but it helps hell in my application (355 w/ cam-heads - all bolt ons) i could get 6 hp and 4-5 tq from going 48 to 52 i wouldnt go 58 thats over kill unless ur doing like 600-700 i believe i forget what the numbers are

 

wow, I cant get enough of this guy. I wonder what it's like to know EVERYTHING

 

if you want a 150 shot then its not N/A anymore

 

it is possible, but lofty..remember to build a high rwhp number, you need a drivetrain setup just as well. go for a flywheel #, or a track time, but remember some high 9-sec lt1's are putting about 450-470rwhp down n/a. its possible, but would be a ridiculous setup.
with the 7.9x ls1 car n/a, I'm at least shooting for 8.9x n/a next year..we will all have our fun.

 

Go with the 383 and some good full race ported heads cam and 150 shot and you will get damn close.... Im making 456 rwhp on motor with my 383.....

 

don't think ur gonna do it with hydro roller stuff

 

450-470 with a well set up solid roller is no issue with some cubes IMO. Then add some spray 200-250 and it will be more than you'll need unless you are going to compete at a high level.

 

With this budget in mind, I have no idea why you wouldn't go forced induction. With FI you'll also end up with a car that's a lot more street friendly than some raspy thing that needs to idle at 1200rpm.

But, to each their own, eh?

Jim

 

yea..for the budget and streetability, FI is the way to go. for pride, n/a is the way to go haha..just kidding guys.

 

STS makes a rear mounted turbo system with 12lbs. of boost. It says that they put down 600 RWHP. Here is the link to their site: http://www.ststurbo.com/lt1_12_psi_dyno

 

It's just a rough number but anyone that knows anything about this hobby also knows you'll spend this kind of money building an engine/car to hold up to the power of a good SC or Turbo setup. Which incidentally is more expensive than someone adding a big nitrous system to an engine built to handle anything you throw at it, but you still have to build a strong bottom end, top-end, etc. Some like the n/a approach, some like Forced Induction, but FI does NOT automatically make a car more "street friendly" by no means, tuning is a challenge with FI, but worth it. As for raspy and idling @1200rpm, man I'm not sure what you're used to where you're from but that's just wrong in every sense

like you said to each their own

 

^youll need to go forged to handle that much boost, so it might be out of his price range

 

Just throwing it out there.

 

Are you looking for a daily driver or a strip-only car?
And just how important is reaching 500rwhp VS what you are willing to tolerate as far as drivability.

Sure does make good bragging rights though

 

Make NO mistake, a 500 rwhp of ANY form will be a money sucking, parts breaking animal just to keep it up AFTER you get it built and the bugs worked out of it. Unless you baby it around to cruise nights twice a month.



David

 

Come to california and go to CSM race engines... steal my engine off the engine stand that's in the back.. it'll make all of 500 RWHP even with a power sapping TH400 and 9" out back..... better yet go to Texas and steal tony shepherd's motor..... same as this one pretty much and already made 535 with TH400/9" combo.... naturally aspirated....







Seriously though it can be done. probably not with the LT1/4 intake and definitely not with anything shy of 210's IMHO.... I think a 355/383 with converted single plane manifold, rock solid bottom end and AFR 210's or 227's fully hogged out with about 11.50:1 CR and up will do it.....

You can expect to pay about 12-15K easy for a motor similar to these two examples....

HOWEVER, keep in mind that RWHP #'s and getting over 500 is about the combo. you're going to need serious fuel system, stock PCM will probably need to be dumped for something along the lines of BS3, XFI, Gen VII, good cooling system, strong ignition, etc...... So you can expect the full out deal is going to cost easily 20K...... I'm estimating when all is said and done for mine i'll be looking at about 30K..... that includes suspension, fuel system, engine mgmt, tranny that can stand up to 800+ RWHP (my motor is setup for a 400 shot) and all the other odds and ends that I have bought IE vacuum pump, low mount alt kit, painless wiring harness, full cage, etc..... if you just want a 500RWHP NA LT1 it can be done for cheaper but you'll break parts pretty easily unless the ENTIRE setup is capable of handling that power..... can't have a 700hp LT1 with a 22 dollar pep boys coil if ya know what i mean...

 

James, Fastboy & Outlaw all nailed it chief, take some good advice from all of them, they know their ****!