit. Meizere make a direct bolt up it cost $199. But I would go with either Meizere or CSR just b/c there proven. Havent heard of anyone running a Summit.
Also they say an electric water pumps will give you between 10-20 hp dont look for that. but it does free up a few extra ponies.
Also they say an electric water pumps will give you between 10-20 hp dont look for that. but it does free up a few extra ponies.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
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the water pump and all of the cooling system was replaced less than 6 months ago. 3 days after the guy bought it the water pump went bad and the dealer fixed alot of stuff on it. so do you think i should still chage to an electric pump.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 474
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From: MI
DO NOT use an electric water pump on a daily driver unless you carry a back up or have the tools and stuff to put the cam driven one when it fails. not if, WHEN. They have a life, which could be 6 months, or 4 years, or longer. But I've heard many a story about an electric failing and causing problems, like stranding people, or even worse over heated blocks. Now thats not to say it will happen to you, but if the cam water pump is working fine and not leaking... LEAVE IT BE. spend the money elsewhere for power. After you have a bunch of bolt ons, and a cam, and head work, and you want more. sure, do an electric water pump. Just don't be completely surprised when your 200 miles from home, your temp gauge hits the red and continues to climb.
All just the way I look at, of coarse.
All just the way I look at, of coarse.