JTSLP559

iTrader: (3)

im new to lt1's and auto's iv never had a auto before.. and now i do. iv never been into autos.. or researched anything or know much about them.. what exactly does a bigger stall do? or a stall in general.. i get confused? can someone elaborate on what it is?

imnotplutonium

iTrader: (4)

in simple terms the gas peddle feels more sloshy. you can give it gas and it will take more to move it. (unless matched with gears) when you get on it though the rpms will jump to your stall size ex. 3000rpm and then grab the transmission. kinda like dumping a clutch at 3k.

sound right guys?

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

With the right, quality converter you may barely know that you're using a higher stall converter during regular driving...But when you nail it it flashes to the desired stall rpm (give or take ..) and puts the car in the meat of the torque band quicker...Generally, you want the stall rpm to be 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor for n/a street/strip applications...

I guarantee you that just tapping the gas lightly with my Vig 3600 results in no slushy feel at all, the damn thing feels like it would jump out from under you if it could...Quality efficient converters like the Vigs don't have the slushy, sloppy part throttle feel of some of the junk thats out there...

I'm real picky about drivability and the Vigs are worth every penny, Don't skimp here...

--Alan

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Your torque is gonna come on earlier so you want a lower stall speed to take advantage of that. Mine's a 3400 behind a 396 with a 236/245 cam. Seems like a good combo. a 3000-3400 wouldn't be a bad choice in my opinion. As Alan said, you want 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor for n/a. I can't remember what the rule of thumb is on nitrous.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

At an 800rpm hot idle my 3400 Edge pulls against the brakes harder than my wife's bone stock 03 Impala with the 3.4L does.

"information", and I use the term loosly, like you handed out is a holdover from a long time ago when all there was was restalled stock stuff that was grossly inefficient.

These days with a quality converter low speed drivability is great, I back out of my driveway without any throttle input. I would not go so far as to claim it feels completely stock but it is by no means sloppy. When I had the old 2800 in the car a fellow gearhead went for a ride in the car and puttering through town he actually suggested I put a high stall in. When we got to the edge of town aggressive application of the throttle made him realize there was one in it already. It just drove so well that from the passenger seat a low in town speeds with the windows open even he couldn't tell it was there.

JTSLP559

iTrader: (3)

oh ok. makes senses. so you build up rmps an then the trans takes effect. so if you have a 3200 stall itl rev till 3200 then grab. what would be a good stall for a stock lt1? im picking it up monday.. i belive it has a catback and a hypertech chip. witch will be replaced with a better tune. im also gonna get a qtp cutout for it. i just dont want to go overboard with a dd car

z28hustle

the car has a 2800 vig in it right now but im thinking about my 60ft times primarily because i know thats where you get the times in the 1/4 id really like to spray it off the line as well.. people have been recommending 3500 rpm stalls and some people (mostly the person i bought the car from) say i should get a 4000 rpm stall converter. i definitely dont want to feel like i should have gotten a bigger one once i get this one restalled or end up buying a new one for a new tranny. Im enjoying the idea of an overdrive not to mention id hate to waste a good vig stall.. ive been told it can be restalled to whatever size i want..

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

IMHO, 4000 is way too much for a stroker cuz the torque band is broader and flatter. Doesn't Vig offer a free restall before a certain time period? Maybe you have exceeded that.

z28hustle

its definitely been past a free restall period but i dont mind paying for what i want

The LT1 That Could

iTrader: (3)

no one has mentioned this yet....even if you go with a 2800-3000 stall, go ahead and have your PCM tuned for the converter. I went thru 3 trannys in one month due to a lack of tuning while a TCI 3000. It is just something that OBDI cars have to deal with....

now if you're OBDII, don't worry about it, I don't think they have the "high stall issue".

imnotplutonium

iTrader: (4)

so I will still notice a large difference with installing an aftermarket one? or just feel a slight better grab.

z28hustle

the car should always be tuned after a mod for the most part which is why we should try putting everything together "completely" before rushing and try to get it running, no need to pay for 3 or 4 dyno tunes after each mod. But its probably a good idea to get the car tuned after a stall so.. yea. think about what your pcm is thinking when it notices that the rpms are trippin out...


i bet its thinking "HOLD UP!!! Lemme go ahead and show my ***... "

SincalT/A

iTrader: (16)

if you go over to the automatic section on this site.there is some good explaination on the pro's and con's of a higher stall mabe that will help.i think some other people here should take a look also.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

the main reason to have your PCM tuned after converter swap is the fact to help with surging idle issues, and for us OBD1 guys, the infamous Stall wall. There are certain things to tweak to help with the stall issue. Still sometimes it will do it no matter what you do. Generally its for stalls over 3600rpm

JTSLP559, it wont revv to the designated rpm and then grab. its more like slipping the clutch in a manual. Most aftermarket higher efficiency converters usually will drive like stock under the stall speed. It might require slightly more pedal effort to get the car moving.

JTSLP559

iTrader: (3)

well is it worth it if you dont take your car to the track? does a higher stall have any downsides?

grn95t/a

iTrader: (10)

edge 3600 here! wouldn't trade it for anything! car shifts much better and moves much quicker now!

The LT1 That Could

iTrader: (3)

higher tranny temps, more pedal effort on daily driven applications, nothing you can really consider a downside....just minor stuff.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Huge difference.

One of the things that I do not think was mentioned yet was that besides giving insane 60' times, and high stall will keep your rpm's from dropping between shifts. Instead of going way down in the rpms after every shift like a stock stall does, the rpms will only slightly lower depending on the stall speed and the curves for engine output . At certain throttle positions you can accelerate steadily, shift, and keep accelerating with the rpms barely moving at all up or down.

Arguably longtubes and stall should be the first mods to any auto after intake/exhaust. Some say gears/stall, but most everyone will agree that a nice quality stall should be high on the list. For bolt-on LT1s I would say go for 2800-3200, but its pretty opinionated and some say much higher. IMO there is no point in staying well above your useable torque - fastest acceleration is at peak torque, not horsepower. Then, once you go bigger cam or more radical mods you can have it restalled or purchase another one to match your new power curves.

JTSLP559

iTrader: (3)

hmm well i dont take my car to the track often at all. no time, so what would be a good street stall?

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Vigi 3200, had it since 2003, worked flawlessly all this time, cut 1.8s on street tires with a dead stock suspension, cuts 1.72s now with the stock 3.23 gearing and a modded suspension on a worn out Nitto drag radial. Car driver perfect on the street, could not be happier