what lifters
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 631
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From: Metairie, LA
what lifters I'll be upgrading to a bigger cam. RPM range of about 3000-6200(give or take). Will probably be using the Comp 918s. I already have Comp R lifters. I've had them in for a while and spun to 5900+ on the dyno, do I think they're alright. No valvetrain noise or anything. Would this situation justify spending $450-$500 on Morel lifters?
P.S. The cam I'm going with will most likely produce a similar dyno graph as the LE2 cam. Flatter torque curve..power just past 6000-6200. Just to give a better picture. Probably peak tq around 4500 or so. Peak power of 400-415(??) Thanks!
P.S. The cam I'm going with will most likely produce a similar dyno graph as the LE2 cam. Flatter torque curve..power just past 6000-6200. Just to give a better picture. Probably peak tq around 4500 or so. Peak power of 400-415(??) Thanks!
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I am not reving quite that high but am using STOCK original lifters. If you got a good batch of Comp Rs I would keep using them.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 92
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From: Chattanooga, TN.
GMPP 88958689 $220 a set
GM HD Lifters used in the Cadillac Racing Program -- these are designed similar to Morels with the lowered oiling hole, and are extremely durable.
These lifters have a ceramic internals rather than the steel parts to lighten them up.They should be more than enough for the limits of the stock ECU in terms of RPM.
GM HD Lifters used in the Cadillac Racing Program -- these are designed similar to Morels with the lowered oiling hole, and are extremely durable.
These lifters have a ceramic internals rather than the steel parts to lighten them up.They should be more than enough for the limits of the stock ECU in terms of RPM.
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I've heard people say hat the CompRs are trouble prone. Of course, I didn't hear this until I put a set in my car a couple of years ago. Could you elaborate on what the "problems" might be? Thanks!
That other alternative is quite interesting.
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Just make sure you read about the Comp R's. I don't know if someone else set them up before, but you have to set them up correctly or you will break them like most others have.
Those or some other Comp/Crane stock style lifters will do you just fine. You don't need Morels or the other $200+ lifters.
Those or some other Comp/Crane stock style lifters will do you just fine. You don't need Morels or the other $200+ lifters.
Most of the trouble people have had with the Comp R's have been that they put way too much preload on them. They're made for .004" of preload which is much less than stock style lifters.
Originally Posted by seawolf06
Most of the trouble people have had with the Comp R's have been that they put way too much preload on them. They're made for .004" of preload which is much less than stock style lifters.
The instructions with the CompRs say to give them 1/8 turn of preload, unlike the 1/2 to 1 turn the OE parts use.
Remember, 1/8 turn on stock rockers < 1/8 turn on 7/16" rockers.
For finding zero lash, only use the "spin the pushrod" method to get them close. I think doing it with the engine running is more accurate and pretty idiot proof.
For finding zero lash, only use the "spin the pushrod" method to get them close. I think doing it with the engine running is more accurate and pretty idiot proof.
In every case I have seen the "spin the pushrod" method used it has resulted in WAY too tight, in some cases engines barely running. I prefer to spin the polylock down by hand when it bottomes back it off a little and try to move the pushrod vertically in line with the lifter/rocker.
Good point on the studs used affecting how much extra turn is appropriate. Think that is overlooked more often than it is considered.
Good point on the studs used affecting how much extra turn is appropriate. Think that is overlooked more often than it is considered.
Originally Posted by seawolf06
Remember, 1/8 turn on stock rockers < 1/8 turn on 7/16" rockers.
For finding zero lash, only use the "spin the pushrod" method to get them close. I think doing it with the engine running is more accurate and pretty idiot proof.
For finding zero lash, only use the "spin the pushrod" method to get them close. I think doing it with the engine running is more accurate and pretty idiot proof.
Roger that!!
I've always tried to set them while the engine was running. It was a little tough, though, on my '65 Corvair Corsa. The damned mufflers were in the way!
