1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

I wanted to get my stroker kit i am trying to go with a 406CI but just wanted to know the bore anbd stroke???? I was planning on buying my kit from dyno-flow.com does anyone have any expierience with them???

1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

anyone???

zigroid

iTrader: (22)

a 406 is when you take a 400 sbc block (4.125" bore) with a stock 400 crank (3.75") and bore it over .030".
you, im assuming, have an LT1 block which has a stock bore of 4". most people only go with a .030" overbore. that with...
stock crank (3.48") gives you a 355.
3.75" crank gives you a 383.
3.875" crank gives you a 396.

you could use a 4" stroke crank and a .030" overbore to get 408 cubes. thats really pushing it. cam to rod contact would probably occur. might hit water jackets clearancing the block?
there was a 410 cubic inch LT1 short block for sale a short while ago.

try playing with this:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/cubicinchdispcalc.html

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

You would get 1 pass then your cylinder walls would shatter.

1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

i was planning on obtaining a 400 CI block but the deal fell thru... so it looks more like a 383 or a 396 depending on what i can get for the price i wanna spend.....Thanks for the info guys.

94Z396

396 and 383 is gonna be about the same price, so i would go with a 396 to get my cubic inches, along with getting more Tq.

1LOUD98

iTrader: (1)

I HAD 410 CID LT1 I DROVE IT AROUND ON THE STREETS WITH OUT ANY PROBLEMS. I HAD NO OVER HEATING ISSUES. SOME OF THIS INFO ON THIS POST IS IN CORRECT. U CAN CONTACT ME @ 225-445-1534 OR OTBERRY@YAHOO.COM

MrCadillac

I concur with 1LOUD98

MrCadillac

I've been contiplateing the 396+ build. Bigger can be done, sometimes you just gotta buy an aftermarket block

1LOUD98

iTrader: (1)

I Would On Buy An Aftermarket Block If I Was Trying To Get 421 Cid Or Better. The Have Lt1 Blocks That Hold 1100hp.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Unless you have heads that flow 330+ cfm, you are wasting money on this, especially with an LT1 block. to make this worthwhile you would need a victor converted with elbow, the above heads, 1 7/8 headers, 4 inch Mufflex, it will not make any more power than a well though out 383.



David

1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

i know it is possible but dont have the funds or the patience to deal with all the things coming into a bigger build.... i already in the process of getting a Victor Jr intake made up for my build so that's taken care of. i am just hoping it all works out.

SPDMETL

Does an older 400/4.125 block work with LT1 top end, opti, etc...? Sorry for noob questions

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Nope. Different cooling setup, I believing the timing area/cover are a bit different as well.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

You start getting into anything over .060 bore and that starts getting touchy..

I have found the easiest and cheaper way to go larger cubes is LS based. You can flame me about it, but it's the truth. The Blocks are designed differently, and it's just alot easier to do.
I built a very simple 402ci bottom-end out of a stock 6.0l Ironblock, and an Eagle 4.000" Crank with the Pistons/Rods to match. .030 over an it's a 408, .060 over an it's a 414, and still very streetable. Personally I wouldn't go past the 408, but it can be done. The only thing I clearanced was the Oil Pan, the #1 Rod Bolt scuffs in a spot if you don't grind it down a little bit.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

While I'm all for sticking with the LTx motors, with the over abundance of GEN III motors around (don't think LS by that, truck motors like Mervs), it's just too cheap to pass up if you can find a good deal on a motor pull. Rear ended or T-Boned trucks in the junkyards are great spot to get all you need.

Yes Merv, I know you got a great deal on your short block -_- Asshat

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

It's not my fault..don't be hatin..

I couldn't pass up $500 for a complete 6.0 Shortblock already on an Engine Stand delivered to the house..