Car dies when in gear
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From: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Car dies when in gear Ive been working on issues since I placed my 383 from my 94 Camaro into my 93 Vette. So far Ive changed the o2's (Heated O2 conversion power from ignition fuse grounded to the screw on top of the compresser), coolant temp switch on the water pump, and IAT. Stuff I can vouch for as good is the ICM, blaster coil, TPS, and MAP sensor. I can vouch for these because they worked fine on the Camaro and were newly replaced while on the Camaro. The things I cant vouch for are the spark plugs (which I have been through hell) and wires. Also I havent noticed any vacuum leaks.
Car idles pretty good. Smells rich sometimes but not all the time. The problem is when I go into Drive it stalls. Sometimes it'll go into drive without stalling but will stall after I start moving and hit the brake.
I datalogged the idle. Didnt get any codes and nothing looked really out of place but I havent really had a chance to really look at it deep.
So what should I concentrate on? Once the wires and plugs are changed then there will be nothing left but to start digging into the motor itself. Intake manifold gasket and lash are next on the menu. Any ideas?
Car idles pretty good. Smells rich sometimes but not all the time. The problem is when I go into Drive it stalls. Sometimes it'll go into drive without stalling but will stall after I start moving and hit the brake.
I datalogged the idle. Didnt get any codes and nothing looked really out of place but I havent really had a chance to really look at it deep.
So what should I concentrate on? Once the wires and plugs are changed then there will be nothing left but to start digging into the motor itself. Intake manifold gasket and lash are next on the menu. Any ideas?
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
More Info:
Opti is brand new Dynaspark. Note that this didnt start happening until I swapped the chip and replaced the coolant temp switch. The first thing I noticed after replacing the temp switch was the temp still read -37. After playing with the wire it jumped to the correct temp and read correctly through out.
I also noticed a puff of smoke coming from each side of the engine bay but I could never pin point were it was coming from. At first I assumed it was the burning oil from the leaky valve covers but if it was that it wouldve been more constant I would think.
Looking over the datamaster log some things stood out. The LTerm counts were at 108 most of the time and some of the time was between 108 and 120. The TPS% was 0% at .76volts most of the idle but I noticed sometimes when I would rev it up according to the log frame by frame the TPS% would not move from 0% but the TPS volts would jump from .76 (2625rpm's) to 1.25volts (2575rpm's) .86volts (3125rpm's) then at 2900 rpm's the TPS% goes to 1.2% and the TPS volts go to 0.76 volts, odd. As a matter of fact there was a point at idle were it read TPS% 3.5 TPS volts 0.82. and I was in cell 18. The TPS has to be screwing up the Fuel Map Cells because there are times when the car was revved to 3550rpm's MAP reading 10.79Hg, TPS% 0.0, TPS Volts 0.82v in Fuel Map Cell 16. The car still thought it was at normal idle speed. It never knew I revved it. The car even idled under Fuel Map Cell 18 in closed loop normal runnin idle. Also noted the car stayed in cell 16 when placed in drive. Not sure if that's ok or not .....Starting to believe the TPS may be bad
The wierdest thing I noticed was the O2 sensors would sometimes hit 0 on each side. Didnt happen all the time but seeing the drop made me think exhaust leak somewhere but could also be attributed to being in the wrong cell.
Another wierd thing is the BPW mS reading. The left box is ALWAYS in the yellow and it's always higher than the right box by .20 or less.
Opti is brand new Dynaspark. Note that this didnt start happening until I swapped the chip and replaced the coolant temp switch. The first thing I noticed after replacing the temp switch was the temp still read -37. After playing with the wire it jumped to the correct temp and read correctly through out.
I also noticed a puff of smoke coming from each side of the engine bay but I could never pin point were it was coming from. At first I assumed it was the burning oil from the leaky valve covers but if it was that it wouldve been more constant I would think.
Looking over the datamaster log some things stood out. The LTerm counts were at 108 most of the time and some of the time was between 108 and 120. The TPS% was 0% at .76volts most of the idle but I noticed sometimes when I would rev it up according to the log frame by frame the TPS% would not move from 0% but the TPS volts would jump from .76 (2625rpm's) to 1.25volts (2575rpm's) .86volts (3125rpm's) then at 2900 rpm's the TPS% goes to 1.2% and the TPS volts go to 0.76 volts, odd. As a matter of fact there was a point at idle were it read TPS% 3.5 TPS volts 0.82. and I was in cell 18. The TPS has to be screwing up the Fuel Map Cells because there are times when the car was revved to 3550rpm's MAP reading 10.79Hg, TPS% 0.0, TPS Volts 0.82v in Fuel Map Cell 16. The car still thought it was at normal idle speed. It never knew I revved it. The car even idled under Fuel Map Cell 18 in closed loop normal runnin idle. Also noted the car stayed in cell 16 when placed in drive. Not sure if that's ok or not .....Starting to believe the TPS may be bad
The wierdest thing I noticed was the O2 sensors would sometimes hit 0 on each side. Didnt happen all the time but seeing the drop made me think exhaust leak somewhere but could also be attributed to being in the wrong cell.
Another wierd thing is the BPW mS reading. The left box is ALWAYS in the yellow and it's always higher than the right box by .20 or less.
