wow I got about 1/3rd that in the intake, throttle body, fuel lines and regulator. Guess I got a better deal that I thought. Totally different setups though and yours does look much nicer and the Super vic should be alittle better than my setup.

Otherwhitemeat, wouldn't the windshield be a problem with doing that?

 

Tim, what ever happened to the Vette?

 

its media blasted and stripped. Nothing but a shell and a frame. In the mean time I picked up a 67 camaro and am doing it to practice and learn for the vette. I'm learning how to do paint prep from a friend of mine that is very very very good. Doing it in a pro-toruing setup also so I will find out what not to do or upgrade for the vette build. Oh..I do have a 383 lt1/6 speed combo that is going in the vette now..hehehe. I will probably end up going ahead and yank the body off the frame on the vette..do it right the first time you know.

 

95 formula which set up did you run 10s with in 1/4?

 

I went 10.93 @ 125.8 with a 1.47 60' Na on my old old lt1 heads/intake and everything else being the same. Meaning my old 255/263 656/228 cam motion solid roller with 1.52 pro mag lifters, and 355 bottom end. Ran 4.71 gears and was around 3400 lbs. With this setup it made 428rhwp/407 rwtq
I went a best of 10.39@131.6 1.42 60' all motor by changing to the lt4 heads /intake and changing to 1.6 Jesel sportman shaft mount rocers. 476 rwhp/408 rwtq. Both motors ran pump gas and I actually lost some compression when I changed over to the lt4 setup. Hope that answers your question..if not let me know.

We will see how I do with the same setup as the 10.39 with a new cam, fresh rebuilt 355, and the new intake setup. I changed no parts in the shortblock except new coated bearings and the heads are unchanged. The old shortblock had 5 years of racing on it.

 

i want to put together a 355 with either forged pistons and rods or lightweight still undecided. i know im going to be using stock heads just getting them ported and want to get a custom grind cam. what would you recommend for me to do to get the most power out of this but not spending crazy amount of money

 

I went with eagle h beam rods and ross pistons. I've been happy with them. There are lots of good parts out there that are affordable you just have to find what you feel best with. Also there are lots of good head porters around. The lt1 is basically a small block chevy so anyone that does good chevy heads should be able to produce a good lt1 head.

 

Motor went in last night. Distributor fit fine but the Throttle body hit with the 1" spacer on it. I knew I had to trim the cowl before I started but wanted to see how close it was. Without the spacer it would have fit but would have been right up against with about 3/4 of an inch to the cowl. But..plenty of room now. I will post pics when I get everything hooked up.

 

kinda figured the dist. would be close.. glad to hear that it all worked out...

definately post pics! wanna see what I'm up against when I switch to the single plane as well...

 

Awesome man. Question for you, I've always wondered if the crab style MSD dist could be removed in an fbody but the type you have has to be near impossible. Then again how often to these type dist's have to be pulled, I mean there isn't that much to them, geared shaft off the cam and all the guts are up top somewhat easy to get to with a SuperVic.

 

I will get some pics..still hooking stuff up when I get time..lol.

I know I can't pull the distrib with it in the car with the style I have. If I cut the bottom of the cowl enough then maybe..but the windshield would play a part. I'm not sure how much shorter the crab style is that I have so I can't help ya there. I'm told that once its synced up with the computer you lock it down and forget about it...lets hope that is true..lol. It will be easy to get to with the clearanced cowl..If I pulled the TB it would be really really easy to get too.

 

good point, you'll have to post up some vids, etc once you crank this beast

 

Even with the crab cap distributor you are probably not going to be able to get it out without lowering the k-member. I have owned bolth style distributors and the crab cab is about 2.5" shorter than the Mallory dist. in the initial pics. As far as the reliability of the distributors mentioned here, I have run them in race & street motors with years of service with only cap & rotor changes.

 

looks like the front of my motor now good by opti

 

didn't mean to rebring this post back up but I had to ask what is the cover on the front and where did you get it????

Just looks like you replaced the opti with it.... what I had planned is to just cover up the hole where the cam dowel pin comes thru with a welded plate that my engine guy would tig weld on there..... i was just trying to figure out what the purpose is for that plate. it looks good on there.... and what size TB did you say that is????

 

i bought mine from pace performance

its called dist plug 12367600

 

thanks man. is the back of it flat or does it have something that engages the seal in the center hole of the timing cover so that oil doesn't leak out????

 

I got it from scoggin dickey. It inserts into your timing cover and seals to the gasket just like the opti spard does. It just bolts into place. Here is a link to it at summit. Its a gm part. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

 

 

I'm new with this whole setup and i was wondering what were some companies or websites i could get on to look up prices on all the stuff needed to complete this. I plan on running this this summer on my 383. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Yhanks.