Got an E-cutout, please help me out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
Got an E-cutout, please help me out. I have an E-cutout that I bought used without a switch and harness.
THE PROBLEM:
When I go to close it, once it has reached the closed position and you let off the switch the thing cracks back open slightly and sounds bad. This happens cause of all the gear reduction tolerances adding up and then rebounding under the high torque of the gearbox.
It seems to me if the current going to the motor can be limited to just a tiny bit then the this will not happen. I am thinking that on the factory stock E-cutout switches and harnesses there may be a current limiting resistor attached to fix this problem.
Can anyone verify for me if they have a resistor or some other kind of circuit attached to their E-cutout switch.
Thanks
THE PROBLEM:
When I go to close it, once it has reached the closed position and you let off the switch the thing cracks back open slightly and sounds bad. This happens cause of all the gear reduction tolerances adding up and then rebounding under the high torque of the gearbox.
It seems to me if the current going to the motor can be limited to just a tiny bit then the this will not happen. I am thinking that on the factory stock E-cutout switches and harnesses there may be a current limiting resistor attached to fix this problem.
Can anyone verify for me if they have a resistor or some other kind of circuit attached to their E-cutout switch.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
Originally Posted by 92LT1RS
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say most people just accept it. I know I did. good luck figuring something out though.
Originally Posted by wrd1972
So I am assuming by this reply there is no resistor in line or on the switch to minimize current (power) going to the motor?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
Well it seams I am not the only one in this boat. I think it sounds like @#$% when it is cracked open just a tad.
If I can employ the same crappy electrical engineering like what GM used for power window motors (too much resistance robbing motor torque) there should be a very easy way to fix this. The motor just needs a minimal amount of power compared to what currently exists and the rebound effect might cease and easily close 100% like it should.
The e-cutout is nice but appears to seriously need some refining.
If I can employ the same crappy electrical engineering like what GM used for power window motors (too much resistance robbing motor torque) there should be a very easy way to fix this. The motor just needs a minimal amount of power compared to what currently exists and the rebound effect might cease and easily close 100% like it should.
The e-cutout is nice but appears to seriously need some refining.
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mine does it, actauly it only moves 60% either way so sound out one pipe and exhaust out other (borla) only a few months old and used for 500 miles if not less.... QTP has been in emails with me but iv been busy unable to work on it
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
I am going to try to drop the voltage from 12v to 6 volts for the motor, it may take longer to operate but maybe it wont rebound.
Last edited by wrd1972; Jun 18, 2007 at 06:54 PM.
my cut out has this huge *** switch (no tthe switch itself but the peice that is below what you see. I was going to change out the switches (bought mine used) but maybe that is what all of this is for. mine closes all the way and seals like a champ. the hardest place for me to keep sealed is between the cutout plate and the cutout tube. I keep blowing the rtv that I have been trying there. Maybe ill get a thin paper gasket or osmething soon.