what distributor to use ?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 58
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dont give me that where i live we have nobody tuning LT1's every shop out here wants to put me into a stand alone injection for 5 grand i'd reather carb it and then tune it my self before having to go back to them everytime i make a change to the car,theres maybe 50 fbody's out here that arent wrecks and not 1 runs 12's that i've seen
You can get a mail order tune that 9 out of 10 times will be dead on for what you're doing. How cant a shop tune your car just because it has an opti on it? I mean it's OBD1, it's not rocket science.
Originally Posted by FIREHAWKONNOS
every shop out here wants to put me into a stand alone injection for 5 grand i'd reather carb it and then tune it my self
2. You have fun with your 12second carbed LT1 that you can tune 'real easy'.
Tony.
You can buy a FAST injection system from FAST for $2800. You could probably pick it up cheaper from a sponsor or ebay. The part # for the wiring harness is 30-1101. The part # for the XFI controller is 30-1000. The Edlebrock Victor E is the most common converted intake for the LT1's. I would use the Mallory 32 series dist. for this conversion. It has a smaller body on it in both height & diameter, while still having a 20% less chance of spark scatter than a normal dist.
or a crab cap MSD Pro Billet..... low profile and will fit under the cowl... and i second the victor E is the most widely used.....
the supervic is also an option.. i wouldn't get rid of the injection though.... carbs are way more finicky than a well tuned FI setup...
the supervic is also an option.. i wouldn't get rid of the injection though.... carbs are way more finicky than a well tuned FI setup...
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$100 ebay laptop, $65 cable to connect to the car, TunerPro is a FREE tuning program for the 94-5 stuff, Tunercat is $90, Freescan is free Datamaster is an awesome datalogger at $90. Talking under $350 to be WELL equipped to tune a 94-5. If yours is a 96-7 then an OBD1 junkyard pcm at $75 or less gets added to the list still only around $400 if you choose to use none of the free software.
Ruining the car with a carb will cost much more. The only bolton intake is the GMPP/Edelbrock dual plane best suited to weekend hotrod cruisers where an LT1 was retrofitted.
The LT1 losses most of it's advantages over a gen 1 when you take the injection off.
Ruining the car with a carb will cost much more. The only bolton intake is the GMPP/Edelbrock dual plane best suited to weekend hotrod cruisers where an LT1 was retrofitted.
The LT1 losses most of it's advantages over a gen 1 when you take the injection off.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 58
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my car is a 96 obd11 will i have to change it over to obd1 for better tuning,i already have a lap top and before i came up with the carb idea i was looking into LT1 edit but didnt like the 250 rpm jumps.We have seen mail order tunes on the dyno and not one has worked {dont bite my head off thats just what we've seen} i would like to own one of the faster fbody's up here thats why i'm looking for help. Tired of getting smoked by mustang's.
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From: That Southern Fried Space City
LOL...I love how as soon as someone hears "carb" they instantly have nothing but negativity thats usually based on limited knowledge.
Different strokes for different folks...I've had/have done both. It's all a matter of choice. To actually answer the question you asked....
Grab yourself an MSD Pro-billet distributor or you can make things real easy and buy a crank trigger "kit" that comes with everything ya need and once the distributor is in you wouldn't have to worry about getting back there to mess with it.
There are definite advantages and disadvantages to both but in the end it's all a matter of choice.
Different strokes for different folks...I've had/have done both. It's all a matter of choice. To actually answer the question you asked....
Grab yourself an MSD Pro-billet distributor or you can make things real easy and buy a crank trigger "kit" that comes with everything ya need and once the distributor is in you wouldn't have to worry about getting back there to mess with it.
There are definite advantages and disadvantages to both but in the end it's all a matter of choice.
ditch the stock pcm and opti and go megasquirt, with a 36-1 wheel and some
ford parts, can even use the reluctor ring 0ff 99+ v6 mustangs with vr sensor from escort, along with the edis8 used on ford modular v8 engines. need harness from a mustang or crown vic. with the 2 coil packs easily found at salvage yards and ebay, common swap among ms users so parts are available.
reluctor ring needs to be pressed to damper or can use 36-1 wheel, which bolts on to damper, easier to use on lt1 march pulley, easier part to use
helping a friend with 355 ci setup with t76 go this route,
stop messing with those locked pcm tunes and opti turd
if u are serious,
friend has spend less than 1000$ on the ignition and efi system( ms)
www.msefi.com
check it
ford parts, can even use the reluctor ring 0ff 99+ v6 mustangs with vr sensor from escort, along with the edis8 used on ford modular v8 engines. need harness from a mustang or crown vic. with the 2 coil packs easily found at salvage yards and ebay, common swap among ms users so parts are available.
reluctor ring needs to be pressed to damper or can use 36-1 wheel, which bolts on to damper, easier to use on lt1 march pulley, easier part to use
helping a friend with 355 ci setup with t76 go this route,
stop messing with those locked pcm tunes and opti turd
if u are serious,
friend has spend less than 1000$ on the ignition and efi system( ms)
www.msefi.com
check it
Originally Posted by The Big Show
LOL...I love how as soon as someone hears "carb" they instantly have nothing but negativity thats usually based on limited knowledge.
An OBD1 swap should only cost $75 and brings the cost of the tuning software way down.
Far as mailorder, mine is mailorder tuned, I played with fuel a little but timing and shift points are untouched. If you got a bad tune I bet you used a bad tuner or missed something when you sent him a mod list. FWIW one of the very popular tuners is not so great and sent me a handful of screwedup tunes with greatly declining service before I saw the light and moved on. He can get some cars right but often is trying to shortcut things and misses stuff as a result.
Far as mailorder, mine is mailorder tuned, I played with fuel a little but timing and shift points are untouched. If you got a bad tune I bet you used a bad tuner or missed something when you sent him a mod list. FWIW one of the very popular tuners is not so great and sent me a handful of screwedup tunes with greatly declining service before I saw the light and moved on. He can get some cars right but often is trying to shortcut things and misses stuff as a result.
Originally Posted by FIREHAWKONNOS
the ones we tried were from pcms for less tried it 3 times i quit and its time to move on so who's next???
What are your mods? Are you loading the tune yourself?
Matt
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
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my motor is about to be rebuilt not sure on the cam either the hot cam kit just do to price or the 847 it will depend on how much i spend on the bottom end it will be a 355 stock heads ported 2.02/1.60 valves ported intake nx wet nitrous system hoping to spray 150 shot and passetter LT single 3'' exhaust 58 mm tb
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 58
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no the tune we had from them was for a different car and i wont try them after what i saw but my build should be quite easy to get a tune for but i think i'm going to buy LT1 edit being that i have access to a wheel dyno for free and can just sit there a play with it till i get it dont forget either you guys my car is a obd11
