anit seize on head bolts and spark plugs
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i put headers in and spark plugs and i didnt put anti seize on any thing and i was wondering if this could cause me problems but it hasnt been that long so i was goin to take out the header bolts one at a time and anti seize them and same with spark plugs but is it really that important?
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Originally Posted by cruzin94
i put headers in and spark plugs and i didnt put anti seize on any thing and i was wondering if this could cause me problems but it hasnt been that long so i was goin to take out the header bolts one at a time and anti seize them and same with spark plugs but is it really that important?
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Originally Posted by SELLC
I am supprised you did not bust the farthest back drivers side manifold bolt! I see more broken there than anywhere else. Anti-Seize on the exhaust manifold bolts may not be the best idea since it gets really hot. I find that Anti-Seize in areas that get REAL HOT turns to dust and actually hinders the removal. Same with the spark plug holes. Just my 2 cents.
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Originally Posted by matt94z
Always use anti sieze when putting steel bolts in aluminum. This includes spark plugs. If you don't, more than likely you will pull the threads out of the head, IF you can get them out.
BTW when you say "Head Bolt" some may confuse that with Cylinder Head Bolts. Cylinder head bolts need silicone on the bottom run of bolts in case any rookies read this and try to put anti-seize on their head bolts.
"Anti-Seize on Exhaust Manifold bolts and spark plugs?", would be a better title.
You are of course a free man, and you could apply anti-seize to any part you wish.
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so im gettin a mixed answer some say its worthless (which im assuming they didnt use it either) and some say do it .... i dont kno what to do..but i dont want to remove them and there seized in there so is there anything else i can do or use ?
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It's fine for use on spark plugs. My opinion, keep it off lug nuts, and exhaust manifold bolts. If you use good stainless hardware there shouldn't be any issues of not being able to remove the bolts when the time comes.
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Rookies??? Is it just me or do the head bolts i buy for a LT1 allready have the threads coated with a required product?
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If you are having issues with anti-seize baking off, you need to buy high-temp anti-seize. You should always use anti-seize when putting a steel bolt in aluminum.
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Originally Posted by smoknta
If you are having issues with anti-seize baking off, you need to buy high-temp anti-seize. You should always use anti-seize when putting a steel bolt in aluminum.
Thanks for puttin it clearly and right to the point i will go and buy some high temp anti-seize and do my bolts
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Originally Posted by SELLC
No ZONES89RS you are the only person in this forum who buys brand new factory GM head bolts. The rest of us are too busy putting silicone on our ARP head bolts.
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
HAHHA, dick face, i am running a stock motor(close enough) and i have built 383 LT1 with LE stage III heads and still used the BS bolts you get from the auto parts without any problems...and i did a search threw summit and did not even find any bolt kits for LT1. You know your not supposed to even re-use the stock bolts even on a stock rebuild right?
Try ARP 134-3701 they work for me and you can reuse them!
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
HAHHA, dick face, i am running a stock motor(close enough) and i have built 383 LT1 with LE stage III heads and still used the BS bolts you get from the auto parts without any problems...and i did a search threw summit and did not even find any bolt kits for LT1. You know your not supposed to even re-use the stock bolts even on a stock rebuild right?
All that proves is you are too stupid to realize all you needed was bolts for a small block Chevy.
On the stock bolts the later years are TTY, the early stuff I believe it was OK to reuse once. My GM parts guy sells the stock bolts for $23, covers both heads and has sealer on them, not a bad option for anyone, just frequently dismissed without any thought.
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If you are looking for a high temp anti-sieze, get the copper base anti-sieze, not the nickel base anti-sieze. You will find the nickel base preaty much everywhere, sometimes you have to look for the copper base. I would look for a thread & fastner store in the phone book and call them up, 9 times out of 10 they usually have it there.
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
All that proves is you are too stupid to realize all you needed was bolts for a small block Chevy.
On the stock bolts the later years are TTY, the early stuff I believe it was OK to reuse once. My GM parts guy sells the stock bolts for $23, covers both heads and has sealer on them, not a bad option for anyone, just frequently dismissed without any thought.
On the stock bolts the later years are TTY, the early stuff I believe it was OK to reuse once. My GM parts guy sells the stock bolts for $23, covers both heads and has sealer on them, not a bad option for anyone, just frequently dismissed without any thought.
I was trying to be a little more subtle than you, but then again blunt seems to be more effective on some people.
I know a few guys that run new factory bolts w/o problems and I agree that they are an inexpensive quality option.
Mike