LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

best underdrive pullies

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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 11:21 AM
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Default best underdrive pullies

what do you guys prefer? they're on my christmas list since a whole set isn't too expensive, and the only real sets i see are BBK and March. any suggestions or opinions one which ones are better?
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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I think most people say they suck... I'm curious too
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 01:31 PM
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The reason why they dont gain all that much is LT1's waterpump are not belt driven but rather cam driven. Also the fans are electric. Sooo really all they are turning is a PS pump and a ALT. If your not turning, your not even really putting a load on the pump.

I had a Aeromotive, they all basically work the same.

I would look into a Electric water pump, an easy 10 hp gain, 1 tenth at least and around 1-1.5 mph increase
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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I have a 34% underdrive Pulley. It just spins everything slower. I got it for nothing, so I put it on. If you have alot of electronic stuff, you will see the voltage drop.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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ewp do suck alot of juice, I went to a new stock alt and stock pulley and got ok charge.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 05:06 PM
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It may only be of importance to auto-x people, but remember, the underdrive pulley drives all the accessories slower. Slower rotating ps pulley = less friction & stress, which = longer ps pump life & cooler operating temps...
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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If you worried about voltage, get an alternatot for a B4C. The run a higher amp alt.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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I got a 140 Amp, factory stock..
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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When I bought my underdrive pulley, I put an overdrive pulley on the alternator. No change in voltage, just turns the a/c and p/s slower.
Worth the money? Probably not.
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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The point about autoX or road racing and UD pullies making things easier on the PS pump is a good one. Far as charging issues might be an issue on a stock car but a cammed one will usually have the idle raised enough to offset things. The addon pullies add rotating weight not a lot but some, they also move the harmonic damper away from the crank some, I think there should be some concern over weither that is harmful or not, I don't know but it is a concern I would have.

IMO the right way to do this would be a lightweight damper and hub say from ATI lose some rotating weight, get the UD and get a top notch damper all in one, I don't have one yet but it is saved on my Summit wish list.
Off the top of my head I want to say the stock damper is 10-12lbs without the hub ATI has one at just 4.5lbs and an aluminum hub at just 1.4lbs, their steel hub is 2.9 and I think the stocker is heavier yet. Shave 6-8lbs rotating weight at engine RPM and UD the accessories and you will have a SOTP and strip difference. Rotating weight makes a much larger difference than dead weight and the larger the diameter of the weight and higher it spins make even more difference, the damper/hub are not large in diameter but they spin FAST much faster than tires and wheels where everyone knows to try to save weight.
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