Please put me out of my misory.
09-11-2006, 03:29 PM
#21
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The fine scratched do not look that bad to me from the pics. I have put engines back together and the block looked worst than that and it run great. I also recommend that you run a high quality ring and you should not have a problem. At 250.00 i think that is alot since my local machince charges 25.00 for the first hole and 9.00 for the rest.
As far as the forged pistons I don't see spending the extra money if you are going to leave it naturally aspirated. Forged are noisey until they get hot anyway. I got a friend that had a 95 Z28 and sprayed 150+ NOS on it at leasts 3 weekends of every month. It was totalled at about 120,000 miles and it was sprayed since about 30,000 if I recall. His engine never burned any oil and ran great.
As far as the forged pistons I don't see spending the extra money if you are going to leave it naturally aspirated. Forged are noisey until they get hot anyway. I got a friend that had a 95 Z28 and sprayed 150+ NOS on it at leasts 3 weekends of every month. It was totalled at about 120,000 miles and it was sprayed since about 30,000 if I recall. His engine never burned any oil and ran great.
09-11-2006, 03:33 PM
#22
thats fine and dandy however what or who's to say when the engine is back together and in the car it runs with no blowby,smoke out the tailpipe etc.
the engine is out of the car and being rebuilt now would be the best time to build it back correctly rather than to have to possibly pull it out knowing you could have done it right the first time! just my opinion and i am sure others will agree!
the engine is out of the car and being rebuilt now would be the best time to build it back correctly rather than to have to possibly pull it out knowing you could have done it right the first time! just my opinion and i am sure others will agree!
09-18-2006, 07:11 PM
#23
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Ok, Update the engine is back at the machine shop. He is going to take care of the problem. I am going to have it bored .030 over just because its a more standard size. On top of that I will have the deck resurfaced just to be on the safe side.
I am having trouble finding hypereutectic pistons that will maintain a close to stock compression ratio. Sense I am having it decked and I will be buying LE1 heads(and cam), wouldn't that higher my compression? What compression pistons should I use because of those things?
Oh, I forgot to add what I will be buying for the engine.
LE1 head/cam package
CSR electric water pump
Cloyes true roller timing chain
Comp cams pro magnum roller rockers(NSA 7/16)
ARP rocker arm studs(7/16)
GM performance parts guideplates(5/16)
Comp cams hardened pushrods(5/16)
30lb svo injectors
Tell me what you think.
I am having trouble finding hypereutectic pistons that will maintain a close to stock compression ratio. Sense I am having it decked and I will be buying LE1 heads(and cam), wouldn't that higher my compression? What compression pistons should I use because of those things?
Oh, I forgot to add what I will be buying for the engine.
LE1 head/cam package
CSR electric water pump
Cloyes true roller timing chain
Comp cams pro magnum roller rockers(NSA 7/16)
ARP rocker arm studs(7/16)
GM performance parts guideplates(5/16)
Comp cams hardened pushrods(5/16)
30lb svo injectors
Tell me what you think.
Last edited by LS1-SEVEN; 09-18-2006 at 09:13 PM.
09-18-2006, 10:06 PM
#24
I would not even consider boring the block .030 to get rid of those marks. The bore taper and out-of-round are much more important than some shallow scratches. I will hone a block as much as .004 oversize to avoid boring and taking life out the block. .004 over works fine as long as the rings are gap'd correctly.
Also, don't worry about the old-style rods. Old style rods are forged steel and I'm pretty sure they're stronger than the LT1 PM rods.
Mike
Also, don't worry about the old-style rods. Old style rods are forged steel and I'm pretty sure they're stronger than the LT1 PM rods.
Mike
09-19-2006, 08:44 AM
#25
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I don't know enough about engine machining, so correct me if I am wrong.
Do you mean the engine won't run as long after the rebuild if I bore it out, or you mean the block won't have much room for another bore down the road?
The marks are kind of deep, my machinist said that he would want to bore it at least .020 over to get rid of the marks.
Do you mean the engine won't run as long after the rebuild if I bore it out, or you mean the block won't have much room for another bore down the road?
The marks are kind of deep, my machinist said that he would want to bore it at least .020 over to get rid of the marks.
09-19-2006, 09:35 AM
#26
Originally Posted by LS1-SEVEN
Do you mean the engine won't run as long after the rebuild if I bore it out, or you mean the block won't have much room for another bore down the road?
The marks are kind of deep, my machinist said that he would want to bore it at least .020 over to get rid of the marks.
The marks are kind of deep, my machinist said that he would want to bore it at least .020 over to get rid of the marks.
How wide are the grooves?
Mike
09-19-2006, 09:41 PM
#29
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i have a 96 LT1 and its bored .030 over and im right around 110,000 on the rebuild and around 220,000 on the block and it still runs strong ... it just recently started buning a little oil on start up but i think thats a valve seat.... so i think its safe to say that the LT1 block can handle a .030 bore. oo and its never been sprayed ... so you should be fine if you dont use spray..
