low RPM hesitation...
03-12-2007, 11:45 PM
#21
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
If the bosch O2s are working for you, then by all means keep running them. I've had bad luck with them, and I know of others who have had issues with them as well.
If it was running fine since the storm, just let it sit. Sometimes LT1s, well, cars in general can be finicky. I had to drive mine through some heavy rain one time and it had a rough idle. Sometimes you get some moisture in places and it just takes time for it to dry out. I've also sometimes just unhooked the battery for the night and hooked it back up in the morning and that has solved issues as well. Sometimes just resetting the pcm and letting the car sit can help.
It sounds like a new motor and you were in good shape last week, I don't think anything could have really gone wrong. Sometimes moisture going through the MAF can cause bad/wrong readings, but the day after you should be alright.
If it was running fine since the storm, just let it sit. Sometimes LT1s, well, cars in general can be finicky. I had to drive mine through some heavy rain one time and it had a rough idle. Sometimes you get some moisture in places and it just takes time for it to dry out. I've also sometimes just unhooked the battery for the night and hooked it back up in the morning and that has solved issues as well. Sometimes just resetting the pcm and letting the car sit can help.
It sounds like a new motor and you were in good shape last week, I don't think anything could have really gone wrong. Sometimes moisture going through the MAF can cause bad/wrong readings, but the day after you should be alright.
03-12-2007, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gun5
ya it has around 1,000 miles on it I got that ram air hood with the bigass filter i know water has to get in there some how... eh?? i drove it for like 30-40 miles today id think that would clear it up but who knows hopefully nothing got in the opti
After the hard rain with my car, I literally let it sit for two days and it was fine when I cranked it back up. Like I was saying earlier -- look into using dielectric grease whenever you do new plugs or wires, it helps keep moisture out along with helping with conductivity. Just food for thought
03-12-2007, 11:51 PM
#24
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
I really think your opti is okay, if it is just a minor hesitation at low RPMs -- I wouldn't be concerned. Like I said sometimes it just needs to clear itself up. If you want you could pull the plugs and wires and make sure there isn't any moisture in the boots or plug valley. If there is, just let it sit and dry out.
After the hard rain with my car, I literally let it sit for two days and it was fine when I cranked it back up. Like I was saying earlier -- look into using dielectric grease whenever you do new plugs or wires, it helps keep moisture out along with helping with conductivity. Just food for thought
After the hard rain with my car, I literally let it sit for two days and it was fine when I cranked it back up. Like I was saying earlier -- look into using dielectric grease whenever you do new plugs or wires, it helps keep moisture out along with helping with conductivity. Just food for thought
A food for thought, every morning when i fire the car off it starts for 3-4 seconds then dies i restart it and drive off.. always does this.. every time only the first start of the day though even when i go do something for like 5-6 hours it has to sit like 12 or so..
I love my Lt1
03-12-2007, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Pretyflywiteguy
mmm wendy's sounds good.. peace out bitches they close in 10 minutes!
Like I said -- if you need a hand let me know, I'm sitting around wasting time here at my parent's house. Also, do you know of any car meets in the central florida area this week? Shoot me a PM if you know of anything going on.
Originally Posted by Gun5
ya there is no grease or anything.. we just did a repair to the wires and i noticed we didnt put any on.. where can i pick some up??.. ill see how she fires up tomorrow morning
A food for thought, every morning when i fire the car off it starts for 3-4 seconds then dies i restart it and drive off.. always does this.. every time only the first start of the day though even when i go do something for like 5-6 hours it has to sit like 12 or so..
I love my Lt1
A food for thought, every morning when i fire the car off it starts for 3-4 seconds then dies i restart it and drive off.. always does this.. every time only the first start of the day though even when i go do something for like 5-6 hours it has to sit like 12 or so..
I love my Lt1
) It just takes a little bit inside the boot where the contact with the plug goes, and then a little bit smeared on the more outter edge of the boot to help keep moisture out.Edit: Your ninja edit was too quick for me -- How new is your starter/alternator/battery? That sort of sounds like an electrical system issue, which ultimately could be tied into the whole situation. It is really hard to tell because there are so many variables with cars in general.
03-13-2007, 12:03 AM
#26
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
Right on
Like I said -- if you need a hand let me know, I'm sitting around wasting time here at my parent's house. Also, do you know of any car meets in the central florida area this week? Shoot me a PM if you know of anything going on.
You can find dielectric grease at any DAP for about $3.00 for a small tube. It is usually sold by Permatex. I've got the big one because I've been going through spark plugs like crazy lately. (Tuning issues, tweaking my nitrous system ) It just takes a little bit inside the boot where the contact with the plug goes, and then a little bit smeared on the more outter edge of the boot to help keep moisture out.
Edit: Your ninja edit was too quick for me -- How new is your starter/alternator/battery? That sort of sounds like an electrical system issue, which ultimately could be tied into the whole situation. It is really hard to tell because there are so many variables with cars in general.
Like I said -- if you need a hand let me know, I'm sitting around wasting time here at my parent's house. Also, do you know of any car meets in the central florida area this week? Shoot me a PM if you know of anything going on.
You can find dielectric grease at any DAP for about $3.00 for a small tube. It is usually sold by Permatex. I've got the big one because I've been going through spark plugs like crazy lately. (Tuning issues, tweaking my nitrous system
) It just takes a little bit inside the boot where the contact with the plug goes, and then a little bit smeared on the more outter edge of the boot to help keep moisture out.Edit: Your ninja edit was too quick for me -- How new is your starter/alternator/battery? That sort of sounds like an electrical system issue, which ultimately could be tied into the whole situation. It is really hard to tell because there are so many variables with cars in general.
-Alt checked by autozone
-Starter checked by autozone
-Wires (power/ground checked by me and mechanic)
another thing that worried me but i'v gone like 300 miles since I picked the car up from the shop it died going over a bump but it started right back up.. i looked at all the connections they where all solid... we had just put the alt, starter checked all the wires and grounds to make sure they where good (took them off car)
Last edited by Gun5; 03-13-2007 at 12:11 AM.
03-13-2007, 12:15 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by Gun5
battery is a POS duralast gold car cranks ok sometimes but sometimes it turns over slow (At night usualy when i do short drives *underdrive pulley*).. its not good for my engine to begin with due to compression im getting a redtop warrentied tomorrow so i will have a new optima in the car tomorrow...
-Alt checked by autozone
-Starter checked by autozone
-Wires (power/ground checked by me and mechanic)
another thing that worried me but i'v gone like 300 miles since I picked the car up from the shop it died going over a bump but it started right back up.. i looked at all the connections they where all solid... we had just put the alt, starter checked all the wires and grounds to make sure they where good (took them off car)
-Alt checked by autozone
-Starter checked by autozone
-Wires (power/ground checked by me and mechanic)
another thing that worried me but i'v gone like 300 miles since I picked the car up from the shop it died going over a bump but it started right back up.. i looked at all the connections they where all solid... we had just put the alt, starter checked all the wires and grounds to make sure they where good (took them off car)
Double check the wire going from the top of the optispark to the ignition coil and make sure it has a good connection on both ends. I know when I was having issues with my car one time where it would die on me, the wire was actually coming off of the ignition coil slightly.
03-13-2007, 12:21 AM
#28
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
Definitely get the red top in there and see how it behaves. How is the alternator reading on the volt-meter in the dash? I've had alternators that were reading bad at one autozone they said it was good, and the other they said it was bad, so I don't completely trust them sometimes. Did they test the alternator off of the car on their machine, or use a hand-held device with the car running?
Double check the wire going from the top of the optispark to the ignition coil and make sure it has a good connection on both ends. I know when I was having issues with my car one time where it would die on me, the wire was actually coming off of the ignition coil slightly.
Double check the wire going from the top of the optispark to the ignition coil and make sure it has a good connection on both ends. I know when I was having issues with my car one time where it would die on me, the wire was actually coming off of the ignition coil slightly.
-New Battery
-Ignition Coil Wire
-OptiSpark Wire Harness
03-13-2007, 10:22 PM
#29
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
Not trying to be a dick -- but if you're looking for help, punctuation and organizing your thoughts better will help people be able to read what you post, and be able to help you out. Just keep that in mind for future posting
MSD Distributor or MSD Cap and Rotor? A lot of people have done a cap and rotor, and have ended up having to back in there and change the whole thing out.
How is it stumbling? Up top? Down low? Throughout the RPM range? Can you go WOT?
For everyone else with issues:
How new is the ignition coil? How new is the wire going from the opti to the ignition coil? Did you use dielectric grease in your spark plug boots when you did your plug wires? Did you make sure your plug wires are routed correctly and are not burnt or cut on pulleys (along the passenger side)?
There are quite a few possibilities that I think a lot of you should look into. Getting a new opti-spark isn't always the solution. Some people have a factory opti last them 140,000 miles. Other guys have had one last 80,000, and the new one fails in 1,000 miles. I hate to say it, but it is hit or miss -- you just have to be thorough with your trouble shooting.
One thing that a lot of you need to look into if you are having a hesitation/stumbling/missfire/running rough/breaking up issue. Look along the passenger side of the intake manifold -- there is a wiring harness that looks like this:
It is the harness that goes from the PCM to the optispark. A lot of the time the harness as it goes down along the front of the block and plugs into the opti, it will be corroded and cracked from heat, moisture, and just being old. Take a look at that, because it very might well be your culprit. A lot of people don't look into it, but realize after they are replacing their opti that it needs to be replaced. Do it once, do it right.
MSD Distributor or MSD Cap and Rotor? A lot of people have done a cap and rotor, and have ended up having to back in there and change the whole thing out.
How is it stumbling? Up top? Down low? Throughout the RPM range? Can you go WOT?
For everyone else with issues:
How new is the ignition coil? How new is the wire going from the opti to the ignition coil? Did you use dielectric grease in your spark plug boots when you did your plug wires? Did you make sure your plug wires are routed correctly and are not burnt or cut on pulleys (along the passenger side)?
There are quite a few possibilities that I think a lot of you should look into. Getting a new opti-spark isn't always the solution. Some people have a factory opti last them 140,000 miles. Other guys have had one last 80,000, and the new one fails in 1,000 miles. I hate to say it, but it is hit or miss -- you just have to be thorough with your trouble shooting.
One thing that a lot of you need to look into if you are having a hesitation/stumbling/missfire/running rough/breaking up issue. Look along the passenger side of the intake manifold -- there is a wiring harness that looks like this:
It is the harness that goes from the PCM to the optispark. A lot of the time the harness as it goes down along the front of the block and plugs into the opti, it will be corroded and cracked from heat, moisture, and just being old. Take a look at that, because it very might well be your culprit. A lot of people don't look into it, but realize after they are replacing their opti that it needs to be replaced. Do it once, do it right.
sorry for the sloppy post.
i am having slight hesitation between idle and 1500. WOT is perfect. when i ease on the gas slowly its perfect also. Seems like my engine has issuess with sudden change at low end or rolling slow or from stop.
other people who ride with me dont even notice it.
sometimes it sounds like it backfires thru the intake side when it hesitates (loud POP from up front) not even close to every time though.
I have brand new GM 02's, brand new tr something pulgs(55) (45) dont remember.
I put in a deleq 4 coil setup with a brand new billet opti unit from MSD (whole unit).
the opti solved all my probs but this one the slight hesitation at low end only and occasion backfire when doing so.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
03-13-2007, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by i420tom
sorry for the sloppy post.
i am having slight hesitation between idle and 1500. WOT is perfect. when i ease on the gas slowly its perfect also. Seems like my engine has issuess with sudden change at low end or rolling slow or from stop.
other people who ride with me dont even notice it.
sometimes it sounds like it backfires thru the intake side when it hesitates (loud POP from up front) not even close to every time though.
I have brand new GM 02's, brand new tr something pulgs(55) (45) dont remember.
I put in a deleq 4 coil setup with a brand new billet opti unit from MSD (whole unit).
the opti solved all my probs but this one the slight hesitation at low end only and occasion backfire when doing so.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
i am having slight hesitation between idle and 1500. WOT is perfect. when i ease on the gas slowly its perfect also. Seems like my engine has issuess with sudden change at low end or rolling slow or from stop.
other people who ride with me dont even notice it.
sometimes it sounds like it backfires thru the intake side when it hesitates (loud POP from up front) not even close to every time though.
I have brand new GM 02's, brand new tr something pulgs(55) (45) dont remember.
I put in a deleq 4 coil setup with a brand new billet opti unit from MSD (whole unit).
the opti solved all my probs but this one the slight hesitation at low end only and occasion backfire when doing so.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Last edited by Burning Rubber; 03-13-2007 at 10:44 PM.
03-13-2007, 10:52 PM
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Before yall bank all that. Yall migh want to check an EGR/Exgauhst leak. I had the same prob but as soon as i replaced it all with LTs It has not done it sence.
03-13-2007, 11:06 PM
#32
Originally Posted by BLACKSHARK
Before yall bank all that. Yall migh want to check an EGR/Exgauhst leak. I had the same prob but as soon as i replaced it all with LTs It has not done it sence.
I have long tubes and now that i think of it i did leave the egr in but it is dleted in my pcm. I will get the block off plates and try that.
today i did a top engine cleaner and oil and gas treatmeant.
also pulled off the performance pully today and voltage is much better.
car still does it though not as bad, but it was cool today and usually its just a little mroe noticable when its hot.
I still have yet to replace that stupid breather on pass vavle cover. i hope that and maybe the fuel treatment does it.
what do you guys put in the passenger side valve cover when not using the stock plastic piece?
Anyone want my pulley pm me
03-13-2007, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by i420tom
sorry for the sloppy post.
i am having slight hesitation between idle and 1500. WOT is perfect. when i ease on the gas slowly its perfect also. Seems like my engine has issuess with sudden change at low end or rolling slow or from stop.
other people who ride with me dont even notice it.
sometimes it sounds like it backfires thru the intake side when it hesitates (loud POP from up front) not even close to every time though.
I have brand new GM 02's, brand new tr something pulgs(55) (45) dont remember.
I put in a deleq 4 coil setup with a brand new billet opti unit from MSD (whole unit).
the opti solved all my probs but this one the slight hesitation at low end only and occasion backfire when doing so.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
i am having slight hesitation between idle and 1500. WOT is perfect. when i ease on the gas slowly its perfect also. Seems like my engine has issuess with sudden change at low end or rolling slow or from stop.
other people who ride with me dont even notice it.
sometimes it sounds like it backfires thru the intake side when it hesitates (loud POP from up front) not even close to every time though.
I have brand new GM 02's, brand new tr something pulgs(55) (45) dont remember.
I put in a deleq 4 coil setup with a brand new billet opti unit from MSD (whole unit).
the opti solved all my probs but this one the slight hesitation at low end only and occasion backfire when doing so.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
If yours is extremely subtle -- and not consistant, I'd look into the stuff I mentioned earlier. It could possibly be a vacuum line as well. Check all of your vacuum lines to make sure they aren't cracked.
If you haven't ever pulled the throttle body off, it probably wouldn't hurt to take it off (get a new gasket between the TB and Intake manifold) and clean it all out. If it has never been cleaned before (trust me, you'll know) then get some rags, some degreaser, and some carb/choke cleaner and just go at it. Just be thorough and get as much of the carbon deposits off of it. Also pull the IAC out and spray and wipe down the pintle (the spring part on the IAC) because that could possibly be causing your partial off-idle hesitation.
Diagnosing a hesitation/miss/stumble is extremely difficult. There are quite a few variables. Just go step by step through as much as you can and let us know if you find anything else.
Originally Posted by Burning Rubber
my car is doing exactly the same thing, only i have to feather the throttle to make the car move, and the hesitation is both under load and revving, and sometimes worse than others. but once its past 1500 it runs really well. Also the passenger side bank is loading up pretty bad. and the driver side is not. i replaced the driver side O2 with a BOSCH and left the other one alone. I am thinking about getting two new AC Delco O2s.
Is the issue also when the car is warming up (open loop) and when you are driving regular (closed loop)?
If that's the case, I'd take a look at the plugs and wires for sure. I'm going to lean towards a burnt or cracked plug wire being the culprit.
Also run the car at night with the hood popped (and no lights on) and make sure none of the plug wires are arching at all. If any of the wires are burnt or cracked, or otherwise old you'll definitely see the lightshow.
Last edited by WhyHelloOfficer; 03-13-2007 at 11:16 PM.
03-13-2007, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by i420tom
whatcha think about me officer?
Something else I just thought about -- it could also be in the tune. I had a PCMforless tune (which was later tweaked by Jeremy Formato) and he said that he had to increase some of the IAC counts just to smooth things out at idle and right off idle.
So no matter what it could just be in the tune as well.
03-13-2007, 11:26 PM
#36
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
Ninja edit
Something else I just thought about -- it could also be in the tune. I had a PCMforless tune (which was later tweaked by Jeremy Formato) and he said that he had to increase some of the IAC counts just to smooth things out at idle and right off idle.
So no matter what it could just be in the tune as well.
Something else I just thought about -- it could also be in the tune. I had a PCMforless tune (which was later tweaked by Jeremy Formato) and he said that he had to increase some of the IAC counts just to smooth things out at idle and right off idle.
So no matter what it could just be in the tune as well.
Thanks Ill see if theyll send me a new one(i paid extra for unlimited adjustments)
03-13-2007, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by i420tom
damn i hope thats it!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Ill see if theyll send me a new one(i paid extra for unlimited adjustments)
Thanks Ill see if theyll send me a new one(i paid extra for unlimited adjustments)
Explain to him what is going on, and what you have checked, and you guys can go from there.
03-13-2007, 11:42 PM
#38
Originally Posted by WhyHelloOfficer
This doesn't mean you are off the hook, it just means it is a possibility. Check all of the things I said in the previous post as well. Look into the tune as a last resort after you check everything out. If you have never pulled off the TB, I could be pretty sure that cleaning everything (TB, TB Blades, IAC, etc.) will help you out. If it still does it, then I'd contact Bryan Herter and I'm sure he'll work with you.
Explain to him what is going on, and what you have checked, and you guys can go from there.
Explain to him what is going on, and what you have checked, and you guys can go from there.
just did seafoam an hour ago and sprayed the TB should i still take it off?
seafoam helped a little but it is cool out and that usually smoothed it out a tad bit.
dunno how to check injectors beside replacing them. the seafoam is still in the tank so that has hardly started cleaning.
so basically i will check the following b4 contacting pcm4less:
opti harness on pass side
will fix stuip breather on pass vc(shouldnt have one should be tube to TB)
put in egr block off plates
map sensor maybe
mass air is clean
everything else i can think of is new as in my sig. Wires and plugs have been checked over and over again.
03-14-2007, 12:16 AM
#39
oops i totally missed that post above talking about cleaning the iac motor.
i will try that too.
The off idle hesitation is subtle but consistant, the backfire that happens during this is just a once in a while thing. Mostly after when i am breaking hard, almost stop, and then 50% the trottle, thats when its is pop then go.
If it wasnt for this backfire, i would think that im crazy, i would think theres nothing wrong just that im not used to auto and not being stick. But the occasional backfire proves to me that something is wrong.
But it acting sluggish and hesitation sublty has always been there at idle off idle.
Anything else specific you think of let me know
Thnaks a TONNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
i will try that too.
The off idle hesitation is subtle but consistant, the backfire that happens during this is just a once in a while thing. Mostly after when i am breaking hard, almost stop, and then 50% the trottle, thats when its is pop then go.
If it wasnt for this backfire, i would think that im crazy, i would think theres nothing wrong just that im not used to auto and not being stick. But the occasional backfire proves to me that something is wrong.
But it acting sluggish and hesitation sublty has always been there at idle off idle.
Anything else specific you think of let me know
Thnaks a TONNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
03-15-2007, 03:02 PM
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Okay so I was wondering how everyone else faired with their low rpm hesitation. Because I have done everything other than change the Optispark and the O2s and it has gotten better but it is still there. The plugs were badly fuel fouled. They were jet black! So i need a bit of advice. what should i do next?? Opti or O2s?? or something else?? I have checked all the plugs/wires/wire harness connections.