Z 2 8

Everyone has always told me that 1.6RR's for my car would cost roughly $150. Well, now I'm getting some and I called up automotive engineering and they told me they were $325!! He told me they were hydraulic rocker arms and they just sit pop right in...Aren't all LT1 RR's hydraulic?? My question: Is there some kind of difference between those RR's and something else I could buy? Should i spend 325 for those RR's? He read the box to me and it said there good for Camaro's 88-99. Does that make sense?

If anyone has any idea which RR's I should get, please let me know. I would like to get these, because they have them in stock and it's the last thing I need to get my car back. What do you guys think?

My car is a 94 Z28 with LT headers, Matching Y-pipe, LT4 KM and a stall.

3pnt4maro

iTrader: (2)

im running crane gold race series rocker..paid 319 i believe for them

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

there is no hydraulic part to a roller rocker, they are all mechanical action only. but that price sounds like its for a full roller design, the rockers that are below 200 dollars are only roller tip

Z 2 8

Would that be better?

Also, will it come with springs? It would be a good idea to change those as well, right? If they don't come with springs, what kind should I get?

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

the full roller will free up more horsepower, because the roller tip still develop alot of frictional loss at the ball fulcrum contact, the full roller instead has a roller fulcrum they are more expensive though.

I have heard that the 1.6 put the stock spring close to the bind point. Also depending on how many miles your car has its a good idea to change the springs because they can get tired, and they tend to float around the redline.

Right now I am in the process of changing to a 1.65 ratio Roller Rocker, and I am changing the springs, rocker studs, valve seals, and pushrods, now I am changing the pushrods because I went to non self aligning rockers so I am using guideplates and hardened pushrods

Z 2 8

Well, my timing chain broke and it bent valves...So, I pretty much have to change all of that anyway. I just want to know if there is a certain kind of springs I need to buy. I don't want to get the wrong thing, you know?

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

it really depends on how much you want to spend, I am actually doing research on this right now, because I am changing up to 1.65 rockers on my TA, I am probably gonna go with the Comp Cams Beehives springs, part number 26-918-16, they are a little more pricey but they are good stuff

just do some research, call a couple places and find what is the best for your application

sam95transam

i put in 1.6 pro-mag roller rockers when i did my cam swap. I did self aligning because I just wanted something a little above what I had. If i were serious about racing or even some at the track I would do the non self aligning rockers of that same kind and go with some guideplates. I also used the 918 valve springs from comp also. I have had alot of success with this combo. The only problem is that with the comp rocker arms, you have to make some adjustments to the webbing in the valvecover. nothing some pliers wont fix. I paid 325 for the rockers and 180 for the springs. If you go to a different valve spring such as these at least, youll have to buy the corresponding hardware like the locks, retainers and the seats. Get the rockers in the 7/16 version and of course youll have to get new studs, but they are stronger. I bought all of mine from thunderracing.com. They have great customer service too. you should take a look into it.