So if you wanted a 500whp lt1.....
05-16-2007, 01:17 PM
#41
Quote:
Originally Posted by silver95
With a 500RWHP N/A car, you will be running race gas and adjusting your valve lash every other week.
That's just my .02, good luck.
Thank You, fakkkkkk! If I got a buck for everytime I've heard "you gotta adjust the valves on an SR constantly"...well...I reckon I wouldn't be uh eatin so much Ramen Noodles... 
As Jason stated it takes good parts, shaft mounts, serious pushrods (3/8"), the right rollerockers, oiling, etc, etc...and good parts aren't cheap so people go the way side with bullsh&% that doesn't hold up and yes you will be adjusting valvelash, blah blah blah.
Originally Posted by silver95
With a 500RWHP N/A car, you will be running race gas and adjusting your valve lash every other week.
That's just my .02, good luck.
Originally Posted by JasonShort
This is exactly the information that people need to be careful about listening to. Do you own or drive a 500rwhp NA LTx car? If you buy the right parts the first time, a solid roller requires almost no more maintainence than a hydraulic roller. Its all in the valvetrain and oiling system.
Thank You, fakkkkkk! If I got a buck for everytime I've heard "you gotta adjust the valves on an SR constantly"...well...I reckon I wouldn't be uh eatin so much Ramen Noodles... As Jason stated it takes good parts, shaft mounts, serious pushrods (3/8"), the right rollerockers, oiling, etc, etc...and good parts aren't cheap so people go the way side with bullsh&% that doesn't hold up and yes you will be adjusting valvelash, blah blah blah.
05-16-2007, 05:18 PM
#43
If a solid roller needs constant adjustment I would be looking for what is wearing. People need to spend more time THINKING about cause and effect. If the lash is constantly going out WHY? What is causing it? The cam is staying in the smae place in the block, the pushrod should stay the same length, the lifter as a SOLID lifter should not be colapsing or anything. If the rockers are backing off then you didn't tighten them enough, same goes for the rocker studs, the valves aren't getting shorter etc.
Would I periodically check lash, YES but if I started finding it in need of adjustment I would be looking for parts on their way out.
I understand SR can be streetable, I am just not yet sure they can survive the level of street use my car sees, like 10K a year. In a month I will be driving it to St. Louis for the Impala club nationals. That will be like 500 miles each way with racing in between which is a bit different than driving a car a few nights a week.
I have no experiance with solid rollers so I can't say they wont last under that use I can only say it would be a concern for me.
Would I periodically check lash, YES but if I started finding it in need of adjustment I would be looking for parts on their way out.
I understand SR can be streetable, I am just not yet sure they can survive the level of street use my car sees, like 10K a year. In a month I will be driving it to St. Louis for the Impala club nationals. That will be like 500 miles each way with racing in between which is a bit different than driving a car a few nights a week.
I have no experiance with solid rollers so I can't say they wont last under that use I can only say it would be a concern for me.
05-16-2007, 06:08 PM
#44
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My LT-1 made over 500 with a hydraulic roller. A big part was the PCM tune and combo. Cam was only around .600 lift but it had around 11.8 to 1 compression. The car cruised great and driveabiltiy was good. 10-15 K is a good estimate. I had about 3000$ in port work in my LT-4s alone. Now that I know what they flow I would never sell them just because of the amount of work in them. I did not daily drive my car but if it had a manual I know I could of with ease.
05-16-2007, 06:28 PM
#45
Originally Posted by JasonShort
I edited your last post for language....please keep it clean 
Second, let me start by giving you two pieces of advise on building a 500rwhp NA LT1. 1. ONLY listen to people who have actually built a motor like this for advise. You will get ALOT of poor advise from those who have never built a motor like this. 2. Pay $100 and buy a good used LT1 block and start building the motor before you take your car apart. Build the motor as you get the money, and enjoy driving your car in the meantime.....that way if it does take 6-12 months, you wont be hating the build up.
If you do things right the first time, you can build one for $10k.
Jason
Second, let me start by giving you two pieces of advise on building a 500rwhp NA LT1. 1. ONLY listen to people who have actually built a motor like this for advise. You will get ALOT of poor advise from those who have never built a motor like this. 2. Pay $100 and buy a good used LT1 block and start building the motor before you take your car apart. Build the motor as you get the money, and enjoy driving your car in the meantime.....that way if it does take 6-12 months, you wont be hating the build up.
If you do things right the first time, you can build one for $10k.
Jason
Great advise!!!
I have a 396 and will most likely end up a solid roller. It is not CHEAP and my car sat for six months. Depending on the cars weight @ 450 you may come close to 10's. It took 468 rwhp to run a 10.8X. Best of luck to you, I hope to do my solid roller this summer (fl means mod in the summer).
05-16-2007, 08:37 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by 97blkz
Great advise!!!
I have a 396 and will most likely end up a solid roller. It is not CHEAP and my car sat for six months. Depending on the cars weight @ 450 you may come close to 10's. It took 468 rwhp to run a 10.8X. Best of luck to you, I hope to do my solid roller this summer (fl means mod in the summer).
I have a 396 and will most likely end up a solid roller. It is not CHEAP and my car sat for six months. Depending on the cars weight @ 450 you may come close to 10's. It took 468 rwhp to run a 10.8X. Best of luck to you, I hope to do my solid roller this summer (fl means mod in the summer).
05-16-2007, 09:22 PM
#47
Originally Posted by T/A KID
Been done this road for a 500RWHP N/A LTX car but sold the converted Supervic before I finished and decided to go FI.
IMO I would do something similiar to FASTFATBOY on here. Get some Bare RHS 235 Runner heads (about $550 a piece) and get them Reversed Cooled ($500) and send them to LE, AI, or Portpros (around $800). should be in the 320 Fow range on the intake and 230 on the exhaust on average. Match those heads to a Single plane ( don't have to convert the bolt pattern ) with a Stock sytle TB using a custom sheet metal elbow from intakeelbows.com or something similiar. That mixed with a high 23X duration cam or low 24X cam should net 500RWHP depending on the tranny or rearend which would have to be taken into account.
For the rest of the motor I would like to see what that would do on a 355 spinning it to max PCM values but a 383 or 396 would fit the bill calming the camshaft and making that larger 235 Runner feel a little better with the more CI.
However you can always keep the pimp heads, get the shorblock built for boost with a lower CR, and run boost through it. Decided to go that route for better streetability and more Fun on the street IMO. 650-700RWHP with a Overdrive 4L80E with a 3.23-3.42 rear gear ratio pulling about 2300RPM at 70 crusing, an still able to wax 95% of the cars on the street
IMO I would do something similiar to FASTFATBOY on here. Get some Bare RHS 235 Runner heads (about $550 a piece) and get them Reversed Cooled ($500) and send them to LE, AI, or Portpros (around $800). should be in the 320 Fow range on the intake and 230 on the exhaust on average. Match those heads to a Single plane ( don't have to convert the bolt pattern
) with a Stock sytle TB using a custom sheet metal elbow from intakeelbows.com or something similiar. That mixed with a high 23X duration cam or low 24X cam should net 500RWHP depending on the tranny or rearend which would have to be taken into account.For the rest of the motor I would like to see what that would do on a 355 spinning it to max PCM values but a 383 or 396 would fit the bill calming the camshaft and making that larger 235 Runner feel a little better with the more CI.
However you can always keep the pimp heads, get the shorblock built for boost with a lower CR, and run boost through it. Decided to go that route for better streetability and more Fun on the street IMO. 650-700RWHP with a Overdrive 4L80E with a 3.23-3.42 rear gear ratio pulling about 2300RPM at 70 crusing, an still able to wax 95% of the cars on the street
Thanks KID, I don't know if I would follow my lead just yet...mine has yet to be proven.That 235 cc runner doesn't stay 235 after porting.....my solid roller is in the 25x ish range and the high .600's on lift.BUT I popped for all the bells and whistles to have that kinda camshaft and drive it on the street.....you gotta realize that in 10,000 miles you gotta pop for new springs, locks, retainers and send the rockers back to be checked out. Just the nature of the beast...$800 can save a $13,000 engine and I am prepared to do that when the time comes.
What people also do not realize is all the trimmings that come with the 600(ish) FWHP LT1 dish.....it is ALOT of money to do it right, even if you are doing it yourself.
Headers
Exhaust
Transmission, clutch/converter
Driveshaft
Rear end
Torque Arm
Frame connectors
Suspension(ALL of it, why spend money on an engine if you can't get it to the ground?)
Cooling system
Fuel system
Tires, it will KILL tires.
It is alot more of a task than people think...you see alot of parted out projects because of this.
David
05-16-2007, 09:32 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
It is alot more of a task than people think...you see alot of parted out projects because of this.
David
05-16-2007, 10:26 PM
#50
Originally Posted by JasonShort
Second, let me start by giving you two pieces of advise on building a 500rwhp NA LT1. 1. ONLY listen to people who have actually built a motor like this for advise. You will get ALOT of poor advise from those who have never built a motor like this. 2. Pay $100 and buy a good used LT1 block and start building the motor before you take your car apart. Build the motor as you get the money, and enjoy driving your car in the meantime.....that way if it does take 6-12 months, you wont be hating the build up.
Jason
Jason
Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
It is alot more of a task than people think...you see alot of parted out projects because of this.
David
Oh..and I think I adjusted my rockers 4 times in 5 years of racing. Of course they saw less and less street miles in the later years but I found them to be pretty good at holding their lash. If you want to make all out power..max effort...solid is the way to go.
