looking for 500 rwhp N/A
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 86
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From: Boise, Id
looking for 500 rwhp N/A i spun a rod bearing a few months ago and now i am looking to build a 500 rwhp n/a lt1 but i am not sure if i should go 355 or 383. any suggestions? also i am not sure on what heads and cam i should go for. I am thinking about afr 210 cc heads but i don't know what cam would get me the rest of the way. I also want 11:1 compression and then use a 150 shot. what would the best set up be?
Yiy can actually do it with either a 355 or 383. You choking point is going to be your head selection. Your also going o have a hard time doing on 11:1 static compression too. Im thinking the easiest way to hit that mark would be to go SR. Valvetrain technology has changed with in the last 10-15 years and people are actually driving them on the street on a daily basis and making 450+hp. I think a 355SR with some Pro action converted heads, 12:1 static compression with about 9.0DCR,custom grind cam anda damn good tune would probably get you there. 
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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Originally Posted by LT1SS
i spun a rod bearing a few months ago and now i am looking to build a 500 rwhp n/a lt1 but i am not sure if i should go 355 or 383. any suggestions? also i am not sure on what heads and cam i should go for. I am thinking about afr 210 cc heads but i don't know what cam would get me the rest of the way. I also want 11:1 compression and then use a 150 shot. what would the best set up be?
Originally Posted by LT1SS
i spun a rod bearing a few months ago and now i am looking to build a 500 rwhp n/a lt1 but i am not sure if i should go 355 or 383. any suggestions? also i am not sure on what heads and cam i should go for. I am thinking about afr 210 cc heads but i don't know what cam would get me the rest of the way. I also want 11:1 compression and then use a 150 shot. what would the best set up be?
AlexSS I think his handle is has close with like 480-490 from a 355 solid roller with AI 200cc heads M6 which sees street time, Rick Abare has a little more than this with AI 190 and later 200CC heads on a 383 through an automatic but his is a race car. Neither runs as low as 11.0:1 compression. If you build a motor capable of making this kind of NA power stopping at a 150 shot is almost laughable.
Mike Harris has an Impala that put down 480rwhp through the automatic self ported heads on a self built stroker with a solid roller, again basically a race car, went 10.9 and recently announced he is switching to the AI 200s as part of his efforts to make an Impala go 10.5 NA.
500 RWHP out of an LT1 is some work and a ton of $$. I am looking into converting to a built 400ci+ LSX with a big Cam and Good Heads, that will come closer, but still might not hit that.
383-396 with some ported trickflows, a sheetmetal or converted single plane, and a solid roller should get you there with the rest of the supporting mods. You have to put a combo that works together in though, not just throwing random parts in it. and be prepared to spend $$, alot of $$.
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
383-396 with some ported trickflows, a sheetmetal or converted single plane, and a solid roller should get you there with the rest of the supporting mods. You have to put a combo that works together in though, not just throwing random parts in it. and be prepared to spend $$, alot of $$.
The three cars I mentioned that were at least in that ballpark all used ported stock intakes.
The intake is another one of those LT1 parts people love to hate despite the fact it works.
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
The three cars I mentioned that were at least in that ballpark all used ported stock intakes.
The intake is another one of those LT1 parts people love to hate despite the fact it works.
The intake is another one of those LT1 parts people love to hate despite the fact it works.
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Just because they have it on their car doesn't mean it won't be any faster with a better intake, kind of like people saying the stock 48mm throttle body isn't a restriction because it comes on the 502 crate motor.
Originally Posted by GIZMO
I know of a Firebird that runs 9.50's with the stock throttle body (N/A).
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Ok and your point is? Or are you one of those people who think that just because someone ran xxx with a certain part that that means that that part isn't a restriction.
Like everyone else has said, it will HAVE to be Solid Roller with heads that flow like an alki with a small bladder. It can be done, but it will take some serious cashola, and the right setup.
Shoot for 400 N/A and then spray the **** out of it.
Shoot for 400 N/A and then spray the **** out of it.
Originally Posted by DeltaT
A blower/intercooler setup would get you there with plenty of tuning leeway... at about 7+ pounds...
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2006
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You are going to need to extensively modify the block to handle this power. First you need to get a side grinder and a TON of cutting wheels, very carefully grind the block down untill you reach the transmission. Now very carefully bolt a LS7 up to the transmission where your old block use to be. Goto a dyno and see 500rwhp. But don't bother driving it on the street as you will grenade the stock 10bolt.
Originally Posted by LiENUS
You are going to need to extensively modify the block to handle this power. First you need to get a side grinder and a TON of cutting wheels, very carefully grind the block down untill you reach the transmission. Now very carefully bolt a LS7 up to the transmission where your old block use to be. Goto a dyno and see 500rwhp. But don't bother driving it on the street as you will grenade the stock 10bolt.
dude that was funny. LT1SS bottom line is yes it can be done, I'm putting down 500 n/a on the dot to the ground and hopefully next Fri she'll be much higher with some changes (NON-nitrous changes
) and even higher when the SuperVic gets here. My goal is very low 10's n/a and even with sucky shifting (re-learning) I ran 11.1 prior to changing my current setup but it was all of a high 10 car. Important to note I bullet proofed front to rear to hold the power. On that note be prepared to spend even more $$$ to build the clutch, tranny, drv-shaft, rearend, good tires, blah blah blah, brutha it adds up trust me...but it can be done.very rough ball-park idea below
engine (reputable mach-shop several sponsors on here, I like LME) $7500
heads (yada yada like above) $2000
bulletproof clutch (like McLeod) $1200
built tranny (recommend T56Rebuilds ...Joe) $1500
custom drf-shaft w/1350 uj's front/rear $400
custom 12blt or 9" - $1700-2500
dyno-tune - $400-500
$18,000 - 20,000 (including odd and ends like tubular Kmem, upper/lower A's, Heavy duty Torque Arm, etc, etc.
Last edited by -PEPE-; Mar 12, 2007 at 01:52 AM.