lt1 bolt ons....really worth it??
lt1 bolt ons....really worth it?? I was wondering if anyone knows how much horsepower the cheap bolt ons for the lt1 are REALLY supposed to give you. Ive just recently installed 1.6 rockers & springs, air foil, underdrive pulley, 160 t-stat, and soon the lt1 edit, and i already have a fully functional ram air. I havnt even driven the car yet with these "mods" on the car, because i fried the transmission and its getting rebuilt. I know these mods are all little mods that arent going to make a whole world of difference, and as much as i would love to throw some new heads and a cam on the motor, im not made of money so i was just wondering if anyone could give me a realistic estimate of where ill be at with horsepower and 1/4 mile times.
Originally Posted by 95firehawklt1
I know these mods are all little mods that arent going to make a whole world of difference, and as much as i would love to throw some new heads and a cam on the motor, im not made of money so i was just wondering if anyone could give me a realistic estimate of where ill be at with horsepower and 1/4 mile times.
Some of those you mentioned are basic bolt ons.
Unless you like the Ram Air for its looks, the actual performance from it isn't as a good as an aftermarket Cold Air Intake.
Headers. Its Just that Simple.
A nice exhaust. Some catbacks are Ok but True Duals sounds so damn pretty.
You can get intake elbows, lower stats, underdrive pulleys , a TB coolant bypass a biggrt TB... all this crap to make it run quicker, but the main 3 bolt ons are intake, headers and exhaust.
Then you go from there.
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the thing is, all my mods cant really be visual....dont ask. this is only as of right now though. i understand that this doesnt leave me with much AT ALL to work with, but im just curious as to what i might be looking at for now.
If you want to get something out of your mod money stop wasting it on crap like the airfoil and UD pulley. The UD pullies get a good reputation from OTHER engines where the WP is belt driven and much of the gains come from slowing that, the LT1 pump is not belt driven so you see relatively little gains.
Rockers and springs are great and one of the first steps to bigger mods, 160 stat is good if tuned for which you said you are working on doing next so you have some good stuff going on.
Rockers and springs are great and one of the first steps to bigger mods, 160 stat is good if tuned for which you said you are working on doing next so you have some good stuff going on.
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If it can't be visual (for whatever silly reason you have, since we can't ask), get some good cast stock heads and another intake then have them ported to hell and back. Can't notice either of those if they're stock. Get the tranny built to the hill, you'll love it.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
can a venture a guess you are a kid and Daddy does not want you modding the car????
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Here's another mod to be quicker: Lose the heavy 17 ZR1s, go back to a stock 16 rim, and some sticky tires. Rotating mass kills accelleration.
Long tube headers. 15-25 hp as is, more with future mods.
LT1edit is a METHOD of achieving improvements, by properly tuning for your mods. Not really needed at all with the mods you have, but can maximize the benefit of the 7-10% more airflow you should see from the RRs. Also note: it is a way to destroy your engine instantly, if you don't know what you're doing with the tune, or try to maximize power without paying attention to air-fuel ratio or timing requirements. Really needs a wideband O2 and the use of a dyno to get max benefit, and a good tuner to get max benefit SAFELY.
Automatic? Have someone who KNOWS what to do with a 4L60E do the work. If they say 'vac mod' THEY DON'T KNOW. Didn't see where you were located, but get references from people they built 4L60Es for in Fbody vehicles, preferably who are running a good second faster than you ever plan to., and then have it built for more power than you plan to make. GET A TRANS COOLER. The bigger the better. Built transmissions NEED extra cooling. Cool transmissions live MUCH longer. Stall designed for future mods is good, too; you need to be realistic where you're going with the car. A stall won't give you power, but sure will let you use the power you have.
There is a local trans shop that has built 4L60Es to hold up to 10.50 runs for several years without needing refreshed, and without needing the vac mod. His fully built trans runs under 1700. It CAN be done right for a reasonable price.
Long tube headers. 15-25 hp as is, more with future mods.
LT1edit is a METHOD of achieving improvements, by properly tuning for your mods. Not really needed at all with the mods you have, but can maximize the benefit of the 7-10% more airflow you should see from the RRs. Also note: it is a way to destroy your engine instantly, if you don't know what you're doing with the tune, or try to maximize power without paying attention to air-fuel ratio or timing requirements. Really needs a wideband O2 and the use of a dyno to get max benefit, and a good tuner to get max benefit SAFELY.
Automatic? Have someone who KNOWS what to do with a 4L60E do the work. If they say 'vac mod' THEY DON'T KNOW. Didn't see where you were located, but get references from people they built 4L60Es for in Fbody vehicles, preferably who are running a good second faster than you ever plan to., and then have it built for more power than you plan to make. GET A TRANS COOLER. The bigger the better. Built transmissions NEED extra cooling. Cool transmissions live MUCH longer. Stall designed for future mods is good, too; you need to be realistic where you're going with the car. A stall won't give you power, but sure will let you use the power you have.
There is a local trans shop that has built 4L60Es to hold up to 10.50 runs for several years without needing refreshed, and without needing the vac mod. His fully built trans runs under 1700. It CAN be done right for a reasonable price.
Bolt on mods are worth it if you ask me. The increase the amount of HP/TQ you produce.
I hope you are getting a GOOD TC when the trans goes back in, the TC will pick you up more than anything else you do besided weight removal and running in good air.
If you are broke like me, then take as much weight out of the car as you can live without, agree that mine is a bit extreme for most people but it's mine.
I hope you are getting a GOOD TC when the trans goes back in, the TC will pick you up more than anything else you do besided weight removal and running in good air.
If you are broke like me, then take as much weight out of the car as you can live without, agree that mine is a bit extreme for most people but it's mine.
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
Bolt on mods are worth it if you ask me. The increase the amount of HP/TQ you produce.
I hope you are getting a GOOD TC when the trans goes back in, the TC will pick you up more than anything else you do besided weight removal and running in good air.
If you are broke like me, then take as much weight out of the car as you can live without, agree that mine is a bit extreme for most people but it's mine.
I hope you are getting a GOOD TC when the trans goes back in, the TC will pick you up more than anything else you do besided weight removal and running in good air.
If you are broke like me, then take as much weight out of the car as you can live without, agree that mine is a bit extreme for most people but it's mine.
Originally Posted by Boodyrider
Lose the heavy 17 ZR1s, go back to a stock 16 rim, and some sticky tires. Rotating mass kills accelleration.
My Z28 came with 16" Salad Shooters, and I now I have 17" GM ZR1's off a 2001 SS.
The 17's are lighter.
AFS wheels are real light too.
Originally Posted by burnzilla
My Z28 came with 16" Salad Shooters, and I now I have 17" GM ZR1's off a 2001 SS.
The 17's are lighter.
AFS wheels are real light too.
