LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

le2 track times

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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 09:24 AM
  #21  
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so um no one has any track times except for chevydomination and luda0840?
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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The heads are yours that get built
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 12:05 PM
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Theres a guy a Cz28.com that went 11.9 with his LE2 heads and cam package but spun a bearing.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 01:19 PM
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oh man, now ill have to rethink this whole package then. $1400 to build a set of stock casting heads seem a bit pricy to me. Should just build a 4 bolt 355. Im starting to find out that not a whole lot of ppl make a lot of stuff for us lt1 guys. For a genuine 350, you can get a cam at Walgreens if need be, lol. Well back to the ol' thinkin board for me.
I would assume with the required bolt-ons for the le2 heads and le3 cam, i would think the car would at least be a low 12sec. car correct? I know every car is different but my car with bolt-ons now will run with a high 12 sec. car as it sits in my driveway as i write this.............. so le2 heads, le3 cam should dam well make it run low 12's.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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r u nuts go do some research there is a hugggggggggge aftermarket for the LT1
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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You got to think about it, aftermarket heads will cost alot more, I know with the trickflows you need an LT4 intake which are gone or have youre intake welded but it's $$$. $1500 for a set of unported aftermarket heads and no cam, or a Fully ported stocker with the matched cam for you ET and power goals for $1500 "LE3". I went with Lloyd, he's got great custmer service, alway's answers ?? and knows what's best for you're set up and Bret is knows a hell of alot about cams. Not to mention the the parts that come in the LE3 are top notch parts. I know it isn't about flow bench racing but my numbers aren't to shabby for ported stockers
They are 2.055/1.60 valves.

Here are the flow #'s . . . . . . .

.2 143/110
.3 198/143
.4 243/171
.5 274/184
.6 284/196
.650 287/201

Lloyd Elliott
972-617-5671
Eportworks.com
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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yea, ill try and email him again. I have no dought that his stuff is mint and i only hear good things about his set-us, just IMO seems a bit high for stock heads, again thats my own personial opinion. I havent touched the motor besides some bolt-ons. So im at a fork in the road. Build my lt1 or build a carbed 355. Only thing that turns me away from the lt1 is the opti. Granted mine is having no problems, knock on wood. And i hear about the MSD having problems. Thats the only thing that pisses me off about the lt1. Im building this car as my drag car. Im just weighting out my options. Eaither i do the le3 and later on build a 355 lt1 when mine takes a crap. Or invest that money into a 4 bolt 355 with a carb. Money for money you can build a older 350 cheaper but wont have the tech. as the fuel injection. A lot of my buddys are old school carb guys so ill have the know-how about that all and i got computer tuning guys who can do that also. I just dont know what route to go.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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Light car, 4.11's, light rotating assembly Forged 355, LE3 Package. That thing will rev 7grand that's my set up with a 175hp shot. On motor it should be mid to low 11's on juice I hope to get in the 10's. Then again my car is light no bumper supports, K-mem, tube a-arms race weight is about 3450-3500lbs.
Just got to put engine together.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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If you are building a drag car then I would build the short block now and do it right with strong stuff to take abuse...I would also recommend doing a 383, just my opinion, but I like making power without spinning the motor to the moon...Probably why my shortblock has ben together since 1995 and has been untouched...Go with a forged rotating assembly and "overbuild it" to take anything that you may throw at it...I used a Callies crank, Oliver 5.85" rods, and JE pistons..simple and extremely durable, a bit pricey, but it continues to work flawlessly 11 years after it was built...

You can definitely make power with ported stockers and 2.00/1.56s as this had already been addressed and you don't need a huge cam either..You'd laugh at how small my cam is, but its matched to the heads, to the gear, and to the converter...I don't have massive weight reduction, I'm around 3600 with me in it..

Suspension set up is simple also...The regular bolt on stuff set up the right way with stock springs and shocks and on M/T Drag Radials..

If you want I'll pm you my whole "shebang" as I have no secrets its all about the fun...I'm by no means an expert, but what I have works well and is fairly simple...

--Alan
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 07:46 PM
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yes, deff. ABA383. PM me with your suspension set-up and cam specs. As my car sits now, its pretty set-up and just wating for a motor now. As my car sits it has a Vig. 3200 stall, FLT level 4 4l60e, 3.73's with a girdle. Suspension wise i got Eibach pro lunch drag springs, LCA, adj. torque arm, SFC, bigger sway bar, STB, and its fully gutted, JUST for you ChevyDomination!!! I wanted to build the drive line first. Now i need to motor to put it to work. And im also on a budget too. I dont have thousands to spend just on a crank eaither. Sooooo, i think it would be cool to keep the lt1 because everyone thinks is JUNK! and cant go fast. Whatever. And time wise im not looking for single digets, i wouldnt mind but you know what i mean. If i can get a high 11 on motor id be happy, then a low 11 on nitrous. Thats what im shooting for to be honest. Then later on ill build a monster motor when i come across more money or a new job or something.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ABA383
If you are building a drag car then I would build the short block now and do it right with strong stuff to take abuse...I would also recommend doing a 383, just my opinion, but I like making power without spinning the motor to the moon...Probably why my shortblock has ben together since 1995 and has been untouched...Go with a forged rotating assembly and "overbuild it" to take anything that you may throw at it...I used a Callies crank, Oliver 5.85" rods, and JE pistons..simple and extremely durable, a bit pricey, but it continues to work flawlessly 11 years after it was built...

You can definitely make power with ported stockers and 2.00/1.56s as this had already been addressed and you don't need a huge cam either..You'd laugh at how small my cam is, but its matched to the heads, to the gear, and to the converter...I don't have massive weight reduction, I'm around 3600 with me in it..

Suspension set up is simple also...The regular bolt on stuff set up the right way with stock springs and shocks and on M/T Drag Radials..

If you want I'll pm you my whole "shebang" as I have no secrets its all about the fun...I'm by no means an expert, but what I have works well and is fairly simple...

--Alan
PM me you're "shebang" too I'm interested in you suspension set up and engine specs.

"Taubr" your already got you're suspension set up that's a plus. 11's should be easy with fully ported stockers and the right cam. Mine is a tad bigger than the GM847 and the lsa is set around 107 cant' give the exact specs in respecsts to both Lloyd and Bret.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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Here are more track time number Lloyd Elliot went 11.55@117 with his LE2 heads and cam package on a 383.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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wow, everyone and there mother has a 383. Unfortunate, im not a baller and mine will be going on a stock bottom end. So 383 build engines really do me no good. Thanks though, at least i almost have a idea.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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My heads are at Lloyds as we speek. Remember on his site it says we build it to what YOU want. i'm going to use the LE1 heads for my forged 355 (due to being on a budget) and i can make use of the 847 because the heads flow alot better stock and i can turn the motor to what i want. Lloyd is also installing 918's on the LE1's due to the cam. He knows his stuff so just call him. It's another thing i like about ELportworks, you call and talk to the person doing the work! Lloyd himself
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
wow, everyone and there mother has a 383. Unfortunate, im not a baller and mine will be going on a stock bottom end. So 383 build engines really do me no good. Thanks though, at least i almost have a idea.
i'm a do-it-once kinda guy and i went ahead and spent the money to build the bottom end so there's no worries about spinnig a stock junk bearing. If you wanna stay stock bottom end get the LE1's and a 224/230 so you can pull out at 5800-6000 and be safe. just my .02
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