the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I got you now, took me a sec to trace that in my head. Mine has been running like that for a long time, and we had it tuned to the readings that the computer was getting overall. It might have a different result on a stock Engine.

bmccrary

Buffman, thanks for the oil filter links. Some one has put alot of time into researching those filters. I will look more in depth later on.

Man this breather thing is getting nuts, Mike, one of the guys in the car group. His issue was the un metered air, anything coming or going in the engine should be recorded just for the sake of knowing exactly whats going on. But then again he doesn't run a MAF on his LS1, oh well.

As for the seperator, I don't see it as something that makes a difference in the car, but more as something to watch for saftey reasons. I mean in all honesty, what could it hurt?

-bryan

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Just for the record, my BLMs were always at a dead 128.

foggedz

iTrader: (1)

I hate the fel pro gaskets. I just got a set of the GM performace intake gaskets. They seem to be much better quality.

Old Hot Rodder

copied and pasted from the second link provided;

Conclusion

Good construction, good flow, good filtering

In the low-priced group, the AC PF, Purolator PremiumPlus, STP, and SuperTech appear to be good choices. These four filters are "best buys" because they doing most things well and are in the low-priced group.

In the mid-priced group, the Baldwin and WIX appear to be good choices. Both have construction that is excellent.

In the high-priced group, the Amsoil, Mobil 1, Fram XG, and K&N appear to be good choices.

Excellent filtering

The Fram TG and Purolator PureOne have excellent filtering. They do flow less than filters with less filtering. Both are in the mid-priced group. The AC UPF also has excellent filtering, however, the UPF1218 is no longer manufactured. The UPF series does include other filter applications that are still available.

Excellent flow

The Hastings, Donaldson, and Fleetgard all have excellent flow. Not surprisingly, they are also have larger pore sized media. The Purolator PremiumPlus and Amsoil flow less than these filters, but still better than average and have good or very good filtration.


Thank you for the information provided. But as you can tell, what's been posted isn't supported by these test results. It shouldn't be to hard to find the results needed from another test, or article writen or done by someone else. Most of these 'tests' are done by people and companies with agenda, axes to grind, and heartfelt opinions. It doesn't mean the information is incorrect, but perhaps tilted just a bit to show the point that the writer is
is trying to make.

I've studied analises, tests, and comparisons on different oil types (mineral, semi synthetic, full synthetic, automotive, diesel, motorcycle) and from what I've found and can detefmine there are very few bad oils and/or filters out there. Most of the mass produced products in this catagory are made by companies that are at least as worried about getting sued as they are in providing the consumer with a product that does as it is supposed to and advertised. So while you might wind up with something that might not be as "good" as a competitiors, the chances of it being bad or faulty are remote.

The argument with oil filters basically comes down to being the same one for air filters. If it flows more, it probably doesn't filter as well either. Especially when dealing with the various media's that are mass produced and affordable to the average person.

The same can be said of brands and types of oil. The only test on oils I've ever seen that I didn't come away from feeling that the writer was pushing his opinion on me instead of the facts was done by consumer reports some time back, and it's results were inconclusive for trying to prove one was better than another.

However, just for fun, if want to get a real argument going, ask a motorcyclist what brand and type of oil he uses, and why. You'll get everything from whatever my car/truck uses to all out diesel oil to motorcycle specific oils. All of it will be the best, and anyone that uses anything else isn't using the right stuff, paying to much money for it, going to ruin their engine, etc.

Truth be told though, get a good quality oil, good quality filter, keep it changed frequently and you'll be fine.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Not completely related but worth noting, I am putting a new oil pan on my motor and I bought the GM gasket this time. The gasket on it now is Fel Pro rubber and I could never get all the leaks out of it. I did use Fel Pro intake gasket and I think I got all the leaks this time. The mistake with my intake gasket is I did a cam swap and I just didn't get it sealed well with it being in the car and I used RTV red which I didn't think twice about at the time. This time I used the black. If I had to do it all again, I would probably have bought an OEM gasket set.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

always, not matter what you were doing huh . I have mine locked at WOT throttle, and I've tinkered around with hours of datalogging and even mine arent that perfect.

Old Hot Rodder, I dont like Frams much for the fact that When I tear the filters down, compared to others for the price, the build quality is shitty I use AC Delco Ultraguard Gold Filters. Same price from Dal as what you can buy a fram for almost.

foggedz, what kind of felpro gaskets did you use? The one kit from the autostore? Those are no better than the stock OEM ones in My opinion. The Printo Seal ones I mentioned are a very good gasket


dhdenney, did you use good RTV (I use the right stuff or ultra copper) sealant and allow it to cure when you installed the oil pan gasket. Or did you not use sealant; and that would prolly be why it leaks

Spitfire557

iTrader: (3)

I've always been under the impression that ANY loctite on bolts going into the heads is a real bad idea, and it's easy to see why. Care to explain how this is any different?

buffman

iTrader: (9)

what's wrong with using thread locker on the intake bolts. We have a dry intake manifold, we dont have to worry about coolant coming up through intake bolts. They're just holes with threads in them. So what am I missing.. I'm not talking about the get the torch out to remove locktite, just the standard blue

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Well once in a blue moon when I do get my laptop out to check my parameters, BLMs are almost always 128. Every now and then bank 2 will spike 3 or 4 numbers.

About the pan, I used RTV red, but it's been so long since I've done it that I don't remember how long I let it set before I installed. Where does one pickup the right stuff or ultra copper? I don't think I've heard of either but I will look for one or the other at your recommendation.

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

I was concerned about the whole breather thing a few months ago, I found this online, its like a breather but still uses the pcv hose thing so it doesn't suck up oil.
It was $4 at an autozone.
Also heres the link the original page:

http://collop.cz28.com/custom2.html

buffman

iTrader: (9)

the Ultra Copper should be right along with the black RTV and everything else. In a goldish color tube. "The Right Stuff" is in an aersol like can. It's $12.99 a can, but well worth the cost..

bmccrary

Man this thread has been very informative. I must admit that this thread alone covers the intake situation completely. Thanks for the info guys and keep it going. I am learning alot of this forum.

-bryan

Old Hot Rodder

Not going to deny that for a minute. But the point was (is?) was it the same 'level' of Fram than the others used? You mention that you use the AC Delco Ultraguard Gold, when doing your comparison did you cut open a standard Fram and an Ultraguard Gold? Have you gotten into one of the higher end Frams? Also, when you say the contruction was "Shitty", was it dangerous? Did it appear that it would fail, or was it just built differently than another? Then we go back to the above question? Top shelf stuff, or price buster quality level?

I haven't spent as much time lately doing product reseach on automotive products as my life and job revolves around motorcycles and powersports products these days. But, FWIW, in the powersports business there are really only three comapnies making EVERY oil filter on the market, including the O.E.M.'s. Yet these filters are all over the board price wise, and a few even offer features that the others don't. But they are all made to, or above O.E.M. specs, and many carry a 'warranty' claiming that if you suffer a filter related engine failure they will foot the bill for a rebuild. The problem here is, can anyone name first, or even second hand knowledge (noot some of this I read it on the internet so it must be true stuff) of a filter, or even oil, related engine failure? Not likely. The stuff, even the cheap stuff, is just to good these days for the most part.

Oil is much the same way. None of the O.E.M.'s make oil. They all sell it under their name. Honda, for example, has a company in Florida do the chemistry for the additive package, and Mobil 'brews' the oil using there own base stock. Honda doesn't sell a pure synthetic oil because Mobil will not use their synthetic base for anything but their own brand oil.

Anyway, as Bryan said. An informative thread that I've enjoyed being a part of.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

I did not realize that Ultra Copper was a Permatex brand. I'll have to look around, cuz I don't think Wal-Mart has it.

jst

Will a bad pcv valve cause a intake leak?Too much presseure in crank case?

knight17Z

iTrader: (5)

can anyone answer that Question plz

bmccrary

ttt, man this is one is back from the dead.

knight17Z

iTrader: (5)

come on someone has to care (other than me)

street demon2k3

iTrader: (3)

I remember when i had a lot of oil leaks, a mechanic told me it might be due to the pcv system not operating properly. It could cause excessive crankcase pressure to push oil into the path of least resistance. dont quote me though, cuz i might be wrong. I added the BF412 breather and it helps a little bit, but i left my pcv valve open and plugged the vacuum line. dont know why but my car ran shitty with the pcv system back to stock. might be that the car already has problems and the air pulled from the crankcase isnt helping the combustion process. IDK but maybe someone else might chime in.