DropTopFireChKn

I'm getting ready to start ordering parts for my car and i plan to have it fiished by spring of next year... i want a engine i can spin to 6500-6800 with no problems and i want a minimum of 400/400 to the wheels!!! is that to high of a goal for this setup? are there any parts you guys see in here that you've heard bad things about? any input at all would really be appreciated!! thanks

stock block bored .030" over
eagle forged steel crank
clevite 77 bearing
arp main studs on a 4 bolt main
eagle forged h-rods w/ arp rod bolts
JE -5cc forged aluminum pistons for an est. c.r. of 11.8
fel-pro head gaskets
stock p&p heads most likely le2 or similar with custom grind to match
stock intake p&p
as&m 54mm tb
k&n cai
1.6 comp cams gold rr N.S.A.
comp cams hardened push rods w/guideplates
spec aluminum flywheel 12.5lb?
stock water pump
no a/c
aluminum radiator possibly be-cool
as&m 1 3/4" lt headers
true dual setup with x-pipe into dual borla xr-1

ZFan88

iTrader: (4)

electric water pump and valve springs, don't think i saw those

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Forged crank, I assume your talking stock stroke, or 3.75" (383), Eagle has more problems with cranks then other companies like Callies.

Forged rods- what length?? (all dependant on the crank)

I like BBK TB's I used the 58mm, it wont hurt and its recommended by Lloyd and Bret.

Rockers- If you get a LE setup, they will recommend Pro mag NSA rockers with Promag 7/16" studs.

Flywheel- You will lose low end power with the lighter flywheel, I would recommend steel.

Waterpump- CSR works mint and is cheap, worth 10hp.

Radiator- Stock replacement works mint. Spend money on other mods.

AS&M headers suck ***. We put them on a 93, I hate them, go Longtube such as Jet-hot.

DropTopFireChKn

i'm goin to keep the stock stroke which for a 350 i believe is 3.48? correct me if i'm wrong along with standard length rods...i'm not too big a fan of bbk tb because they've been known to sometimes whistle at idle..... i already have an aluminum flywheel and i love it.... e.w.p. i'm still undecided on but i jus bought a new stock replacement a few months ago so i might keep it cuz i'm really unsure about an electric pump's durability.... i would like to go ahead and get an aluminum radiator because i fugure it's cheap insurance(compared to how much i'm going to be spending on this setup).....as far as rr and pr i'd probably go with which ever they recomend i just wanna go with a nsa setup for the high rpm stability.. what was it that was so bad about the as&m headers, i would buy the long tubes if i went with them or if i didn't i would definately go kooks no emmisions long tubes.... btw i won't have egr or a smog pump on my setup

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If your doing internals, why not a 383, its a matter of machining cost, labor assembly. Your already paying for forged internals, why not give yourself some mechanical advantage.

Is this going to be a N/A motor only, maybe some n2o?? I had the same situation 3 years ago, I went 383 and loved it. I spent more time dealing with cams vs emissions. Which I cannot bribe anyone. I gotta pass it.

I have owned a BBK TB, they dont whistle, CAI's whistle.


EWP is one of the best mods, Save that money from the radiator. Your motor needs to run in operating temp to make proper power. LT1's with reverse cooling can more then support 40+ degrees of timing with pump gas. I did it with 11.25 to 1, with a EWP, stock replacement radiator.

As for AS&M they were the mid lengths with 1-3/4 primaries, the bolt access, sparkplug access suck ***. Then plug wire routing is horrible. Just avoid.

moserman

iTrader: (7)

u need to go with a flat top piston and 6" rods for max torque out of the piston/rod setup.

White 96LT1

iTrader: (4)

you will need to get a block with 4 bolt mains with those rpms!

foggedz

iTrader: (1)

If it came down to more cubes or extra money to spend on maybe a set of real nice heads, I would go with the heads. I would go with something better then LE2 heads if possible, thats where the HP is at.

DropTopFireChKn

the reason i wanna stay 355 is not because of the cost.... i evntually plan to go FI
and i wanna be able to get another rebuild out of it so i can have a FI prepped 383..... i just want a strong n/a that i can drive fri-sun with maybe 5-6 trips to the track a year.... now that you brought that up tho about the as&m headers i see your point about the acces to everything, i had that problem with my bbk shorties, my #6 plug was a pia... what do you think about kooks headers? i'm also not sure if i can run that high of a compression on 91.... i will be doing 4 bolt mains with arp studs... how would the 6" rod help, and would i need even more maching?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I went to E-town back in August and I met a guy with a LE2 setup, 94 Camaro, 355 cid, auto with a small stall, moser 12 bolt, and MT et street radials. More or less the same setup I had, driveline wise except I was a 383 with a hotcam. He ran 12.089 at 115 mph.

LE stuff works, Bret makes awesome LT1 cams, I had a opportunity to hang with him and he knows his ****. Cam and heads will dicatate any motor as far as cubes are concenred. If he goes 383, it'll be a bigger cam and heads and will go faster.

If your planning on a eventual 383 route, save for the eventual thing, not the here and now. Just my own opinion.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I got a Set of JET HOT LT's, for sale let me know via PM i'll give you the down low bout them.

aggiez28

iTrader: (19)

that has nothign to do with going 3.48 insted of 3.75

the stroke has no effect on being able to get another rebuild out of the motor. the bore size does.

how far down the road is the FI build up going to be? there are a few ways you could go about it.
build the bottom end for FI now.
select a piston that will give you the desired CR (for FI) with a large chamber head. then use a stock casting head for the mean time (if the CR is decent)
you could put the FI camm in now or later.

when its time to go FI you just need to swap to the other heads and put on the turbo/supercharger.
thats the basics of it. there will be more details of course