synthetic world
Originally Posted by buffman
I wanted to add that these threads pop up every couple of weeks. Some of you guys need to do a search on what's been covered 
Alternately, Walmart sells a full synthetic oil for about 13 bucks for 5 quarts.
Interestingly enough, it has exactly the same grade certifications as the stuff that costs 5 times as much.
I will warn this: a motor that has a fair amount of burned dino oil stuck to various parts - oil pan, heads, valley... is not gonna like synthetics, as they tend to clean the baked on crap off and set it loose to float around in the oil system, and not all will get caught by the filter or oil pickup screen.
Note that the 'I changed to synthetic and my engine then had oiling problem X' is explained by this: the problem is NOT the synthetic, it's the crap you have in the motor already. Hence better results with break a new motor in on conventional oil, then switch to synthetic. (be sure it's fully broken in.... once you go synthetic, it really won't do much more to seat rings, ever.) Start with a clean oil system, and synthetics will keep it that way. Start with worn seals and crud in the oil system, and the cleaning ability of synthetic may well give you troubles.
Interestingly enough, it has exactly the same grade certifications as the stuff that costs 5 times as much.
I will warn this: a motor that has a fair amount of burned dino oil stuck to various parts - oil pan, heads, valley... is not gonna like synthetics, as they tend to clean the baked on crap off and set it loose to float around in the oil system, and not all will get caught by the filter or oil pickup screen.
Note that the 'I changed to synthetic and my engine then had oiling problem X' is explained by this: the problem is NOT the synthetic, it's the crap you have in the motor already. Hence better results with break a new motor in on conventional oil, then switch to synthetic. (be sure it's fully broken in.... once you go synthetic, it really won't do much more to seat rings, ever.) Start with a clean oil system, and synthetics will keep it that way. Start with worn seals and crud in the oil system, and the cleaning ability of synthetic may well give you troubles.
Originally Posted by Boodyrider
Alternately, Walmart sells a full synthetic oil for about 13 bucks for 5 quarts.
Interestingly enough, it has exactly the same grade certifications as the stuff that costs 5 times as much.
I will warn this: a motor that has a fair amount of burned dino oil stuck to various parts - oil pan, heads, valley... is not gonna like synthetics, as they tend to clean the baked on crap off and set it loose to float around in the oil system, and not all will get caught by the filter or oil pickup screen.
Interestingly enough, it has exactly the same grade certifications as the stuff that costs 5 times as much.
I will warn this: a motor that has a fair amount of burned dino oil stuck to various parts - oil pan, heads, valley... is not gonna like synthetics, as they tend to clean the baked on crap off and set it loose to float around in the oil system, and not all will get caught by the filter or oil pickup screen.
That's why it's recommended to use something like Auto-rx to clean all that stuff beforehand. And the oil filter is still going to trap it, unless you have some POS filter or a really dirty engine that fills the filter up really fast and you decide not to change it out at a decent interval.
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Guys do a search here, Matt, myself and a FEW others have posted the links to the proof of what oils are good and less good for this motor. MOST of you just go off of marketting BS like the Vette using M1. The Vette needed synthetic because of no oil cooler, 15 years ago there were a lot fewer synthetic choices and I assure you marketting and money played a big part in who got that contract. Also consider the average Vette is NOT abused they are driven around by guys who want to say "I have a Vette" and as long as those make it through waranty that is all GM cares about.
The popular weights of M1 exhibit high iron wear in the LT1 and LS1. I am talking about MEASURED wear metal content in used oil in actual street/strip cars. Not lab oil tests, not the latest comercial on TV.
The popular weights of M1 exhibit high iron wear in the LT1 and LS1. I am talking about MEASURED wear metal content in used oil in actual street/strip cars. Not lab oil tests, not the latest comercial on TV.
I have used Mobil 1 synthetic on 2 sports cars, for over 90K miles, 45K on my LT1 and it has been excellent oil.
Synthetic oil is good for ALL high-performance cars. It doesnt need to be a car you trailer to the track.
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Again you prove you have not researeched it. RP is good for a race car but does not hold up on the street.
Originally Posted by burnzilla
I have used Mobil 1 synthetic on 2 sports cars, for over 90K miles, 45K on my LT1 and it has been excellent oil.
Synthetic oil is good for ALL high-performance cars. It doesnt need to be a car you trailer to the track.
Synthetic oil is good for ALL high-performance cars. It doesnt need to be a car you trailer to the track.
I used m1 0w40. It didn't seem to be the best choice. Waiting to get some miles on GC to see if it's any better. I never had oil temps over 250 degrees on one oil change with m1 0w40, but I had signs of heat stress on the motor oil.
Matt
Originally Posted by burnzilla
I have used Mobil 1 synthetic on 2 sports cars, for over 90K miles, 45K on my LT1 and it has been excellent oil.
Synthetic oil is good for ALL high-performance cars. It doesnt need to be a car you trailer to the track.
Synthetic oil is good for ALL high-performance cars. It doesnt need to be a car you trailer to the track.
Were those LT1 or LS1 cars and did you do Used Oil Analysis to KNOW it was doing good?
I saw a report for 15K highway miles on a 1.8T VW with M1 5w-30 and it looked great. This is not a VW 1.8T though. Different motors like different oils and there is more too it than viscosity.
Synthetic actually shines better in long oil change intervals so I would put it in a daily driver before a trailer queen.
Originally Posted by buffman
RP doesn't hold up best standard/extended oil changes from what little I've read. It's a good oil to use for racing when you change it out every 1000 miles or so.
I used m1 0w40. It didn't seem to be the best choice. Waiting to get some miles on GC to see if it's any better. I never had oil temps over 250 degrees on one oil change with m1 0w40, but I had signs of heat stress on the motor oil.
Matt
I used m1 0w40. It didn't seem to be the best choice. Waiting to get some miles on GC to see if it's any better. I never had oil temps over 250 degrees on one oil change with m1 0w40, but I had signs of heat stress on the motor oil.
Matt
Well I think the big message about M1 is not that it's bad oil. The thinner weights like their 5w-30 and 10w-30 are well..... thin. Read product data sheets and it tells the story. The 5w-30 extended performance is actually a little thicker than the 10w-30 EP. The high mileage 10w-30 is thicker yet. Performance is not all about viscosity but it's at least some of it. That's what Caprice and Buff are saying--that the M1 oils are a little thin in the popular weights.
