Newbie to the LT1 world! Need some help
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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From: Texas
Newbie to the LT1 world! Need some help Okay first off I dont know that much about the LT based engines. My previous experience is with LS based stuff. I have a few questions.
1. I found what I think is a sweet deal on LT4 heads ($150). Is it worth the trouble doing the whole swap? i.e. Intake and such?
2. The same guy with the LT4 heads also has the block they came off of, so could that be a 4 bolt block? He only wants $150 for the whole package.
3. Is the 4 bolt block any stonger than the 2 bolt? Should I convert My 2 bolt to a 4 bolt splayed?
There has been alot of sleepless nights with me trying to put together a package for this engine. I would like to out down at least 400 rwhp on a budget, so any info would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah this engine is going in a 92 chevy 1/2 ton ext. cab with a nv3500 <--(will it hold up?)
1. I found what I think is a sweet deal on LT4 heads ($150). Is it worth the trouble doing the whole swap? i.e. Intake and such?
2. The same guy with the LT4 heads also has the block they came off of, so could that be a 4 bolt block? He only wants $150 for the whole package.
3. Is the 4 bolt block any stonger than the 2 bolt? Should I convert My 2 bolt to a 4 bolt splayed?
There has been alot of sleepless nights with me trying to put together a package for this engine. I would like to out down at least 400 rwhp on a budget, so any info would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah this engine is going in a 92 chevy 1/2 ton ext. cab with a nv3500 <--(will it hold up?)
welcome. obviously the 4 bolt is gonna be stronger, and if your gonna be building an engine anyway, you might as well start with the 4 bolt as long as there is nothing wrong with it (which i find kinda hard to believe since its only 150$) as for the heads ive heard mixed opinions but ide say they would be better. however, if you are looking for 400 hp, your gonna have to port them anyway so it probably dont make a hole lot of difference. just my 2 cents
Well, call LE for the best opinion on the heads, falcon is right, going to have to port them anyways, if you are going above 500 flywheel HP a 4 bolt is a really good idea, above 700 flywheel HP it is a good idea tp splay a 2 bolt.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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From: Texas
I dont know the condition of the block the heads are what caught my eye. I already have a LT1 on the stand just begging to be dropped in, but I thought about swapping all the internals into the 4 bolt block (if it is decent) just for piece of mind down the road. I also need a wiring harness and ecu. Would an ecu from an auto work if it was reflashed? They seem more abundant.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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From: Texas
This is what I had in mind.
Stock bottom end
Stock heads (ported)
Stock intake (ported)
52mm TB
Smoothed lifter valley
cc 918's or equiv.(prefer ones that stay in 1 piece)
1.6 rr's
1 piece moly pushrods
lt4 timing chain
cc306 or gm847 (cant decide)
HV oil pump
Elec. WP
Hooker LT's
Opti w/ msd wires
underdrive pulleys
A/C delete
SVO 30#ers
NV3500
Stock flywheel
Decent clutch
Can decide on exhaust
Whatchyall think?
Stock bottom end
Stock heads (ported)
Stock intake (ported)
52mm TB
Smoothed lifter valley
cc 918's or equiv.(prefer ones that stay in 1 piece)
1.6 rr's
1 piece moly pushrods
lt4 timing chain
cc306 or gm847 (cant decide)
HV oil pump
Elec. WP
Hooker LT's
Opti w/ msd wires
underdrive pulleys
A/C delete
SVO 30#ers
NV3500
Stock flywheel
Decent clutch
Can decide on exhaust
Whatchyall think?
Well, sounds ok, dont need to worry about the lifter valley till you are consisyantly staying above 5,500 rpm or you are redlining 7k+, wouldnt hurt to install ARP rod bolts, cam choice sounds ok if you are not looking for tons of power and the injectors might be a little big.
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All you can get? Well, if you want allot of HP you need to step areound 240/246 duration@.050, the lift will be around .560ish, it will be radical and beat the ground but it will pull to 6250-6500RPM with the heads and intake done right, then the injectors might not be too big.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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From: Texas
A 2 bolt converted into a splayed 4 bolt will be stronger than a 4 bolt imo. The 4 bolt block is weak in the main webbing area due to GM drilling the outer holes to deep. The splayed 4 bolt will drastically reduce core shift and main cap walking due to the outer bolt being angled to the outside. The bolts of the main caps will look something like this.. / I I \. A 2bolt block is good up to aroung 500hp. Whenever you convert a 2 bolt block you should align hone it because of core shift due to the drilling process of the outer holes, but any good machine shop knows the steps involved. There are alot of people making tons of power with standard 4 bolt blocks. I've seen them making over 1,000hp with no problems. It is all in the quality of the product, machine work and assembly that matters the most. These are my opinions and it is like an *******, everyone has one.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
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From: Texas
Ok, now I'm confused. Can someone show me a dyno chart or some E.T. numbers. I know that there are many ways to do this but I would rather learn from someone else's trials and errors. I would like to see the difference in these cams or one better. I have read and heard different things about the cc306 and the gm847, but if someone can show me a better cam selection then that will help clear things up abit. I'm basing my selection of the cc306 amd the gm847 from numbers alone and I really like the way each one sounds. I know that have a great sounding cam can wind up being all bark and no bite. I have been down that road before. I dont want to go trough this build twice.