Cammd95Z

iTrader: (4)

Ok so last spring I decided to take my 1995 camaro with bolt ons, and do a cam, I went with the LT4 hotcam because I wanted to keep the driveability with just some more added power. So I did the entire cam kit,Cam, Lifters, Springs, 1.6 RR New timing chain SET, msd wires, cap, rotor, plugs. anyways with all my bolt ons, i was running a 13.6 now i've done the cam, had it mail order tuned (which was my mistake) and installed drag radials, and i havent been to the track yet but the G-tech tells me its running 14.3 - 14.5 now thats **** even to a stock Z28! im hoping the gtech is off, but either way the car doesnt feel like its much faster if any. doesnt necessarily feel slower, but not noticably faster. It runs great when driven normally, idles perfect, start up first try, sounds healthy and mean with a nice lope, one thing i did notice with the drag radials is it seems like i bog down when i launch, with the old tires (G-Force KDW) i would launce at about 1500, maybe 2000 (A4) and i would launch good, spinning through first, well into 2nd, but then catch in 2nd and it would downshift back to first for like half a second, then back up to second taking time away from my 1/4, and losing the race. Now i know i need a dyno tune, which will be happening next spring along with a stall and headers. Withthe drag radials the launch is great, no spin, the grab and go but it seems to be a slowwer acceleration. from 1,000rpm to 3,000 rpm, it seems that the tires spinning was throwing me out there better than the drag radials which grab. Is it possible that these drag radials are just too much tire for the power i have right now??

harvickgm

iTrader: (10)

your going off of a Gtech... get to the track and find out... im not sure how accurate that thing is but i wouldnt rely on it...
and who did the mail order tune come from.. they arent that bad.. they are pretty damn good from a good tuner.. and yes a dyno tune will get you the most, but im sure you are pretty close..

LSWaaa?

im thinking DRs w/o a stall=your situation.

Cammd95Z

iTrader: (4)

PCM for less did the tune, sent it back to them twice, first time idled at like 1500, got it back and was fine, got to drive the car a little more and found out it didnt wanna shift till past 6400 so i had it set to 5800 which is a little after where the cam spec sheet says it stops makin power, Gtech was right on at the track with the 13.6 w/bolt ons i set it up to be right on, so it shoulda matched this time, so if i do stall the car ho high should i go? i was thinking 3200 - 3400 at most... i think 3800 would be alittle high for that cam

Armyman2445

iTrader: (17)

I havent had any good info off a Gtech compared to track times and dyno time.. Mail order tunes are good to get a car running after a cam swap but if you want maxium power from a tune its better to get a dyno tune

ToxicTA

LSWaaa hit it correctly. Investing in a really good stall will be 2-fold it will allow you to utilize the new cam in a better power band, and that will allow you to get off the line. A new stall will give you day and night performance changes.

Cammd95Z

iTrader: (4)

nobodys really answered my question about how high of a stall to go, im thinking 32 to 3400 is that a good range to stay in??

juicedimpss

bingo.
the bs radials were allowing the car to rev into its power band,put a loose convertor in and enjoy life.

juicedimpss

3000-3400 would be fine for n/a
if you plan to put nitrous on,go a bit lower,2800-3000.

Fastvette94

Which G-Tech? I use the Pro RR. I ran it while at the track and it was .01 off on my ET and .1 MPH off of the timing lights at Angleton Raceway.

jimbob

iTrader: (4)

That low of shift is not helping. You'll find that hotcams like being shifted at 6200-6300 for most average power.....Not peak.....With your stock stall in their your extension (the rpms you drop to on the the shift) is probably 3500 right now (5800rpms minus stock stall drop of 2300 = 3500). Set it to shift at 6200ish that will raise it to 3900 rpms. And put in say a 3400ish stall in their and your shift extension will most likely be in the area of 4500rpm....much better....Oh, and one thing to watch out for is the dreaded "OBDI NO SHIFT," if you get to big of stall and drag race at the track (Meaning traction) it won't shift into second gear...There are fixes for OBDI, Ed Wright has it in his programs...I swapped to OBDII years ago when their were no fixes and that cured the problem.