Making a N/A 383 LE3 last.
12-09-2006, 08:22 AM
#1
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Making a N/A 383 LE3 last. I am decided on doing a LE3 package for my car soon in late Jan. I have somebody that will help me build my 383 shortblock, that has built his LT1 383(experienced machinist) .
My question is what do I need to do to the shortblock to make it last with the rpm without going overboard for my needs with the motor?
I am gonna be running this on the street and track every so often. Going to be a weekend car eventually. I am not going to spray the motor however, so I am not trying to go overboard forging everything. I just don't want the bearings going out too soon because of the higher rpm. What do i need to do to prevent this?
My question is what do I need to do to the shortblock to make it last with the rpm without going overboard for my needs with the motor?
I am gonna be running this on the street and track every so often. Going to be a weekend car eventually. I am not going to spray the motor however, so I am not trying to go overboard forging everything. I just don't want the bearings going out too soon because of the higher rpm. What do i need to do to prevent this?
12-09-2006, 06:41 PM
#2
A strong foundation (block) and lighter pistons and rods....
Seriously to make a 383 bulletproof takes a 4 bolt main. With no N2O you don't need it though.... only time i've seen LE3 383 setups get hurt with 2 bolt mains is what N2O.
A good piston like a Mahle Pro Pack would be my choice. A H Beam rod usually is overkill and will work great, but a forged I beam replacement rod with cap screw bolts will also work.
Good machine work, attention to every tolerance and if it's not in spec MAKE IT THAT WAY and ARP studs in the mains. That should get you where you need to be.
Bret
Seriously to make a 383 bulletproof takes a 4 bolt main. With no N2O you don't need it though.... only time i've seen LE3 383 setups get hurt with 2 bolt mains is what N2O.
A good piston like a Mahle Pro Pack would be my choice. A H Beam rod usually is overkill and will work great, but a forged I beam replacement rod with cap screw bolts will also work.
Good machine work, attention to every tolerance and if it's not in spec MAKE IT THAT WAY and ARP studs in the mains. That should get you where you need to be.
Bret