bmccrary

I wouldnt say it would not be motor mounts. The shaking comes from the motor picking up and droping RPM's. I was told that an automatic LT1 should idle higher than 500 RPM's, should I try to turn it up to around 800 or 900 rpm's?

-bryan

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

What are you looking at to see your rpms? The stock guage cluster? Cause you can't tell what it really is on those. Looks like 500rpm but its really like 650rpm.

How old is the tranny mount. Should replace that with rubber one.

bmccrary

Yes. I am going by the tach on the cluster. I know they are usually a bit off, but I didn't know how much mine was. I figured it varied from car to car. I am beggining to wonder if it just something that I will have to get tuned out of it. I am really wanting to put together some money to Alvin from PCM's for less to do it. I just need a little extra cash first.

-bryan

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

I would replace the tranny mount regardless. Good for maintenance. $5 and 10 minutes to install.

TurboZ28

Despite not throwing a code, I'd check the IAC under your throttle body. Mine was coated in gunk, and the hole leading to it almost completely blocked off and didn't throw a code.

bmccrary

Ok. I was looking through my roommates Chilton Manual the other day and saw where they were replacing the IAC. It said something about checking it with a volt meter to see if it was bad. I might do some more reading on that tonight...

You said yours was just dirty. So what did you clean it with. I have some electronics spray cleaner. Basicly just compressed alchohol that evaperates quickly. Would it be ok to you use that?

-bryan

bmccrary

Ok... recent news. I pulled the old PCV out, and wow that thing was discusting. I put in the new, but no cure. I am sure it helped and I am glad I replaced it, since I never have before....


However, I called about the IAC sensor to see how much it was. The cheapest I could find it was for 54.95 at Advance Autoparts. So I went back to the Chiltons Manual and it said that I should test the resistance between the pins on the IAC. It should be around 40-80 ohms between A and B and the same for C and D. I got ahold of my buddies meter and I had a hard time getting the prongs on the meter to make good contact on the pegs due to the angle I was at and the Themostat housing being in the way. At one point I got 75 something for a second and another time I only had like 25, but I know I wasn't getting full contact. So my next step is to pull the throttle body bolts so I can rotate the TB up some to make sure I am getting good contact. At the price of that IAC, I really want to make sure if it is bad or not. I wasn't going to take any lines off the TB, just get it where I could rotate it up some. However my question is; when I pull the TB will I have to replace the gasket? I didn't know if they were bad about tearing and such and if they were thick enough to withstand me taking it off once.

My only reason for doing this is because I can't get to the bolts that mount the IAC and so I can get good connection on the pins with in it.

Also, I picked up a seperator from Home Depot this afternoon and I grabed the wrong size fittings for the vent line. I picked some up for 3/8" hose and that is too small. What size is that hose, the one from the TB to the valve cover?

Thanks for your help guys.

-bryan

bmccrary

ttt.... any help on the hoses guys? I am thinking 5/8, but I am not sure.

-bryan

bmccrary

Ok. So I spent the afternoon on the car today and pulled off the throttle body. I took the IAC out and check the resistance and everything checked out. I cleaned the tip and spring of the IAC and the cavity in which it sits.

The inside of my Intake looks horrible, almost like some one sprayed Rino Lining on the inside. I added the seperator and mounted it cleanly.

Fired the car up, and it seemed to be better for a while. Then it was back, but not as bad as it once was. I think now I am going to let it be for a while, until it gets worse where I can start to play with it again. However, I called the shop that worked on the car last summer. They had replaced the right side o2, which leaves the left side as the one that came on the car from the factory. It might be the o2 starting to go, not sure. I may replace it later.

Anyone else have any ideas.