i have had heads and cam on my car for about 600 miles and never even got it to redline until after 500 miles, the second time i do, the rocker arm stud snaps at the very top. i dont think much of it, maybe installer error and so i go through and adjust all the rocker arms/valve lash. get everything solid and next thing you know i break another rocker arm stud. im breaking them off right at the top of the stud and i was informed that the rocker arm should be sitting lower on the stud than it actually is. i go back and make sure everything is adjusted correctly and it is. i get no tapping of valves or anything. i put another new stud in again. everything is going fine and next thing you know, im pulling away from a light, and before I even get the clutch slipped completely out, the car starts to stutter all over the place and i instantly know what it is. another stud broke on cylinder 8. the first break was an intake rocker arm stud on cylinder 6. the next was on the cylinder 5 intake rocker arm stud and the last was a exahust rocker arm stud on cylinder 8. i know everything was adjusted properly. i have aftermarket hardened pushrods and they are the exact same length as the stock pushrods. the lifters are stock replacement comp cams and the cam is a 224/230/53x/54x with my 1.6 Comp Cams Self Alighning Roller Rockers. SO basically i have the cam, stock replacement lifters, exact length as stock Comp Cams pushrods, CompCams 1.6 Roller Rockers, and I have NO CLue why the rocker arm is sitting so high on the Stud or why im breaking the top one-quarter of an inch of the stud off. if you have any advice, please help....i know getting a longer would allow the rocker arm Poly lock to sit farther on the stud thus keeping it from ripping the tip off, but does anybody make longer studs or would that even be a good idea? its a 96 LT1 if that means anything

<small>[ February 08, 2003, 02:05 AM: Message edited by: TAraysr ]</small>

 

are you using the stock rocker studs? if so get some ARP studs. they will be a little longer and alot stronger. or better yet you could switch to 7/16" studs and change to 7/16 rockers for alot more strength.

your pushrod length should be ok, but it would be good to check the geometry just to make sure they arent too long

 

I have Comp Cams Studs

 

I replied some where to this ... Go find it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

If you still have 3/8 studs on there and have an aftermarket beefier spring, the chances go way up for breaking those noodles. ARP would probably suffice, but I'd switch over to a 7/16 stud...you'd be hard pressed to break one of those with a hydraulic set up. Good luck w/ it.


P

 

TwoFast4Lv, i searched and came up with no results. do you remember where it was or have the link to it?

ChevyGuy mentioned it, so does anybody else think the ARP Chromoly 3/8ths studs would be any better?

<small>[ February 09, 2003, 01:06 AM: Message edited by: TAraysr ]</small>

 

i would just switch to 7/16 rockers and studs. i only use 3/8 studs with stock and hotcam spring setups. anything bigger and i always use 7/16

 

Take the time to put the 7/16 ARP studs on. Otherwise your are just drawing straws at which stud will break next. Even with the better 3/8 ARP stud its worth the effort to put on the beefier stud.

 

yeah i would go bigger. I would not take the chance of breaking more of them. I hope i dont run into this problem. How much is a set of the good studs.