mack

iTrader: (2)

Do the heads need to come off? I'll be putting new 918 Beehives on to support my new 502 cam w 10 degree retainers and locks.

What "specific" tools do you use?

Are the rr studs screw in on my heads?

On the cam sheet it recomends 1.5 or 1.52 rr. I believe that's what comes stock. Should I go 1.6? This a DD, 1000 miles a week w ocassional weekend at track. I'm not trying to kill my MPG. Just want a decent set up.

Thanks and please be very specific.


95 T/A A-4 LT1

MEAN LT1

iTrader: (2)

Your goona want to do a couple of things while your doing this install. First, since your doing this, I would change my valve seals. Yes your studs are scew in. Get some hardened push rods and some good 1.6rr(comp promags) The 502 cam doesnt have a bunch of lift so going with 1.6's is fine. No you will not have to pull the heads to change springs. What I would suggest you get is a good valve spring compressor like the one crane has for our cars. Thunder racing sells it. Good luck on the install.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

if doing springs on a car with the heads still installed, don't you want a air compressor? I thought you pump air through the spark plug hole on the cylinder you are working on, so the valve dosen't fall into the motor??

95Firehawk0158

iTrader: (1)

Golen told me that as long as the cylinder you're working on is at TDC the valve will not fall into the engine.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

yes I believe 1/4 turn past TDC is the good method for doing them while on the car and not wanting to use compressed air.

rkinney

I did mine without using air. Just put the cylinder you are working on at TDC, as previously mentioned. Valves will just rest on the top of the piston if they fall. New valve seals held my valves up while putting the new springs on. I start at Cyl. 1 and just follow the firing order, so you just have to turn the crank a 1/4 turn each time and your done.

mack

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone.