TycloneSS

Ok this is in my all wheel drive, 2 door, S10 Jimmy... heh I bought the truck after the original owner got sick and couldnt wrench anymore.

So Im just putting my truck together and want what everyone wants here... A reliable performer for the least amount of money. The top end is good to go as is the trans and transfer case... Its the bottom end of the motor that worries me.

Here is what the previous owner said, "I performed the 3rd oil change on the motor since I've had it, with less than 40 minutes total run time. Remember I dry fired the motor back when it was first purchased being lazy and excited at the same time. the motor had sat over a year w/o any oil running through it and cleaner being ran through it prior to that. There were shavings in the pan, was hoping it was just from the dry fire and that consecutive oil changes would chase all the shavings out and it would be ok, not perfect, just ok. Well, things are not looking good at all. oil came out a little more honey colored than last time, but was full of metal again. have a nice little metallic trail running down my oil pan. I pulled the filter apart and found all kinds of copper and silver tidbits just clumped up in the bottom of the oil filter and also in the media, along with tons of crust from the interior of the motor, after pulling it apart to replace the seals and install the cam, it looked like the motor had seen some serious heat in the caddy..... after I talked with a couple folks, sounds like a rod bearing has failed, still has good oil pressure (from the last time I ran it before oil change)"
(I have pictures of the oil and pan after the change attached)

So what do you guys think I should do here? Im no mechanic but I can read manuals and learn. lol I can pull the motor and take the top end off im sure at least. then bring the bottom to a shop... but what do i buy? Bearings? Rings? Pistons? 383 kit? I would like to stay at around $1000 maybe max out at $1500 if possible TOTAL...

Any help would be GREAT!

Here is my setup...

Drivetrain:
- 1996 Cadillac LT1 approx 70k mi
- 1997 Z28 SS heads & intake, ported, gasket matched, valve job
- Crane Cams 502
- MSD blaster coil,
- MSD 8.8mm wires
- NGK plugs
- MSD fuel pump
- cleaned injectors
- 1LE intake
- TB mod, MAF descreened, AIR removed
- new GM timing chain and gears
- OBD1 ECM, cable, software, and knock sensor
- Oil cooler w/ remote oil filter
- 4.3L 4x4 oilpan modified for the lt1 (lengthened, oil sending unit bung welded to the side)
1996 4L60-E completely rebuilt to stock specs
- 2000 stall converter
- Tranny cooler
- Borg Warner 4472 all wheel drive transfer case
- 3.73s, rear posi, front open diff

siniSSter

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like your bearings are wearing out slowly. I'm supprised it still has good oil pressure. You might need a rebuild, but if I were you, I would get professional advice nearby, and pull it apart myself as a learning experience. Just leave it to a pro to arm the shortblock for you.

TycloneSS

I feel no ignorant asking these questions... but what kind of shop and what would they look for anyway??

Thanks!

siniSSter

iTrader: (2)

Just a reputable shop you know of that will assmeble the shortblock correctly, just remember to think of the future. Forged is usally always the best option when power adders come. On the Pistons make sure you choose the proper cc sized. ex. flat top or dished..When it comes to stuff like this make sure you do it right the first time, or you'
ll pay later. On the cubic inch size, its all about money, and how much you have. In my opinion a good forged 355 will do good just well. Let me know if you need any advice on anything. I just built a 383 stroker all Eagle Forged....

TycloneSS

Hey thanks for the help. Ill hit up some of my F-body bussies out here and see what they say about a shop that would be able to help.

I think 355 sounds good as a 383 might cause me some HP troubles with my rear end, AWD and such...

TycloneSS

Maybe Ill get more replies next time if i dont write so much lol