lookin for some tips
#2
Depending on your mechanical ability, don't plan on doing it in one day...just in case. Mine took about 18-20 hours of actual work, due to rusted parts not coming off easily and other complications. But then again, I was working by myself the whole time, had to stop and run to Sears where I work because I couldn't get the O2 sensor out of the manifold, and I had to put them in from up top since my jack and jackstands couldn't safely get high enough.
I'm sure you've researched this. Pull the alternator, starter, plugs, wires, and disconnect the steering linkage.
Be gentle around your sensors on the sides of the engine. Pull the coolant sensor from the passenger side. Don't break your oil pressure sensor like I did. You have a 94 I see, that means it is sticking out directly above your oil filter. You will probably have to remove the rubber shielding around it.
Just make sure you have all the tools you need, and work slowly as to not forget anything.
I'm sure you've researched this. Pull the alternator, starter, plugs, wires, and disconnect the steering linkage.
Be gentle around your sensors on the sides of the engine. Pull the coolant sensor from the passenger side. Don't break your oil pressure sensor like I did. You have a 94 I see, that means it is sticking out directly above your oil filter. You will probably have to remove the rubber shielding around it.
Just make sure you have all the tools you need, and work slowly as to not forget anything.
#3
thanks, yea i planned on taking my time and making sure everything goes right. i have heard that going from the bottom is easier but everyone does it different and i guess i will find out what is going to work for me. did you need any special tools or was it just the typical things that most car people have?
#4
I have heard it's easier from the bottom as well. My jack and stands are junk Duralast though, so I made it work from above. It wasn't THAT bad. Pass side is easy with the valve cover off. Driver's side is a bit more difficult with the steering linkage there.
As far as tools, the O2 sensors are a large size, 22mm or something around there. I don't remember exactly, but I didn't have a wrench for it or an O2 socket. Most everything was done with a set of wrenches, a set of sockets, 2 3/8 inch ratchets, and one 1/2" drive. If yours is like mine, most of the manifold to y-pipe bolts will snap, no matter how well they are soaked. The manifold bolts all came out relatively easy, and the Pacesetter bolts have to be tightened with a wrench as a socket hits the primaries and doesn't fit.
Make sure you have provisions for your O2 extensions before you start. Either prefabbed extensions or a soldering gun to make them. If you have race version headers, you'll need E.G.R. block-off plates and a bit of flexibility lol. If you have the emissions headers, I can't help you much with that, other than to say make sure you hook up all of the ****.
That's all I can really think of right now. If you have any specific questions, I'll try to help.
As far as tools, the O2 sensors are a large size, 22mm or something around there. I don't remember exactly, but I didn't have a wrench for it or an O2 socket. Most everything was done with a set of wrenches, a set of sockets, 2 3/8 inch ratchets, and one 1/2" drive. If yours is like mine, most of the manifold to y-pipe bolts will snap, no matter how well they are soaked. The manifold bolts all came out relatively easy, and the Pacesetter bolts have to be tightened with a wrench as a socket hits the primaries and doesn't fit.
Make sure you have provisions for your O2 extensions before you start. Either prefabbed extensions or a soldering gun to make them. If you have race version headers, you'll need E.G.R. block-off plates and a bit of flexibility lol. If you have the emissions headers, I can't help you much with that, other than to say make sure you hook up all of the ****.
That's all I can really think of right now. If you have any specific questions, I'll try to help.