K-Frame replacement
Support the Engine and Drive Train, disconnect the Power Steering Rack, disconnect the Brake lines for the Front. Then un-bolt the Motor Mounts, Struts, Spindles, then K-Member, and you should be good
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 65
From: NYC
Thanks bud. My K-member took a hit before I got the car and I'd like to replace it. Now, Spohn or UMI? I was also thinking of a new/better oil pan. Canton? While I'm at it, I'm considering the SSBC four piston/13 inch brake kit.
You are going to be dropping some money on both regardless..lol
Don't get the Tubular Control Arms, they aren't as strong as the Factory ones. If you are track racing it, then go for it, but be careful on the street.
Don't get the Tubular Control Arms, they aren't as strong as the Factory ones. If you are track racing it, then go for it, but be careful on the street.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by the_merv
You are going to be dropping some money on both regardless..lol
Don't get the Tubular Control Arms, they aren't as strong as the Factory ones. If you are track racing it, then go for it, but be careful on the street.
Don't get the Tubular Control Arms, they aren't as strong as the Factory ones. If you are track racing it, then go for it, but be careful on the street.
go tubular everything... if for some freak reason something broke... you would have a multimillion dollar lawsuit that you would win.
They are not goign to sell soemthing that is going ot break if used daily because of lawsuit would take them out or raise their insurance rates.. think about it.
Originally Posted by Camaro Bird 1987
if it wasn't safe for the street they wouldn't sell it or it would say when you bought it...
go tubular everything... if for some freak reason something broke... you would have a multimillion dollar lawsuit that you would win.
They are not goign to sell soemthing that is going ot break if used daily because of lawsuit would take them out or raise their insurance rates.. think about it.
go tubular everything... if for some freak reason something broke... you would have a multimillion dollar lawsuit that you would win.
They are not goign to sell soemthing that is going ot break if used daily because of lawsuit would take them out or raise their insurance rates.. think about it.
Even if you get the tubular arms in chromoly they have a decent chance of bending??? Any input on this would be great, I wanted to get the kframe and the arms.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: St. Augustine, FL
Perhaps a sponsor or sponsors could chime in here?!?!
UMI performance write up about their A-arms:
- "Our tubular a-arms were built with this in mind-to offer the strongest manufactured item on the market"
- "By adding our tubular a-arms to the front of your F-Body you immediately remove 8 lbs. from the front of your vehicle, while adding strength and increased performance"
- "These tubular a-arms were designed to outperform the stock setup, whether it’s at the race track or a added improvement to your daily driver, they been tested and improved to handle both applications"
Spohn Performance says this about their A-arms:
- "we had two goals in mind. One was to provide the performance capabilities needed for the toughest race tracks, the second was to provide the strength and durability required for the demands of a daily driven vehicle. We're proud to say that we have accomplished both."
- "Spohn control arms are gusseted in critical areas to ensure that a weld never breaks."
BMR fabrication says this about their A-arms:
- "provide you with a very rigid, high quality upgrade to the factory suspension."
- "built extremely rigid and are equally at home on the street or at the track"
All of that is out of context but, directly copied from their websites. I understand the use of certain BUZZ words for marketing but, damned if SPOHN didn't just hit the nail on the head! I'm in no way trying to single out any one company... just checked out 3 bigger names and wanted to bring these details/descriptions to the table. I'm very interested in the quality and durability of aftermarket a-arms as well. I plan on upgrading my DAILY DRIVER eventually. Anyone that has actually experienced bending of these parts on their car want to chime in? If so, what caused it?
UMI performance write up about their A-arms:
- "Our tubular a-arms were built with this in mind-to offer the strongest manufactured item on the market"
- "By adding our tubular a-arms to the front of your F-Body you immediately remove 8 lbs. from the front of your vehicle, while adding strength and increased performance"
- "These tubular a-arms were designed to outperform the stock setup, whether it’s at the race track or a added improvement to your daily driver, they been tested and improved to handle both applications"
Spohn Performance says this about their A-arms:
- "we had two goals in mind. One was to provide the performance capabilities needed for the toughest race tracks, the second was to provide the strength and durability required for the demands of a daily driven vehicle. We're proud to say that we have accomplished both."
- "Spohn control arms are gusseted in critical areas to ensure that a weld never breaks."
BMR fabrication says this about their A-arms:
- "provide you with a very rigid, high quality upgrade to the factory suspension."
- "built extremely rigid and are equally at home on the street or at the track"
All of that is out of context but, directly copied from their websites. I understand the use of certain BUZZ words for marketing but, damned if SPOHN didn't just hit the nail on the head! I'm in no way trying to single out any one company... just checked out 3 bigger names and wanted to bring these details/descriptions to the table. I'm very interested in the quality and durability of aftermarket a-arms as well. I plan on upgrading my DAILY DRIVER eventually. Anyone that has actually experienced bending of these parts on their car want to chime in? If so, what caused it?
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Hello,
Yes you can very easily remove and replace the K-member with the engine still in the vehicle. This how we do it and how we recommend it be done, basically all your work will be performed from under the car.
As for build quality, our goal is to offer the most dependable items on the market and so far we have done that. Some of our items may not be the "lightest" out there but they are not only built for a race track but to get you to race track and home safely. We advertise most of out items as "street" items because the not only can handle the race track but also the vigorous strain of a daily driven car.
If you have any questions regarding the removal and replacement of the K-Member please contact us and we will be glad to help. We will also be glad to explain what you will be getting into over the phone.
Thank you!
Ryan
Yes you can very easily remove and replace the K-member with the engine still in the vehicle. This how we do it and how we recommend it be done, basically all your work will be performed from under the car.
As for build quality, our goal is to offer the most dependable items on the market and so far we have done that. Some of our items may not be the "lightest" out there but they are not only built for a race track but to get you to race track and home safely. We advertise most of out items as "street" items because the not only can handle the race track but also the vigorous strain of a daily driven car.
If you have any questions regarding the removal and replacement of the K-Member please contact us and we will be glad to help. We will also be glad to explain what you will be getting into over the phone.
Thank you!
Ryan
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Hello,
Yes you can very easily remove and replace the K-member with the engine still in the vehicle. This how we do it and how we recommend it be done, basically all your work will be performed from under the car.
As for build quality, our goal is to offer the most dependable items on the market and so far we have done that. Some of our items may not be the "lightest" out there but they are not only built for a race track but to get you to race track and home safely. We advertise most of out items as "street" items because the not only can handle the race track but also the vigorous strain of a daily driven car.
If you have any questions regarding the removal and replacement of the K-Member please contact us and we will be glad to help. We will also be glad to explain what you will be getting into over the phone.
Thank you!
Ryan
Yes you can very easily remove and replace the K-member with the engine still in the vehicle. This how we do it and how we recommend it be done, basically all your work will be performed from under the car.
As for build quality, our goal is to offer the most dependable items on the market and so far we have done that. Some of our items may not be the "lightest" out there but they are not only built for a race track but to get you to race track and home safely. We advertise most of out items as "street" items because the not only can handle the race track but also the vigorous strain of a daily driven car.
If you have any questions regarding the removal and replacement of the K-Member please contact us and we will be glad to help. We will also be glad to explain what you will be getting into over the phone.
Thank you!
Ryan
And you would replace a set if they bent while driving around on the street correct?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 65
From: NYC
Thank you everybody for chiming in on this, especially the good folks (Ryan) at UMI, that might just sway my purchase choice a bit.
While I didn’t ask about the tubular control arms, it’s good info. If I drop into one of our famous NYC potholes and bend an arm, I wouldn’t expect any manufacturer to replace it, it was my fault. If a weld cracked or let loose, that may be another story.
I am looking for some feedback on the UMI vs. Spohn K-Member as well as oil pan recommendations. Has anyone here used the SSBC Force 10 four piston/13 inch front brake setup?
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...bird&year=1994
While I didn’t ask about the tubular control arms, it’s good info. If I drop into one of our famous NYC potholes and bend an arm, I wouldn’t expect any manufacturer to replace it, it was my fault. If a weld cracked or let loose, that may be another story.
I am looking for some feedback on the UMI vs. Spohn K-Member as well as oil pan recommendations. Has anyone here used the SSBC Force 10 four piston/13 inch front brake setup?
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...bird&year=1994
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Thank you everybody for chiming in on this, especially the good folks (Ryan) at UMI, that might just sway my purchase choice a bit.
While I didn’t ask about the tubular control arms, it’s good info. If I drop into one of our famous NYC potholes and bend an arm, I wouldn’t expect any manufacturer to replace it, it was my fault. If a weld cracked or let loose, that may be another story.
I am looking for some feedback on the UMI vs. Spohn K-Member as well as oil pan recommendations. Has anyone here used the SSBC Force 10 four piston/13 inch front brake setup?
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...bird&year=1994
While I didn’t ask about the tubular control arms, it’s good info. If I drop into one of our famous NYC potholes and bend an arm, I wouldn’t expect any manufacturer to replace it, it was my fault. If a weld cracked or let loose, that may be another story.
I am looking for some feedback on the UMI vs. Spohn K-Member as well as oil pan recommendations. Has anyone here used the SSBC Force 10 four piston/13 inch front brake setup?
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...bird&year=1994
. Also a nice benefit to our K-Member is we lower our rear tube low enough it protects the oil pan unlike any other brand out there. This way if you where ever to hit something the K-member would hit first protecting the oil pan from damage. I thought this was very important during our design process. Agains thanks for considering us,
Ryan
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 65
From: NYC
Hey Ryan (@UMI), I got my SFC today, thank you. It looks great, once I got all the damm packing and bubble wrap off it. Don't worry, I'll ding & scratch it before it's even installed.
By the looks of your stuff, you're K-Member is looking better.
I'm STILL looking for some non-manufacturer opinions on the K-Member, SSCB brakes and oil pans.
By the looks of your stuff, you're K-Member is looking better.
I'm STILL looking for some non-manufacturer opinions on the K-Member, SSCB brakes and oil pans.
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Hey Ryan (@UMI), I got my SFC today, thank you. It looks great, once I got all the damm packing and bubble wrap off it. Don't worry, I'll ding & scratch it before it's even installed.
By the looks of your stuff, you're K-Member is looking better.
I'm STILL looking for some non-manufacturer opinions on the K-Member, SSCB brakes and oil pans.
By the looks of your stuff, you're K-Member is looking better.
I'm STILL looking for some non-manufacturer opinions on the K-Member, SSCB brakes and oil pans.
