Please put me out of my misory.
Please put me out of my misory. Ok, I my rebuilding my LT1. The problem is that its my first and I think I am making newbe mistakes.
I tore the motor apart, it looked like it was in good condtion(for 120k miles). So I told my machinist to look it over and to give me a estimate on what needed to be done. He told me it needed a hone and ground .010 on the rod and crank journals, so I told him to go ahead with the machining. Now I want to build it for 400rwhp NA at 6200rpms, so that means the rod and main bolts should be replaced with ARP bolts. Well then I find out that I would have to rebuild the rods to put the new bolts in. To rebuild mine was going to cost more then buying set from him with ARP bolts, so I went ahead and bought them from him. Now here is my problem, they are the older style connecting rods. Will the these be able to handle the horsepower and rpm?
Here is how I am building my short block, tell me if there is anything wrong with it.
Stock LT1 block honed
ARP main cap stud kit
Stock LT1 crank ground .010, .010
Older 350 style connecting rods balanced and rebuilt with ARP bolts
New cam bearing(I am not sure what brand)
Stock LT1 pistons
Hasting piston rings
ACL main and rod bearing
Melling oil pump
ARP oil pump driveshaft
I think that covers it. I am really worried that I am making bad decisions and that this engine is going to blow after 1k miles. Please put me at peace of mind.
Thanks
I tore the motor apart, it looked like it was in good condtion(for 120k miles). So I told my machinist to look it over and to give me a estimate on what needed to be done. He told me it needed a hone and ground .010 on the rod and crank journals, so I told him to go ahead with the machining. Now I want to build it for 400rwhp NA at 6200rpms, so that means the rod and main bolts should be replaced with ARP bolts. Well then I find out that I would have to rebuild the rods to put the new bolts in. To rebuild mine was going to cost more then buying set from him with ARP bolts, so I went ahead and bought them from him. Now here is my problem, they are the older style connecting rods. Will the these be able to handle the horsepower and rpm?
Here is how I am building my short block, tell me if there is anything wrong with it.
Stock LT1 block honed
ARP main cap stud kit
Stock LT1 crank ground .010, .010
Older 350 style connecting rods balanced and rebuilt with ARP bolts
New cam bearing(I am not sure what brand)
Stock LT1 pistons
Hasting piston rings
ACL main and rod bearing
Melling oil pump
ARP oil pump driveshaft
I think that covers it. I am really worried that I am making bad decisions and that this engine is going to blow after 1k miles. Please put me at peace of mind.
Thanks
you will be fine with his rods,all the other parts you have listed are ok,what cam will you be going with?i know about the heads they are on their way BTW!dont skimp on the timing chain get an lt4 set if its in the budget it adds up really fast.
have you or someone you know done business with the machinist before?
i see nothing wrong with your build,as it will be a little bit better than stock!
have you or someone you know done business with the machinist before?
i see nothing wrong with your build,as it will be a little bit better than stock!
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Thanks Guys, I'm starting to feel better now. 
One more thing I was looking at the engine block today and there seems to be some score marks on the cylinder walls...will I be ok or should I take it back to the machinist and bore it out?
One more thing I was looking at the engine block today and there seems to be some score marks on the cylinder walls...will I be ok or should I take it back to the machinist and bore it out?
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Verdad Gallardo he should have checked those cyl. walls!!!!!!!!!at the very least they should have been honed,recheck the bore!!!!!!i would definately bore it .030 and get a set of forged pistons at this point a set of speed pro 2256s would be an economical solution.......As i asked before have you used this machine shop before or anyone you know?can you post a few pics of the block where you have questioned areas,that may help a bit?
the cylinders don't have a good, approx. 60 degree crosshatch? take that block back and make him fix it. thats bullshit. now is the time to get some better forged pistons. that way, he can fit the pistons to the bores and maybe re-balance the assembly for you. let him know what rings you plan on using so he can use the right grit on the final honing.
you will have them this up coming week..
i do not like the vertical scratches in the cyl.wall i think it should be bored .030 or if he can hone it good enough to put std.bore forged pistons in that would be cool also.it all depends on how the cyl. mics out
i do not like the vertical scratches in the cyl.wall i think it should be bored .030 or if he can hone it good enough to put std.bore forged pistons in that would be cool also.it all depends on how the cyl. mics out
Stock hypereutectic pistons are fine. Only reason to go forged would be if you are
A. Planning to use a lot of nitrous ie. 150+ shot
B. Plan to add a large amount of boost
C. You got that much extra money laying around and you don't know what to do with it.
A. Planning to use a lot of nitrous ie. 150+ shot
B. Plan to add a large amount of boost
C. You got that much extra money laying around and you don't know what to do with it.
Update, I called my machinist today and talked to him about my problem. I don't want to have to type out the hole conversation. So he pretty much said he saw the score marks and that I told him to only hone it out, which I did not. I did say that I thought it only needs just a hone because the cylinders looked so good. He knows this is my first engine, I thought he would help me out.
So anyways...he said to clean it up it would need to be bored at least .020 over. And it would cost $250 without new pistons, because he would have to remove/reinstall the freeze plugs and cam bearing.
Do you guys think he's taking advantage of me, I'm 17.
So anyways...he said to clean it up it would need to be bored at least .020 over. And it would cost $250 without new pistons, because he would have to remove/reinstall the freeze plugs and cam bearing.
Do you guys think he's taking advantage of me, I'm 17.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
those pics look fine to me,for a decent street motor. If this was an all out race motor,or if you had an unlimited budget id go ahead and bore it. to be honest ive been spraying 175-200hp of nitrous and my cylinders looked about the same as your,and im also still on the stock pistons.it uses no oil.