So if you wanted a 500whp lt1.....
05-15-2007, 06:07 PM
#1
So if you wanted a 500whp lt1..... Ok.. Lets say that money was not an issue and you wanted a 500whp lt1 N/a What would you do?
I ask because I'm going to come up on a pretty good chunk of change here in a couple months and I really want about 500whp out of my car. N/a for now. but after awhile i would like to go to a blower or some spray.
try to stay with just bolt ons here. make me a list.
GO!
I ask because I'm going to come up on a pretty good chunk of change here in a couple months and I really want about 500whp out of my car. N/a for now. but after awhile i would like to go to a blower or some spray.
try to stay with just bolt ons here. make me a list.
GO!
05-15-2007, 06:08 PM
#2
On The Tree
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is no way your going to manage a simple bolt-on LT1 to 500RWHP. NA would require huge displacement, massive h/c combo that work well, among all the extra supporting mods.
05-15-2007, 06:19 PM
#3
Yeah see thats what i figured.. i didnt really want to do all that.. b/c i knwo if i take it apart im going to build the block like i should.. but thats where the money WOULD make a difference..
ok.. what would i need to do? I want 500hp n/a Still want to add some spray later and a blower.
ok.. what would i need to do? I want 500hp n/a Still want to add some spray later and a blower.
05-15-2007, 06:21 PM
#4
On The Tree
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm trying to accomplish that goal myself using a 396 LT4 solid roller setup. But we'll see if I manage to get that. The build i've done has cost way more then I ever planned on spending for my setup. I was just going to do a h/c package, then 383, and now i'm to an all out 396 LT4 solid roller, with full suspension and Moser 9" rear.
05-15-2007, 06:25 PM
#6
That is not a realistic goal. Yes a few guys have done it but they are solid roller basically race setups not street cars even if they are occassionally street driven. 383s revving right to the 7-7200 the pcm will allow.
A wild NA setup like this would have to be COMPLETELY reworked to accept boost if you decided to add a blower, nitrous would require less changes as long as the shot was reasonable, say 200 or less.
Better bet would be to set an ET goal and work for that rather than a HP number, they are not the same thing.
A wild NA setup like this would have to be COMPLETELY reworked to accept boost if you decided to add a blower, nitrous would require less changes as long as the shot was reasonable, say 200 or less.
Better bet would be to set an ET goal and work for that rather than a HP number, they are not the same thing.
Trending Topics
05-15-2007, 06:33 PM
#8
ok... so lets say i just take my block out and just straight up rebuild it, and stroke it. all forged.
I want something that im going to be able to spend money on... drive it.. then save some more and then throw a blower on it..
im looking for ideas.. so just throw them out. lets say i wanted to be in the mid to low 11's n/a.
I want something that im going to be able to spend money on... drive it.. then save some more and then throw a blower on it..
im looking for ideas.. so just throw them out. lets say i wanted to be in the mid to low 11's n/a.
05-15-2007, 06:42 PM
#13
Originally Posted by streetwarrior96
chunck of change better be like 15,000 to 20,000. on a solid setup and I dont "think" stock castings will get you there
People are FAR too quick to consider LT4 or aftermarket castings. At this level I might look at ported Trickflows but would not be so quick to ignore GM castings.
05-15-2007, 06:46 PM
#14
I will park the car and build it if i have to. its payed for..lol.. I alwasy wanted it to be a project car.
Im already in the makings of getting a tanny.. good for 700whp so im goon on that for a while.
Im already in the makings of getting a tanny.. good for 700whp so im goon on that for a while.
Last edited by JasonShort; 05-15-2007 at 07:32 PM. Reason: profane language
05-15-2007, 07:13 PM
#16
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I can think of three NA LT1s 490-520rwhp a couple of them through A4s with ported LT1 castings, one is even just a 355 the other two are 383s.
People are FAR too quick to consider LT4 or aftermarket castings. At this level I might look at ported Trickflows but would not be so quick to ignore GM castings.
People are FAR too quick to consider LT4 or aftermarket castings. At this level I might look at ported Trickflows but would not be so quick to ignore GM castings.
List please, only ONE I know of is Rick Abare with Lt1 castings.
David
05-15-2007, 07:38 PM
#17
Originally Posted by State69champ
I will park the car and build it if i have to. its payed for..lol.. I alwasy wanted it to be a project car.
Second, let me start by giving you two pieces of advise on building a 500rwhp NA LT1. 1. ONLY listen to people who have actually built a motor like this for advise. You will get ALOT of poor advise from those who have never built a motor like this. 2. Pay $100 and buy a good used LT1 block and start building the motor before you take your car apart. Build the motor as you get the money, and enjoy driving your car in the meantime.....that way if it does take 6-12 months, you wont be hating the build up.
If you do things right the first time, you can build one for $10k.
Jason
05-15-2007, 07:47 PM
#18
Mike Harris has an Impala with the AI 200cc castings, has modeled the setup after Rick's a bit. He is one to talk ET more than HP but he was BRACKET racing last weekend running 10.8 in a lightened but not stripped Impala race weight was 3855 last I asked him. 8" ATI converter something like 4000stall and 4L60E. He is shooting for 10.50 NA this season in an Impala, he built the shortblock and 4L60E himself
The other is SS Aleks was like 490std from a street 355 through an M6, again AI 200cc ported GM castings.
I wont claim these are average numbers just anyone will hit, you have to do things RIGHT which means probably doing things differently than the average forum poster will tell you to.
Everyone seems to think cubes=power so imagine what that little 355 would do if it were a 383. In reality the cubes wouldn't impact the peak number so much as the rpm at which the power occurs, seeing as it was peaking at 67-6800 more cubes would allow more cam and to still peak below 7000rpms so it is still controlable by the stock pcm.
The reason this car puts down such a high number when compared to more race oriented cars though is the M6, the guys running 8" ATI converters I bet are giving up 30hp on the dyno easily compared to the M6. But then again we don't race dynos those converters are good for ET even if they do soak up some power on the dyno.
All of these cars are ported LT1 intakes too.
The other is SS Aleks was like 490std from a street 355 through an M6, again AI 200cc ported GM castings.
I wont claim these are average numbers just anyone will hit, you have to do things RIGHT which means probably doing things differently than the average forum poster will tell you to.
Everyone seems to think cubes=power so imagine what that little 355 would do if it were a 383. In reality the cubes wouldn't impact the peak number so much as the rpm at which the power occurs, seeing as it was peaking at 67-6800 more cubes would allow more cam and to still peak below 7000rpms so it is still controlable by the stock pcm.
The reason this car puts down such a high number when compared to more race oriented cars though is the M6, the guys running 8" ATI converters I bet are giving up 30hp on the dyno easily compared to the M6. But then again we don't race dynos those converters are good for ET even if they do soak up some power on the dyno.
All of these cars are ported LT1 intakes too.
05-15-2007, 08:00 PM
#19
12 Second Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Norway
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JasonShort
Second, let me start by giving you two pieces of advise on building a 500rwhp NA LT1. 1. ONLY listen to people who have actually built a motor like this for advise. You will get ALOT of poor advise from those who have never built a motor like this. 2. Pay $100 and buy a good used LT1 block and start building the motor before you take your car apart. Build the motor as you get the money, and enjoy driving your car in the meantime.....that way if it does take 6-12 months, you wont be hating the build up.
If you do things right the first time, you can build one for $10k.
Jason