would a crank with 3.875" stroke, along with a 6.00" rod and SRP Forged Piston Set -5cc Valve Reliefs 4.030" bore be to much for an LT1. Or should I just go with the 3.75" stroke, 6.00 rod and same piston type

Or use Reverse Dome -16cc pistons with a 4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke, for 6.00" Rod

I am really looking for the best N/A set-up But I am stuck on these 2 set-ups

 

The 3.875 is for a 396 and with the 5 cc pistons will give a CR of 12.7 with stockchamber volume, 0.039" gasket and 0.005" deck. With 3.75" crank the CR will be slightly lower at 12.3.
Also watch out for very shalow compression height of the piston.

 

Thx for the Info helped alot

 

So both of his setups would work a lt1 block bored .30" over? Im also planning out a stroker motor to build

 

What should I have done or do to avoid this problem with building a 396 or 383.?

I am new to building strokers so I am trying to get all the info I can and basicly figure out my build before I start to go buy a bunch of parts. I will still be running the 2 bolt main block with ARP main stud kit so should I even attempt a 396 or would it be pushing the limits of the block.

 

I would look into the splayed 4 bolt conversion ...you wont regret it! take this from someone who wasted a 383 with a rod thru the block

 

Yup, I'm one of them.....4 bolt it....or I'll come after you...I messed up mine, so I picked up a real nice 383 setup from Golden, problems solved....

 

Have a reputable engine builder build it for you. Tell him how you'll use the car and what power expected, and let him figure all the details for you. These details will make make or break an engine.
You've mentioned using ARP studs on the 2-main block. Did you know you have to align hone the block for those? I also agree with the other posts regarding the 4 bolt mains.
A properly built 383 short block with forged internals can be had for $3500.