stalled converter
im new to lt1's and auto's iv never had a auto before.. and now i do. iv never been into autos.. or researched anything or know much about them.. what exactly does a bigger stall do? or a stall in general.. i get confused? can someone elaborate on what it is?
in simple terms the gas peddle feels more sloshy. you can give it gas and it will take more to move it. (unless matched with gears) when you get on it though the rpms will jump to your stall size ex. 3000rpm and then grab the transmission. kinda like dumping a clutch at 3k.
sound right guys?
sound right guys?
With the right, quality converter you may barely know that you're using a higher stall converter during regular driving...But when you nail it it flashes to the desired stall rpm (give or take ..) and puts the car in the meat of the torque band quicker...Generally, you want the stall rpm to be 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor for n/a street/strip applications...
I guarantee you that just tapping the gas lightly with my Vig 3600 results in no slushy feel at all, the damn thing feels like it would jump out from under you if it could...Quality efficient converters like the Vigs don't have the slushy, sloppy part throttle feel of some of the junk thats out there...
I'm real picky about drivability and the Vigs are worth every penny, Don't skimp here...
--Alan
I guarantee you that just tapping the gas lightly with my Vig 3600 results in no slushy feel at all, the damn thing feels like it would jump out from under you if it could...Quality efficient converters like the Vigs don't have the slushy, sloppy part throttle feel of some of the junk thats out there...
I'm real picky about drivability and the Vigs are worth every penny, Don't skimp here...
--Alan
Originally Posted by z28hustle
what about with a 383 h/c lt1 car with a 234/24x cam?? looking to spray off of the line and down the track?? i like violent take offs... but i would also like to have the best times possible. for the record anything is streetable IMO, hell id drive a top fuel car on the street if i could get it to turn the corners..
Originally Posted by imnotplutonium
in simple terms the gas peddle feels more sloshy. you can give it gas and it will take more to move it. (unless matched with gears) when you get on it though the rpms will jump to your stall size ex. 3000rpm and then grab the transmission. kinda like dumping a clutch at 3k.
sound right guys?
sound right guys?
At an 800rpm hot idle my 3400 Edge pulls against the brakes harder than my wife's bone stock 03 Impala with the 3.4L does.
"information", and I use the term loosly, like you handed out is a holdover from a long time ago when all there was was restalled stock stuff that was grossly inefficient.
These days with a quality converter low speed drivability is great, I back out of my driveway without any throttle input. I would not go so far as to claim it feels completely stock but it is by no means sloppy. When I had the old 2800 in the car a fellow gearhead went for a ride in the car and puttering through town he actually suggested I put a high stall in. When we got to the edge of town aggressive application of the throttle made him realize there was one in it already. It just drove so well that from the passenger seat a low in town speeds with the windows open even he couldn't tell it was there.
oh ok. makes senses. so you build up rmps an then the trans takes effect. so if you have a 3200 stall itl rev till 3200 then grab. what would be a good stall for a stock lt1? im picking it up monday.. i belive it has a catback and a hypertech chip. witch will be replaced with a better tune. im also gonna get a qtp cutout for it. i just dont want to go overboard with a dd car
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 600
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Originally Posted by dhdenney
Your torque is gonna come on earlier so you want a lower stall speed to take advantage of that. Mine's a 3400 behind a 396 with a 236/245 cam. Seems like a good combo. a 3000-3400 wouldn't be a bad choice in my opinion. As Alan said, you want 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor for n/a. I can't remember what the rule of thumb is on nitrous.
IMHO, 4000 is way too much for a stroker cuz the torque band is broader and flatter. Doesn't Vig offer a free restall before a certain time period? Maybe you have exceeded that.
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no one has mentioned this yet....even if you go with a 2800-3000 stall, go ahead and have your PCM tuned for the converter. I went thru 3 trannys in one month due to a lack of tuning while a TCI 3000. It is just something that OBDI cars have to deal with....
now if you're OBDII, don't worry about it, I don't think they have the "high stall issue".
now if you're OBDII, don't worry about it, I don't think they have the "high stall issue".
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by The LT1 That Could
no one has mentioned this yet....even if you go with a 2800-3000 stall, go ahead and have your PCM tuned for the converter. I went thru 3 trannys in one month due to a lack of tuning while a TCI 3000. It is just something that OBDI cars have to deal with....
now if you're OBDII, don't worry about it, I don't think they have the "high stall issue".
now if you're OBDII, don't worry about it, I don't think they have the "high stall issue".
i bet its thinking "HOLD UP!!! Lemme go ahead and show my ***...
" 
if you go over to the automatic section on this site.there is some good explaination on the pro's and con's of a higher stall mabe that will help.i think some other people here should take a look also.
the main reason to have your PCM tuned after converter swap is the fact to help with surging idle issues, and for us OBD1 guys, the infamous Stall wall. There are certain things to tweak to help with the stall issue. Still sometimes it will do it no matter what you do. Generally its for stalls over 3600rpm
JTSLP559, it wont revv to the designated rpm and then grab. its more like slipping the clutch in a manual. Most aftermarket higher efficiency converters usually will drive like stock under the stall speed. It might require slightly more pedal effort to get the car moving.
JTSLP559, it wont revv to the designated rpm and then grab. its more like slipping the clutch in a manual. Most aftermarket higher efficiency converters usually will drive like stock under the stall speed. It might require slightly more pedal effort to get the car moving.
Originally Posted by JTSLP559
well is it worth it if you dont take your car to the track? does a higher stall have any downsides?
Originally Posted by imnotplutonium
so I will still notice a large difference with installing an aftermarket one? or just feel a slight better grab.
One of the things that I do not think was mentioned yet was that besides giving insane 60' times, and high stall will keep your rpm's from dropping between shifts. Instead of going way down in the rpms after every shift like a stock stall does, the rpms will only slightly lower depending on the stall speed and the curves for engine output
. At certain throttle positions you can accelerate steadily, shift, and keep accelerating with the rpms barely moving at all up or down.Arguably longtubes and stall should be the first mods to any auto after intake/exhaust. Some say gears/stall, but most everyone will agree that a nice quality stall should be high on the list. For bolt-on LT1s I would say go for 2800-3200, but its pretty opinionated and some say much higher. IMO there is no point in staying well above your useable torque - fastest acceleration is at peak torque, not horsepower. Then, once you go bigger cam or more radical mods you can have it restalled or purchase another one to match your new power curves.
Vigi 3200, had it since 2003, worked flawlessly all this time, cut 1.8s on street tires with a dead stock suspension, cuts 1.72s now with the stock 3.23 gearing and a modded suspension on a worn out Nitto drag radial. Car driver perfect on the street, could not be happier