fast

iTrader: (24)

so the bmr and burkhart plates completely remove the system?
I want to keep my heater and I don't have access to fab equipment anymore 8(

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

Did you not see the pic I posted above? What's left of the HVAC box in that pic is the heater section. All you need to do is cut a section out of the center and put in an air diverter plate and it's a done deal. You can just drill holes in the firewall blockoff plate for the heater core pipes to feed through.

Do a search on "themerv." He has a thread that shows where the center section needs to be cut and how the air diverter plate needs to be mounted.

fast

iTrader: (24)

I asked a simple question, the pre-fab plates are meant for a complete removal of ALL hvac?
see simple question
I simply want a nice plate to cover it and don't have a way to make one at home

fwiw I do appreciate the pics and tips from everyone

edited: took out my pissy comment, search not working for me, already had a link from the_merv showing his finished plate

would you elaborate on 'air diverter plate' some please, pic helpful too /duck

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

I looked up this thread but the pics seem to be missing:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/592011-heating-problem-fixed.html

Maybe you should just try PM'ing "the_merv" and ask him if he'll show you.

fast

iTrader: (24)

you are prob'ly right on the pm

found a good pic from 11secss and a good post from bradws6

thanks again ts&tf
gonna pull mine tomorrow then maybe it'll all make more sense to me

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I'll post them again when I get home tomorrow for you guys. IMO..taking off the Dash is a little more work than necessary, unless you are completely removing everything. Those that did it, yours look sharp.

I'm suprised that I got in the Thread this late..usually I am all over this stuff. Shows how bust I have been with my Car. UMI Drag Suspension went in yesterday, and I am picking up the fully-built 4L60E tomorrow, hopefully the Rotating Assembly balanced by the Machine Shop is ready also.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

sounds good man make sure to post up some pics of the new setup.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Here is a mock-up of it..

This is the Engine that is goin in, I had it together without the Internals checking clearances.


Specs:
6.6l 402ci Displacement using 6.0l Iron Block

GM 6.0l Truck Iron Block
L92 Heads, Stock, PRC .660 Lift Dual-Coil Springs
TX Speed Hardened Push Rods
L76 Intake, Holley 90mm TB, Complete LS2 Fuel Injection
Custom Cam 243/247, .621(XFI)/.612(X-ER), 114+3LSA, LS2 Timing Set
Eagle Forged 4340 4.000 Crank, Eagle 4340 Forged 6.125" H-Beam Rods
Mahle Forged -12cc Pistons, 4.000" Bore, 400g weight
Felpro 1041 Head Gaskets
Clevite H-series Bearings
Melling High-Pressure Oil Pump
Everything essential needed to fit in a F-body(Oil Pan, Accessories..etc.)
Fully Balanced, Fully Tuned to mess people up..

L92 Heads

L76 Intake

Custom made Harness that I built

Yank SS3600 Stall

A full Tubular, partially Adjustable Racing Suspension from UMI Performance will be under the back of it.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Here is the AC stuff..

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

daaammmmnnn that engine is sick

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Thanks. I ran into a minor delay with it, one of my Main Cap Bolts had a stress crack in it, and when I was doing my Torque Sequences it broke off in the Block. I got it out no problems, but that stops me from building it up any further. I was planning on having the complete Shortblock done by tonight.

LT1Z/28

BMR's plate does look nice, glad to see someone making it

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

If the heater is removed can the coolant lines running to it just be looped together around the radiator area, eliminating them altogether?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

You don't want to cap them, just loop it into itself right after they come out of the Pump.

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

Capping them off won't hurt anything, in fact I pulled all the pipes out of my pump and installed aluminum NPT fittings in their places.

If you decide to loop them, keep in mind that both of those pipes are different diameters. It would probably be easier to use a hose that fits the larger lower pipe than to try and wrestle a hose with a smaller I.D that fits the upper pipe onto the lower one.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

well i took your advice the_merv and just removed the part that was under the hood. Mine looks just like yours minus mine still has that flap inside to choose ac or heater. do i need to remove this?and also that plate that people keep saying that you put inside of there what is it? and yea it took me about 2 hrs. hot engine and all. not fun

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Some get bitchy when you cap them..that's cool to know for those hardcore guys that delete everything.

Keep that in there..you can control the amount of Heat with that.
Believe it or not..when I did that mod, I put it to AC and it blew colder than when the actual AC was in the Car..

That is a passage for the Blower Motor to blow Air into the Heater Core. If you leave that big piece of plastic there, you are goin to **** yourself cause you won't have anything working there. You have to make a passage to get air through the Heater Core.

How was it with the Engine in..I did it with it out, sat on the K-Member. Having a Strut Tower Brace sucks *** when you try to sit there..

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

wasnt to bad.Angle grinder,hammer, long iron rod, and alot of cuts on my hand. I stood on the passenger side and didit. Didnt take me toolong, just got burnt on the exhaust a few times.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

and i had to remove all the controls so mine will just have one blower speed, and all the vents blowing at one when mine is on. I am thinking about butting in a bypass valve on the heater core lines to stop the heat.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Just keep the Door there..it is controlled by a Cable.