Alternator Relocation Kit
#1
Alternator Relocation Kit
Where can I get an alternator relocation kit so I can use some nice tall fabricated centerbolt valve covers? I want to keep my power steering, since the car will be street driven, but AC I really don't care about.
#2
www.thunderracing.com - Madman Sells it.
www.sjmmanufacturing.com - SJM sells it.
They are both about $180.
Tony.
www.sjmmanufacturing.com - SJM sells it.
They are both about $180.
Tony.
#4
Well ****. Thats what I get for not reading slow.
97,
Your pretty much SOL if you want to keep Power Steering. I dont think there is kit out there to relocate the ALT and Keep the PS.
Tony.
97,
Your pretty much SOL if you want to keep Power Steering. I dont think there is kit out there to relocate the ALT and Keep the PS.
Tony.
#5
http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/...t1altbracketV2
Allows for keeping your AC & PowerSteering pump. It's a great piece of work, what I have on mine.
Allows for keeping your AC & PowerSteering pump. It's a great piece of work, what I have on mine.
#6
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Originally Posted by BRETTINATOR
http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/...t1altbracketV2
Allows for keeping your AC & PowerSteering pump. It's a great piece of work, what I have on mine.
Allows for keeping your AC & PowerSteering pump. It's a great piece of work, what I have on mine.
Im sorry but that is HIDIOUS!
#7
Sadly enough, I do not think there's a kit out there for me I removed my smog pump, and in it's place there's a Vortech T Trim . All of the kits recommended move the alternator to where my blower is, or I have to get rid of my power steering. AC I don't care about, but it seems there isn't a kit that utilizes the compressors location
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#9
Our kits move the alternator down low where in about the position of the AC compressor. You completely remove the whole access. bracket deleting PS and AC. It cleans up the engine bay on the passenger side tremendously while reducing quite a bit of weight. It makes working on the engine bay simplistic and helps with air flow!
We produced a setup for a short period of time similar to what you suggested BUT the MAIN reason we have an alternator relocation kit is to reduce drastic weight while cleaning up the engine bay. Anything else, really does not fit the bill.
To do what you are suggesting really without the benefits is cost prohibative. My suggestion is if you want to keep PS etc...just purchase the covers you prefer and have them custom fitted from a fabricator who can re-weld the area that gives you problems (around the alternator). You'll end up spending about the same amount of money and not have to deal with a new kit that really does nothing for weight or cleaning up the engine bay.
Good luck.
We produced a setup for a short period of time similar to what you suggested BUT the MAIN reason we have an alternator relocation kit is to reduce drastic weight while cleaning up the engine bay. Anything else, really does not fit the bill.
To do what you are suggesting really without the benefits is cost prohibative. My suggestion is if you want to keep PS etc...just purchase the covers you prefer and have them custom fitted from a fabricator who can re-weld the area that gives you problems (around the alternator). You'll end up spending about the same amount of money and not have to deal with a new kit that really does nothing for weight or cleaning up the engine bay.
Good luck.
#11
Originally Posted by the_merv
He needs to keep the Power Steering..these kind of Cars I wouldn't delete that IMO..
But I also hear what SJM is saying too, and the main reason why I wanted to move my alt down there was to cleanup the top of the compartment a little, and make it easier to remove and reinstall aftermarket valve covers. Guess I'll have to do some modifying to the ones I want to get...
#14
Originally Posted by the_merv
I got 285's on the front.. that's alot of armstrong steering.
Skinnies all the time on my car.
I tend to forget that not everyone is a drag racer.
#15
I like the Drag Racing, but it is setup for cornering also, so got to have them fat tires on it for the handling, and the Brakes. It stops from 80 to 0 in about 150ft, so I am not complaining..
I had to do a quick stop cause some idiot pulled right out infront of me, my friend just about bounced his head off of the Dash Board before the Seat Belt locked up.
I had to do a quick stop cause some idiot pulled right out infront of me, my friend just about bounced his head off of the Dash Board before the Seat Belt locked up.
#16
Removing PS is better for handling in my opinion NOT worse. The stock setup is WAAY to soft and doesn't provide good feedback on the road. Even with "fat" tires. It is TOO overpowered.
Skinny tires with !PS feels similar to stock..Just slightly stiffer. Larger tires with !PS feels nice and firm and response much better on road racing applications. If you’re concerned with difficulty parallel parking etc…then setting the car up for “road race” setups is not important. If spending most of the driving time is parallel parking or the like…don’t change a thing.
If you want to retain PS, then leave the stock bracket alone...either modify the stock one like you saw in that one attempt by going to an auto parts store and picking up an additional pulley, then go to the hardware store and pick up a few pieces of metal to support the alt on the driver’s side.
When we had a kit that worked as you had wished (keeping alt on the driver’s side WITH PS) we designed an entirely new bracket that replaced the stock one completly and moved the components around and enabled you to keep PS but just remove AC. It worked fantastic.
Most did not want to spend the money on the kit for essentially little gain with the exception to move the alternator and other components around slightly. (This is why we stopped manufacturing due to others complaining it was too expensive for what it does).
The other design as shown above is not good for blower applications at all. THIS is why I mentioned to just save your money and have the passenger side valve cover modified if the main reason to attempt any of this is purely for the valve covers.
Skinny tires with !PS feels similar to stock..Just slightly stiffer. Larger tires with !PS feels nice and firm and response much better on road racing applications. If you’re concerned with difficulty parallel parking etc…then setting the car up for “road race” setups is not important. If spending most of the driving time is parallel parking or the like…don’t change a thing.
If you want to retain PS, then leave the stock bracket alone...either modify the stock one like you saw in that one attempt by going to an auto parts store and picking up an additional pulley, then go to the hardware store and pick up a few pieces of metal to support the alt on the driver’s side.
When we had a kit that worked as you had wished (keeping alt on the driver’s side WITH PS) we designed an entirely new bracket that replaced the stock one completly and moved the components around and enabled you to keep PS but just remove AC. It worked fantastic.
Most did not want to spend the money on the kit for essentially little gain with the exception to move the alternator and other components around slightly. (This is why we stopped manufacturing due to others complaining it was too expensive for what it does).
The other design as shown above is not good for blower applications at all. THIS is why I mentioned to just save your money and have the passenger side valve cover modified if the main reason to attempt any of this is purely for the valve covers.
#19
i drove my car without an accessory belt on it a few minutes, now this is with the ps pump and all the lines hooked up and 275's up front and it was a ******* bitch. I wanted to delete PS anyways and was thinking about just getting rid of the pump and running the stock rack but what a bitch, i had to wrestle the wheel for every inch. Also i know madman sells a manual steering rack but i heard you can only use it for skinny's. I would much prefer to have manual steering but the PS rack definitely is not made for that