Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Tony.

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

you can make big power with either, just depends how much power and how much you wanna spend and how much work. i say pick an avenue (i.e. naturally aspirated, forced induction or nitrous breathing beast) and then look at what you wanna do

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

thanks for sharing that incredible bit of wisdom as your first post

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever see that article in Car Craft a couple years back where they tested a SBC vs a BBC, but the trick was that the SBC was punched out to 454 cubes, just like the BBC, and they had the specs on everything, the cam the carb, the compression, EVERYTHING.
Well to my surprise the SBC made more power, I would have thought that the better flowing BBC heads would have pushed it over the mark, but they said the stroker SBC pulled air in and out of the cylinder better.

Well anyways if you can get an SBC to 454 cubes, you can definitely get an LT1 to those cube levels

chasehammer

iTrader: (1)

whooo i didnt know post numbers means youre better....

crb806

HAHA

LT1nitrouZ

Ok I am going to make an educated statement right here.


I dont think it would make any sense to swap in a LS1... at a minimum it would cost 1000 dollars more than doing the same mods to an LT1. I am assuming that if you are talking about swapping in a LS1 you are ready to spend some serious money, and not just wanting to run 12's or even 11's. So basically what I am saying is that for the money it would take to swap in an LS1 that is capable of the numbers you want to run, you could build a LT1 that is just as fast. It has been proven that if someone that knows LT1's builds it they can be just as fast as LS1's. The fastest N/A car was Joe O in a LT1 trans am... not sure if he still is or not, and the fastest 6 speed f-body is an LT1... now seems to me that if the LS1 was so much better neither one of the above records would stand.

I honestly think that LS1 is = to LT1 if the LT1 is in the right hands. Plus with an LT1 you have that "Ohhhhh you got a LT1 car?" response from everyone... SLEEPER. I pulled up in parking lots all over mississippi with an open y-pipe and draglites and NOONE looked at my car twice.... after I drug a couple 10 second cars they were alot more impressed than if I had "just another LS1."

LT1_King

iTrader: (1)

go with the LT1 because the money that you will spend swapping the LS1 into it you could build a healthy LT1 well in to the 11's or maybe even 10's non aspirated. stroke it and you will be happy.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

If you are starting go LSx hands down. Do not waste another dime on your LT1 if you do not have to.

If I was not already so invested in LTx crap I would be running a LSx setup...and I am still thinking about it.

Why you may ask? Limit on cubic inches and RPM are the biggest factors. LSx has got the after market tied up. yes there are a few bones coming out for LTx . Until they come out with an afordable 18 degree kit for the LTx it is no match for the LSx

LT1nitrouZ

I will agree to a degree with this... if you are going to try and run 8's its prolly easier to go LSx, also the fact that there are aftermarket blocks for LS1 cars help alot in that area. I still stick by the LT1 unless you are trying to run faster 9.5s. After that it is a toss up...

to humor me... what is the cheapest set of LSx heads that flow 370ish CFM?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

O_O No I didn't, that's amazing! Imagine the looks and confusion you'd cause by having a 454 LT1 lol

572ysc

LT1= Lots-Torque-1 which means lots of torque. I like the LT1 better.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (12)

wow lots of mis-information on both sides. to start with, an LT1 cant be bored and stroked to 427. most ive seen is just over 400 cubic inches. an ls1 swap also isnt hard nor does it have to be expensive.

i was going to ls1 swap my 94 z28 but i started the project wrong. i should have bought a complete running ls1 engine and tranny with harness and ecu. thats all you HAVE to have. ive seen auto ls1 combos as low as 2k. and t56 combos for as low as 3k. evidently the k member is ok to use from the lt1 car but having an ls1 k member makes it a bolt in swap. there is a bit of rewiring to do for the gauges to work but its nothing major. before you put the engine in the car, you put long tubes on it, put in a bigger cam and springs and a good intake (maybe heads as well, ive seen new stock assembled ls6 heads for 350 a pair several times) and you have a 400+rwhp capable engine and a MUCH more capable ecu for less than the price of a built lt1 bottom end and stand alone setup. or if you want to go bigger, im looking at a 383 ls1 stroker kit for 1500 that includes the entire bottom end. thats 500rwhp capable or more if you decide FI is your niche.

on the other hand you can build a 355 lt1 with a good set of internals, some trick flow heads and a mildly worked over intake with a d1sc setup on it and maybe touch 700rwhp.

obviously these are outrageous examples but a cammed ls1 will run better than a cammed lt1. it will get better gas mileage, have a better ecu to work it, have much more room for power output because of the better heads and intake setup and jus tbe a better all around motor. plus its lighter as well. none of this even mentions the damn opti.

go with what YOU want but just know an ls1 swap is NOT hard and if you do your homework (you dont need a donor car) it doesnt have to be expensive.

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

Ok, here's a simple approach:
If YOU want to do an LS1 swap, be aware it'll cost more than you expect, and take a lot longer.
So will building a fast LT1, or a fast LS1.

However... if I were gonna do an LS1, I would NOT do a swap, I'd buy an LS1 car.
LT4 is seriously overrated, and the LT4 cam is very dated. There's a lot better LT stuff out now than when that came out. While the LT4 manifold flows quite well, it's an awful expensive piece these days.

If I were doing LT1, I'd likely go 383/396, good heads, big cam, and rear turbo... and know I'd fail emissions on an OBD1.

Here's the ONE advantage LS has once you start to get serious: It'll be possible to make it 'meet emissions' for far more mods than an OBD1 LT, simply by playing with codes in the PCM.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

You are right we will agree to disagree

I will answer your question with a question. Have you priced a set of LT1 heads that flow that number? How about ablock to get a reliable 427 LTx cubic inches?

You are right I guess I just want a less radical 9 second combo and I know I can have it with a LSx

BTW Right now there is not the huge price differance there was years ago between the LTx and LSx.

We sell AFR heads and there is not a huge price differeance between LTx and LSx heads right now

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

peter griffin: "really, no one is gonna say it?"

"*sigh*"

"LS1's SUCK!!"

/end peter griffin


id take a 355 LT1 with a CC306, LT1 manifold ported all the way, 58mm TB, LT's with duals dumped, AFR (not ARF ellis lol) heads, a big mac, and a 12 bolt and id die happy.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (12)

minus the extra 5 cubes and the duals, that setup is going into my car. then i might build the ls1 block in my basement and go faster and get better gas mileage.

i think a lot people need to research the ls1 swap before they write it off.as cheap as a high mileage lt1 car is and as cheap as you can get an ls1 setup for, theres no reason not to IMO.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

you have M6? or A4? what gears for your 12 bolt?

id love to have that setup, but the car gets assraped (sniffer test) by california.

omaha stylee

I'll be the dick here.....lol

go get a V-Tec...... maddddd howspowaaaaaaaaaa yo


In all honesty cost them both out, and make an educated decision. I would like a big cubed forged bottom LT1 with a solid roller and 300 shot.......then again I would also like a big cubed LS1 with a turbo....... pick your poison. Remember you pay to play either way you go......

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

or a big cube LT1 with turbo