LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Cam Parts...

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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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Default Cam Parts...

Well im getting closer to ordering my cam parts and I want to run the list by you guys to make sure everything is right.

ARP-134-7101 Rocker Arm Studs, High Performance, 3/8-24 in. Thread, 1.75 in. Effective Stud Length, Chevy, Small Block, Kit $31.95 (Not 100% here?)

CCA-07-503-8 Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 276/281, Lift .503/.510, Chevy, LT1/LT4, Each $249.95

CCA-1302-16 Rocker Arms, Stud Mount, Full Roller, Steel, 1.6 Ratio, Fits 3/8 in. Stud, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 16 $269.95

CCA-26918-16 Valve Springs, Single, 1.055 in. Outside Diameter, 313 lbs./in. Rate, 1.085 in. Coil Bind Height, Set of 16 $179.95

CCA-4808-8 Guideplates, Flat, 5/16 in. Pushrod Size, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 8 $21.88 (Need to be 3/8" right?)

CCA-614-16 Valve Locks, Machined, Hardened Steel, 10 Degree, 1-Groove, 11/32 in. Valve Stem, Set of 16 $25.95 (Not sure if these are right?)

CCA-7808-16 Pushrods, Assembled, High Energy, Steel, Welded Ball Tips, Oiled, Heat Treated, Set of 16 $34.88

CCA-795-16 Valve Spring Retainers, Steel, 10 Degree, 1.095 in. Outside Diameter, .640 in. Inside Diameter, Set of 16 $50.69 (Have no clue if these are right?)

NAL-12370835 Timing Chain and Gear Set, Extreme Duty, Single Roller, Steel Sprockets, Chevy, 350, LT1, Set $245.95

NAL-12527741 Water Pump, Mechanical, High-Volume, Aluminum, Natural, Chevy/Pontiac, Camaro/Firebird, 5.7L, Each $185.95

This is all from Summit...if im missing anything or need to change anything please let me know. I know I need the gasket kit from Thunder Racing, and all the fluids.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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I am pretty sure you cannot run guide plates with 3/8 studs just get the 7/16 they are better and not hard to do the base of our stock studs are 7/16 just the top is 3/8 so just buy full 7/16 rocker studs and bolt them up like normal. ARP makes them they are just a little more i think they are $50
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:05 PM
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also i don't know what RRs you have but looks like you are going with comp pro mags they are a good RR getting them myself. just be sure to get the non-self aligning. and 7/16 stud size if you decied to upgrade your studs.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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The RR's are pro mags and they are the NSA. I will get the full 7/16 and the guideplates then.

Thanks
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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How long should the studs be? 1.75, 1.77, 1.90?

These are the only ones I could find...http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Last edited by Mystic95; Dec 22, 2006 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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What about this timing chain?

Timing Set

I would have to use an EWP with that one right?

How reliable are EWP compared to a mechanical? The car is my DD so i need reliability.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 11:44 PM
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you want something like this

GM-12370835 GM LT4 Extreme Duty Timing Chain Set
includes true roller chain, timing gear, crank gear $289.97

i found it here along with some other parts you might want.

http://www.cmotorsports.com/93-97-fbody/engine.html
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 11:46 PM
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Or you could get the gmpp 1 in summit it has the WP gear also.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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hey guys i'm getting ready to do a cam swap as well i was wondering are those springs listed above good for the stock heads and also can they handle the lift numbers of the Gm847 thanks for any info

Jason
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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If you go to an EWP you do not have to use a LT1/4 timing chain. You can use a standard SBC timing chain. ALOT CHEAPER. my question would be why cant u use 3/8 studs with guide plates?
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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I don't know if the LT1 heads have a blind hole for the rocker arm studs or not. If they do you cannot get them any longer than the depth of the threads in the hole. If they are not blind you don't want them sticking down into the intake port to mess up the flow. Maybe wait until you get the heads off and then take a measurement unless someone knows for sure.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 10:05 PM
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The head holes for the studs are heli-coiled at the factory. If you are replacing studs, make sure that the length that goes into the head is not too long. You don't want to bottom out the stud in the head. This can happen if you get studs that are meant to be used with guideplates and then the guideplates are not used.
The threads on the head side of stock studs are pretty short. I would not recommend using the stock studs with guideplates.

go here has some good info

http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
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