onebadblackz

iTrader: (1)

what are all the bolt ons besides cam.... I no headers and exhaust but what else... its going to be for my 95 Z28 I want to see 325-360rwhp without a cam and head work

Shon Herron

iTrader: (25)

1.6 RR & springs. CAI, EWP, weight reduction, gears, TC/Clutch, TB, TUNING.
The goal of 320ish is doable, 360 might be a tad high.

http://www.herronperformance.com/html/shop_car.html

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

320 MAYBE doable. 360, I just can't see without heads and/or cam, and cam-only on stock heads would be tough.

Headers are definitely on the bolt-on list. EWP, if you didn't know, is electric waterpump. Pulleys, too.

Now, it ain't exactly a bolt on, but raising compression by a thinner head gasket or shaving the heads has been done before...

TAEnvy

iTrader: (2)

To get that youd need every bolt on.
That includes:
CAI Intake. Vortech,Trickflow, or 1LE Elbow. 58mm TB. 1.6 RRs. New Springs. Headers. ORY and one of the better flowing Catback. Gears
And somd damn good tuning.

ToxicFormula

I think I have just about every bolt-on possible besides RR and springs. And my full list of stuff is in my sig. I also will be going to the dyno on Saterday so if you want I can let you know what all the stuff I have on my car could possibly get you.

onebadblackz

iTrader: (1)

ya man let me no

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

full boltons = mid 12's, right?

what kind of times would i run with the mods in my sig, like 13.8-.9?

ToxicFormula

Depending on the weather (both temperature and humidity) low 13's high 12's are pretty easily attainable. In ideal weather mid 12's are possible.

On a stick car I honestly have no clue cause my my car is an automatic with a 3200 stall converter in it so I flash the converter at the line.

Also another thing to remember is if you want to get into the low 13's to mid 12's you'll most likely need a set of good sticky tires on your rear wheels in order to dead hook of the line.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

320/330 ish is do-able if your prepared to do every freak-in bolt-on and trick known to the LT1. I made 323 rwhp / 343 rwtq with all the bolt-ons except PCM tuning and cut-out. I pretty sure the car makes over 330 rwhp / 350 rwtq with the addition of the last two mods (PCM tuning/cut-out). Car ran the numbers in the sig when it was making 323/343 and I think it's got a 12.20/30 in it at 110/111 with the additional that I picked up with the last two mods.

96formulaM6

iTrader: (1)

what all bolt ons do u have, is a M6...good times by the way

ToxicFormula

that is a stick car right? not an automatic?

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

6 spd car with race prepped T-56 (viper snychro's, the whole 9) MOSER 12 bolt with 4:11's, Denny's Metal Matrix 3.5" polished drive shaft (weighs about 6lbs), Mcloud Street twin clutch. On the 12.61 @ 109 pass I did a 1.80 60ft on slicks and the car had more 60ft in it, but I could not hook it up at the track. Now that I've got tons of suspension stuff, I'm thinking I should be able to get into the 1.60 range. If I drop two tenths on the bottom I should pickup two tenths on the top, plus the PCM tuning and cut-out open. I'm pretty sure I can get the 12.20 range at 110/111 My car is a fully optioned 1996 WS6 T/A and everything is functional. It is a little bit on the piggy side at 3500 + lbs.

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

Maybe a bit more up top even.

According to the dyno, my full weight A4 94 Z28 can do a 12.20 1/4 with 275 hp... IF I could pull a 1.43 60 foot!

ToxicFormula

Those are already some great numbers the car is laying down. But to be honest looking to drop 4 tenths is a lot. I'm not saying that its impossible. But I would guess it would be more in the high 12.3's or low 12.4's Cause I agree that ET's are all in the 60 ft times but theres only so much that a N/A stock LT1 can do. But then again I'm not an expert. I'm still rollin on my stock 10 bolt with a set of 3.73's and stock drive shaft too

ToxicFormula

the dyno may say one thing........but unless you can do it on the track teh numbers don't mean anything Thats why I never bother doing a 1/4 mile simulation on the dyno cause to be honest it isnt very accurate from what I've seen.

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

I'm thinking 2 tenths from 60ft reduction from a 1.80 to a 1.60 hopefully and the extra 20 hp or so from the cut-out and PCM dyno-tune (another .15 tenth) I did not have when I ran my 12.61 @ 109. So, 2 tenths from the 60ft and .15 from the extra 20 hp or so, that should just let me sneak a 12.20 something into the mix. I'm guessing I will gain at least 1mph to put me over the 110 mark, maybe a touch more. If the DA and weather co-operate I'm very confident I can get the numbers I will be on a full slick mounted to a Bogart 3 piece bolted RT (very light).