So if you wanted a 500whp lt1.....
05-15-2007, 08:24 PM
#21
One of the biggest mistakes I've seen around here are folks looking for a dyno number...Your goals of mid/low 11s make the task much more manageable...Take your time and look around here and see what people are running and pick their brains...Making power is only a part or the whole equation...What you want to achieve is more easily attained with a well thought out combination of parts...This is where you can work smart and not hard...Good luck with everything...
--Alan
--Alan
05-15-2007, 08:29 PM
#22
Honestly i wouldnt ever want a 500rwhp NA LT1. But I wont waste a lot of money only to drive it a few seconds at a time so a drag car is out for me.
If you just want 500rwhp then go boosted from the start and dont waste your money. Im going with a simple PTK setup with a 63-66mm turbo on a stock bottom end with a cc306 cam and I feel pretty confident it will make 500rwhp or so.
If you just want 500rwhp then go boosted from the start and dont waste your money. Im going with a simple PTK setup with a 63-66mm turbo on a stock bottom end with a cc306 cam and I feel pretty confident it will make 500rwhp or so.
05-15-2007, 08:34 PM
#23
Originally Posted by 1bdbrd
Honestly i wouldnt ever want a 500rwhp NA LT1. But I wont waste a lot of money only to drive it a few seconds at a time so a drag car is out for me.
If you just want 500rwhp then go boosted from the start and dont waste your money. Im going with a simple PTK setup with a 63-66mm turbo on a stock bottom end with a cc306 cam and I feel pretty confident it will make 500rwhp or so.
If you just want 500rwhp then go boosted from the start and dont waste your money. Im going with a simple PTK setup with a 63-66mm turbo on a stock bottom end with a cc306 cam and I feel pretty confident it will make 500rwhp or so.
that sounds good... i really want a turbo kit.
05-15-2007, 08:36 PM
#24
On The Tree
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
List please, only ONE I know of is Rick Abare with Lt1 castings.
$15-20K is a bit steep. You would probably cry if I told you how much less than that I had in my engine.
Jason short: Ditto
96capricemgr: Ditto
05-15-2007, 08:42 PM
#26
Look at the vid in SS Alexs sig his car rocks. If you do what he did then you should be more then happy with it when its done I know I sure as hell would be.
Originally Posted by SS Aleks
I have the 355. It rocks.
$15-20K is a bit steep. You would probably cry if I told you how much less than that I had in my engine.
Jason short: Ditto
96capricemgr: Ditto
$15-20K is a bit steep. You would probably cry if I told you how much less than that I had in my engine.
Jason short: Ditto
96capricemgr: Ditto
05-15-2007, 10:23 PM
#27
I think you should do a LOT more research before you buy anything. If you want a blower/turbo then you DO NOT want 500whp N/A. You can't have both. 500whp NA would take a high compression solid roller setup that would not be compatible with any kind of boosted application.
05-15-2007, 10:49 PM
#28
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: jacksonville,FL
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Enforcerws6
Look at the vid in SS Alexs sig his car rocks. If you do what he did then you should be more then happy with it when its done I know I sure as hell would be.
05-16-2007, 06:33 AM
#30
Going mid elevens is not hard. I am running mid 11.3s with a stock LT1 with an ATI P1SC, the only changes in the engine are valve springs and rocker arms. The intake manifold hasn't even been off yet. This car is still at full weight with all accessories. With a good bottom end and heads/cam, this would go an easy 10.50 with a mild set up.
I agree with 1BDBRD, if you want 500RWHP and be able to street drive it, you will want to go with a power adder. With a 500RWHP N/A car, you will be running race gas and adjusting your valve lash every other week.
That's just my .02, good luck.
I agree with 1BDBRD, if you want 500RWHP and be able to street drive it, you will want to go with a power adder. With a 500RWHP N/A car, you will be running race gas and adjusting your valve lash every other week.
That's just my .02, good luck.
__________________
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
05-16-2007, 08:14 AM
#32
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
That is not a realistic goal. Yes a few guys have done it but they are solid roller basically race setups not street cars even if they are occassionally street driven. 383s revving right to the 7-7200 the pcm will allow.
A wild NA setup like this would have to be COMPLETELY reworked to accept boost if you decided to add a blower, nitrous would require less changes as long as the shot was reasonable, say 200 or less.
Better bet would be to set an ET goal and work for that rather than a HP number, they are not the same thing.
A wild NA setup like this would have to be COMPLETELY reworked to accept boost if you decided to add a blower, nitrous would require less changes as long as the shot was reasonable, say 200 or less.
Better bet would be to set an ET goal and work for that rather than a HP number, they are not the same thing.
Completely agree with your last statement "ET goals prior rwhp #'s"
Last edited by -PEPE-; 05-16-2007 at 10:44 AM.
05-16-2007, 09:49 AM
#34
TECH Fanatic
It's possible to build a 600 fwhp 396 LT1 that idles smoothly about 900 rpm, has a long flat torque curve and a fairly mild HR valvetrain. That 600 fw should translate to at least 500 rwhp. I've seen the engine and the dyno results. It's for a street crusin' F-bod. The owner isn't a X or Y-gen guy...more like a Boomer.
The formula was lots of money...around the $15K mark others have mentioned. It wasn't a cookie-cutter engine, and had LOTS of bucks in the heads/manifold.
Listen to some of the good advice received above from builders.
The formula was lots of money...around the $15K mark others have mentioned. It wasn't a cookie-cutter engine, and had LOTS of bucks in the heads/manifold.
Listen to some of the good advice received above from builders.
05-16-2007, 10:03 AM
#35
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by -PEPE-
I guess mine would be considered a race car by whatever "rulebook of racecar life 101" or something but I drive mine on the street everywhere without any issues, to and from the track included. People hear the word "solid roller" and figure you can't take to McDonald's drive-thru...you just gotta shut her down so they can hear
Completely agree with your last statement "ET goals prior rwhp #'s"
Completely agree with your last statement "ET goals prior rwhp #'s"
ball park figure how much did you spend to get to 500 RWHP?
05-16-2007, 10:43 AM
#36
Originally Posted by streetwarrior96
ball park figure how much did you spend to get to 500 RWHP?
05-16-2007, 11:42 AM
#37
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Lake in the Hills, IL
Posts: 1,838
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just do a 383 11:5:1 - 12:1 all forged with 4 bolt splayed main caps. get some trickflows ported by LE or similar and you'll have 420-450 depending on bolt ons etc.. Then buy a kit and spray the **** out of it. You'll be mid 11s at least NA and then the sky is the limit with the spray and how you do your suspension
05-16-2007, 11:53 AM
#38
On The Tree
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by silver95
... if you want 500RWHP and be able to street drive it... a 500RWHP N/A car, you will be running race gas and adjusting your valve lash every other week.
Proper tuning is 90% of the driveability fight. I can cruze the side roads @ 1,600 RPM with barely a hic-up. I still have more tuning to do, but every time I go out the fuel milage gets better. Pepe is right, as soon as solid rollers are mentioned, people who don't know any better start drawing conclusions based in everything but facts/ experiance.
05-16-2007, 12:04 PM
#39
Been done this road for a 500RWHP N/A LTX car but sold the converted Supervic before I finished and decided to go FI.
IMO I would do something similiar to FASTFATBOY on here. Get some Bare RHS 235 Runner heads (about $550 a piece) and get them Reversed Cooled ($500) and send them to LE, AI, or Portpros (around $800). should be in the 320 Fow range on the intake and 230 on the exhaust on average. Match those heads to a Single plane ( don't have to convert the bolt pattern ) with a Stock sytle TB using a custom sheet metal elbow from intakeelbows.com or something similiar. That mixed with a high 23X duration cam or low 24X cam should net 500RWHP depending on the tranny or rearend which would have to be taken into account.
For the rest of the motor I would like to see what that would do on a 355 spinning it to max PCM values but a 383 or 396 would fit the bill calming the camshaft and making that larger 235 Runner feel a little better with the more CI.
However you can always keep the pimp heads, get the shorblock built for boost with a lower CR, and run boost through it. Decided to go that route for better streetability and more Fun on the street IMO. 650-700RWHP with a Overdrive 4L80E with a 3.23-3.42 rear gear ratio pulling about 2300RPM at 70 crusing, an still able to wax 95% of the cars on the street
IMO I would do something similiar to FASTFATBOY on here. Get some Bare RHS 235 Runner heads (about $550 a piece) and get them Reversed Cooled ($500) and send them to LE, AI, or Portpros (around $800). should be in the 320 Fow range on the intake and 230 on the exhaust on average. Match those heads to a Single plane ( don't have to convert the bolt pattern
) with a Stock sytle TB using a custom sheet metal elbow from intakeelbows.com or something similiar. That mixed with a high 23X duration cam or low 24X cam should net 500RWHP depending on the tranny or rearend which would have to be taken into account.For the rest of the motor I would like to see what that would do on a 355 spinning it to max PCM values but a 383 or 396 would fit the bill calming the camshaft and making that larger 235 Runner feel a little better with the more CI.
However you can always keep the pimp heads, get the shorblock built for boost with a lower CR, and run boost through it. Decided to go that route for better streetability and more Fun on the street IMO. 650-700RWHP with a Overdrive 4L80E with a 3.23-3.42 rear gear ratio pulling about 2300RPM at 70 crusing, an still able to wax 95% of the cars on the street
05-16-2007, 01:10 PM
#40
Originally Posted by silver95
With a 500RWHP N/A car, you will be running race gas and adjusting your valve lash every other week.
That's just my .02, good luck.