Changing out an Opti
ok so discount auto nor carquest the only two places around here had anything around here that was relatively cheap to check for the shrader valve. So my dad told me to do a kind of ghetto/old school trick and take a needle and press it down to see if any fuel squirts out. I just removed the cap and put the needle don't in there, and some fuel came out (i used proper eye protection lol). Bought a spark test, the one that has a faux spark plug that you put a plug wire onto and has a little area at the end that will show a spark if the car starts or you can take a voltmeter or whatever to hook into, and a clip to ground. As I go to turn the key to on, i figure why not try starting it for the hell of it, and Bam the car starts and that plug wire is getting a spark. I preceed to shut the car off and test every plug wire, the car started 8 times in a row and each plug wire is getting a spark, so I'm really thinking this is the fuel pump now. Thanks for all your help guys I really appreciate it.
I'm heading back home to orlando next weekend and I'm prolly just gonna go ahead and replace the fuel pump and have one of my buddies come over that is an GM mastermind and have him check everything out in the opti since it is getting to that time where it might need to be replaced anyways. I'm getting rid of the LT1 soon anyways, as I have a nice LQ9 block at home that I want to build into an LS2. So two questions.
1) What is the best way to change the fuel pump? Drop the rear end and gas tank? or Cut from the interior? I understand cutting is quicker and a lot less of a mess and PITA, but does it take away from the structural support of the unibody?
2) Which fuel pump should I get racetronix or walboro? Will either one of these work with an LSX type motor too?
Again guys I'm very greatfull for all of your help, I really appreciate everything.
1) What is the best way to change the fuel pump? Drop the rear end and gas tank? or Cut from the interior? I understand cutting is quicker and a lot less of a mess and PITA, but does it take away from the structural support of the unibody?
2) Which fuel pump should I get racetronix or walboro? Will either one of these work with an LSX type motor too?
Again guys I'm very greatfull for all of your help, I really appreciate everything.
I don't see why cutting into that area will really affect the structual integrity of the unibody. You should be re-attaching the 'trap door' anyways when you finish either with solder or welding or some other means. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with it. Basically it comes down to whether or not you want to cut into it or not. Dropping the rear and tank takes longer, but is definately easier because you've got much more room to work with when installing the pump -- however its much more of a p.i.t.a. to get to that point. The choice is yours.
The racetronix kit comes with the harness (for the record, the factory harness is pretty sad when compared to the racetronix harness) and it makes some subtle improvements to the regular Walboro pump.
As far as I know there aren't really any changes to the fuel system, so I don't see why changing the fuel pump will affect an LSX swap later on.
The racetronix kit comes with the harness (for the record, the factory harness is pretty sad when compared to the racetronix harness) and it makes some subtle improvements to the regular Walboro pump.
As far as I know there aren't really any changes to the fuel system, so I don't see why changing the fuel pump will affect an LSX swap later on.
So I replaced the fuel pump yesterday and fuel filter. The shrader valve is finally getting pressure now, so this solved one of the problems, and you can hear fuel going through the lines now when you turn the key to the on posistion. Go to start the car and nothing happens! :wall1: shut it off same thing. Try check the volts, ohms, ect of everything.....everything is fine and normal, the coil tho only has 0.3 ohm so I think it might be that now. But I randomly just tried starting the car and it starts, shut it off, try starting again doesn't work, try starting it right away after that and it starts right up. Could it be the crank posistioning sensor? I've got a friend bringing his laptop over with his diagnostic tools to try and figure it out. Just seeing if any of you would know.
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