whats your take on it
If leave you heads on, you can still port match the heads to the intake. I think this is a good thing because the head runner is much smaller than the intake and intake gasket. First cut out a piece of cardboard to cover the valley pan and tape that down. Make sure the valve covers are on. Tape over all remaining holes and runners that are not the one that is being worked on. Take a marker (I like red) and color the area around the port. Then put the intake gasket on and scribe the area of the port that needs to be removed with a scribe or sharp nail. Then tape over the other runners. Fill the runner being worked on tightly with rags to a level where the grinder will not grab a rag. Grind the scribed area away and smoothly radius it into the port about an inch or inch and a half. Periodically during grinding get out the biggest shop vac you can get your hands on and clean the metal debris, remember cleanliness is next to godliness. Once you are done with a port get the vac and use it while slowly pulling out the rags. Also make sure you get all of the rags so nothing goes through the engine. Then move on to the next runner. I also did this to the intake while it was off but not very much material needed to removed.
If you do not want to go this route sorry for wasting your time, but it made my car feel a little faster on the top end. I then did the hotcam and gained almost 10 mph in the 1/4 mile. I was trapping 96 and now I am trapping upper 105. The cam and springs were also installed in the car. I am all about the engine bay machine shop.
http://64.65.63.61/forums/showthread...et+bauer+heads
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