Stock bottom end?
Stock bottom end? So I did a quick search and browsed through a few pages of threads and couldn't find an answer, sorry if this is a common question 
How capable is the stock rotating assembly of a '96 - '97 LT1? I'm researching a medium-effort SR heads/cam setup and would like to keep the stock crank at least (rods too if it’s practical) to save some $$, and for the bragging rights too 
-I hear that for the cost of re-building the stock rods, you could just buy some new H-beams... is that true?
-What about the crank? What procedures should I go through to make sure it’s up to snuff? Right now I know I'll have to have it balanced & turned, and I'd like to look into cryogenically treating it and the rods as well. Anybody with cryo experience?
-I plan on replacing the pistons with some quality forged pieces to replace the stock ones.
-and the mains. Some 4-bolt splayed billet caps. Available where? and at what cost?
Am I missing anything here? Thanks a ton! LS1tech FTW!
How capable is the stock rotating assembly of a '96 - '97 LT1? I'm researching a medium-effort SR heads/cam setup and would like to keep the stock crank at least (rods too if it’s practical) to save some $$, and for the bragging rights too -I hear that for the cost of re-building the stock rods, you could just buy some new H-beams... is that true?
-What about the crank? What procedures should I go through to make sure it’s up to snuff? Right now I know I'll have to have it balanced & turned, and I'd like to look into cryogenically treating it and the rods as well. Anybody with cryo experience?
-I plan on replacing the pistons with some quality forged pieces to replace the stock ones.
-and the mains. Some 4-bolt splayed billet caps. Available where? and at what cost?
Am I missing anything here? Thanks a ton! LS1tech FTW!
You might not want to listen to anyone who needs heads/cam and a lot of nitrous to run 11s see my sig.
The stock rotating assembly is pretty good but if screwing with it beyond bearings just replace it all.
The stock rotating assembly is pretty good but if screwing with it beyond bearings just replace it all.
So stupid question, say I use splayed caps with the stocker (cryo'ed or not). Aren't the caps still good for a different crank in the future if I decided to switch to a stroker?
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
You might not want to listen to anyone who needs heads/cam and a lot of nitrous to run 11s see my sig.
The stock rotating assembly is pretty good but if screwing with it beyond bearings just replace it all.
The stock rotating assembly is pretty good but if screwing with it beyond bearings just replace it all.
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From: Clarksville, IN
Originally Posted by A-man930
So stupid question, say I use splayed caps with the stocker (cryo'ed or not). Aren't the caps still good for a different crank in the future if I decided to switch to a stroker?
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According to the results with cyrotreatment from 300 degrees Below gray cast has a 97% increase of strength if tempered at -300* for a 24 hr soak time. They are finding better results with a 32 hr soak instead, according to the tech that I use.
As far as splayed main caps go it has cost me $375 for line boring and the line hone of the main caps. But that was because the machinest is a freind of mine. The other quotes that I have gotten ranged from $475 to $550 from some of the other local machine shops. I have had the best luck using the Eagle main cap set. They required minimal fitting and can be found on ebay for around $90 plus shipping.
As far as the connecting rods I would just sell your stock rods and buy a new set. Scat sells a nice I beam rod with 7/16" rod bolts for about $260 plus shipping on ebay. They are rated to handle 700 HP @ 7500 RPM.
As far as splayed main caps go it has cost me $375 for line boring and the line hone of the main caps. But that was because the machinest is a freind of mine. The other quotes that I have gotten ranged from $475 to $550 from some of the other local machine shops. I have had the best luck using the Eagle main cap set. They required minimal fitting and can be found on ebay for around $90 plus shipping.
As far as the connecting rods I would just sell your stock rods and buy a new set. Scat sells a nice I beam rod with 7/16" rod bolts for about $260 plus shipping on ebay. They are rated to handle 700 HP @ 7500 RPM.
97% 
I think that'll do. So ~$90 for a set of Eagle mains, and ~$550 for a line hone, plus the cost of the rods and the other machine work... I wonder how much $$ I'll be saving by going this route, if any. Any more out there?
I think that'll do. So ~$90 for a set of Eagle mains, and ~$550 for a line hone, plus the cost of the rods and the other machine work... I wonder how much $$ I'll be saving by going this route, if any. Any more out there? How much should I expect to pay for a quality forged stroker crank? Anyone know how much 300 below charges for the cryo treatment? (sent them an email, haven't heard back)
The guy that I use in Grand Juction, CO charges $112.50 for a crank. To look at his other prices go to www.cryogenictechnologies.com, and make sure that you scroll to the bottom of the price list for costs on your main engine parts. As for the crank you will be looking at around $580 plus shipping for a 4340 forged crank.