ah ok because you didnt have your springs listed.

mine has comp 918s so im planning on throwing some GMPP RRs in it from the hotcam kit.

 

Keep up the good work.
Need to get some more gear and less tire!!

FYI- the DA when my car went 11.80 was 72'

 

badass, congrats, that's awesome, especially with a stock cam.

 

Nice job! I was on my way to chasing down the record too, but my plans got shot down when I had to sell my car last month due to a divorce. More gear, less tire, and maybe a PCM tune and you're in the 11s for sure.

 

Good job! That is impressive.

 

Nice Times!
I wish I was brave enough to cut 1.6 60's
After so many horror stories of grenading the rear end, I take it easy off the line and run 12.0 @ 117


Hopefully when I swap the heads out soon I'll have a pile of stuff I don't have to put back in. She needed to go on a diet anyways

 

Well I am trying to get more gear, and the tires were a good deal so I couldn't pass it up... But yes, I know it isn't the greatest combo, and will fix that if need be, but wouldn't it be funny to get close with this mismatch?

Thanks, it's a great compliment coming from all you guys...

 

If it break, it breaks, this is why I take a trailer with me and have a spare 10 bolt at home ready to swap right in if needed...

Oh BTW, my wife loves your screen name, and said that it was creative...

 

Yes, it would be an awesome accomplishment. You are so close now, it's not even funny. To run those times in the dead of summer and with those gears and that tire. You have the hp and could maybe squeeze a little more out, but the combo is far from mismatch. I've ran the same wheel/tire combo on the street myself. It helped for gas mileage with an A3. Good luck and hope you meet your goal!

 

Awesome times! Must be a badass converter you got there!

 

Heres what I can't understand. If bolt on LT1s are doing low 12's, why aren't HC/FI LT1's going faster more easily? Where was that run at? Englishtown? Atco?

 

Thanks for the complements guys...


LS1 Eddie - It all depends on the setup, I know some guys with H/C LT1's that are 4-500# more then me and they wonder why we run the same, or why I am faster. My car and combo has been coming together for years where I slowly do things and tweek it until I no longer can. I have pulled out a lot of weight and that is a big part of it. Just think about the rule of thumb for weight reduction, roughly .1 ET reduction per 100# removed. Then if you think to gain .1 in ET reduction by adding power you would need to add 10-12 HP, and a basic H/C setup is normally only good for 40-50 HP, what does that tell you? The one who pulled 4-500# out of the car overall will run faster if the 2 cars started at the same spot. But now how many of those H/C or FI guys actually have the whole setup optimized? Probably not too many since some don't even have most bolt-ons and they more then likely, no offense to anyone, are just trowing money at it and not workiing it to it's fullest potential...

Oh and I have never been to Englishtown, I have gone to Atco a few times, but most of the time I go to Cecil...

 

What all have you done to gut the car?

 

very impressive times, you're going to be on shon's heels if you manage to get a good DA

 

The most recent pics are in post #12...

But essentially I removed:
- AIR
- Cruise Control
- TCS
- EGR
- HVAC and wiring
- PS pump (looped the stock rack)
- front swaybar
- Stereo
- speakers and wiring
- passenger seat and belt
- rear seats and seatbelts
- spare and jack
- catback
- all undercar heatshielding
- sound deadening/padding from under the carpet and from the firewall
- bumper supports
- airbags including all sensors and wiring
- a whole lot of clips, wirelooms, screws, nuts, and bolts from pulling all the above

Wow, I thought that list would have been longer...

Some misc things that added or removed weight already:
- 1" spohn Drag bar (added 7#)
- custom made CM subframe connectors (added 10#)
- racing batery (removed 18#)
- Vig converter (removed 5#)
- home made Alt relocation bracket (???, it added weight over nothing, but was needed and weighed less then the factory accessory bracket, so call it removed 2#)
- draglites (removed 15# or more, can't remember exactly)

I still have a few little things I can still remove in the future like:
- door bars
- washer tank/pump
- power antanae and bracket, if I can find something to fill the hole that would be left in te 1/4 panel
- hood and hatch shocks
- center console
- horns, or at least one of them
- underhood wiring for items no longer in use (the first list)

Plus the things that I need money for:
- front suspension (K-member, A-arms, shocks, springs, and etc.)
- lightweight brakes, front and rear
- ABS delete kit
- Fibreglass hood
- manual rack
- manual brakes
- aftermarket coolant overflow
- lightweight seat

After I ever get to that point I will start cutting:
- Frame horns
- interior brackets (mounts for rear seats, seatbelts, and etc.)
- subfenders
- and misc, swiss cheesing

I'm sure there are things I have missed but that is most of it...

 

that's the idea...

 

Bring it!!
On the antenna stuff, I just left the factory plug there but removed everything else that I could but mine still has the nub to screw the antenna too b/c like you I did not find a cap for it.

 

Slow,

Congrats on your times!

According to your own tire/gear caculator, you should have been taching approx 5 grand at the finish line, in 3rd. That about right?

Cheers -- Gary

 

To be completely honest, I'm not sure if that is right or not? Most of my racing is done in index classes. I run in the 12.5 index, and have to lift at the end to stay near 12.5, the last race I was @ I broke out (ran too fast) during the first round with a 12.485 @ 104.26 (see the run sheet here, go to the Purnell AMI class, the 4th post down and it is listed under John P.) so the RPM's and subsequently MPH aren't up because of letting out of it...

The only reason I even ran the 12.3 runs were because we had an all run event so qualifying didn't count (I qualified 44th), and I wanted to see how she would do running it all out, but I still didn't look at the tach, sorry. But it does sound about right, because it sounded like I had more room on the top end...

 

To get the max, it needs to run at 6000ish on the top end :-) we spun mine to 6300+